Climbing conditions in New Hampshire

Hi all! I'm wondering if anyone has any solid Intel on the current rock conditions in New Hampshire (specifically rumney, cathedral and Whitehorse) as I'm currently in Ottawa and fed up of all this cold, grey ice. Any help would be appreciated.

9* F here in Chatham this am, 10 miles from Cathedral and Whitehorse. Things are melting during the day, but a lot of snow still on the ground.

South buttress of whitehorse is climbable in places, we successfully did hotter then hell to inferno last Sunday, with only the bottom of pitch two on inferno being wet. The snow conditions were pretty miserable though. Knee deep postholing. Rumney has dry rock in quite a few places from what I hear, main wall being the only place I've climbed at so far. 

Thanks very much for the help! So long as there's climbing to be had I'll still make my way down!

You could come to the Gunks! It's only an hour farther from Ottowa than Whitehorse, and the majority of rock has been climbable for a few weeks now. There are lots of Canadian "refugees" here right now.

I am also trying to head up climbing this weekend! I was wondering about longstack, I know it's southern facing and I feel like it could be promising. Has anybody been there?

The top slabs on Whitehorse are still ice-snow covered; So Butress is probably climbable (see posting above) but still PLENTY of snow on the ground.  Road into Cathedral is impassable with 2-3 ft of compacted snow-ice and with 4 ft or so in the woods. Cannon got 12-18 inches of snow last week, on top of near-record snow from earlier this winter.

 Humphrey's cliff itself (faces due S. East) is pretty snow free...some snow in the woods but melting fast. (approach also faces S East)

This year was sort of "crazy" with the rain-snow line on SEVERAL storms about at the line of the Ossippee  Mtns ( a line roughly 20-30 miles south of the Kanc. Highway.)  North of there there is was near-record snowfall, south of there below average.  

David K wrote: You could come to the Gunks! It's only an hour farther from Ottowa than Whitehorse, and the majority of rock has been climbable for a few weeks now. There are lots of Canadian "refugees" here right now.

id love to go to the gunks! the only issue i have is I'm going as part of a group of three and, whilst i have my roost set deep in ol' british trad climbing, the other two guys have never even placed a nut let alone seen a multi pitch up close...

How is the condition of the Rumney parking lots? With them not being plowed during the shutdown, I would imagine that they are a mess.

Ian Byerley wrote:

id love to go to the gunks! the only issue i have is I'm going as part of a group of three and, whilst i have my roost set deep in ol' british trad climbing, the other two guys have never even placed a nut let alone seen a multi pitch up close...

For some reason this posted as if my buddy had written it! It was me (Jamie) that posted it. Not Ian!

M Sprague wrote: How is the condition of the Rumney parking lots? With them not being plowed during the shutdown, I would imagine that they are a mess.

Ice climbed at the Parking Lot Wall on March 2nd and it was plowed. Haven't been there since then. 

 Be sure nothing, rock or ice, drops on you from above if its a warm sunny day. I always found climbing this time of year can be a sketchy day full dodging stuff that falls from the top of the cliff.

Thanks for all the useful advice! We've decided to make the most of the 9 days we have off and head right down to RRG as the weather and conditions look more of a cert. May aswell hit up the red atleast once!

Plenty of dry stuff scattered around Rumney and the main parking lot is plowed, but there was lots of icefall and rockfall last weekend.   

Weather forecast for Mar 29 - April 1 weekend looks pretty "iffy" for either rock (rain, showers) or ice. (3 days of intense sun this past week on everything except the shaded, north-facing climbs.

Any updates from around this time? 4/8?

Was at Rumney this past weekend. Some stuff was dry all the early season stuff that is usually wet was wet. The approach is muddy and icy and still ice coming down.

Was worth it climbing in the sun but don't expect prime conditions.

snow and sleet today with about an inch of ice pellet accumulation at my house in central VT.

Four inches of wet snow here in Chatham, six miles from Cathedral

The cakewalk wall at Humphreys was great this weekend.... Damn snow. 

Pawtuckaway is in good shape.