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What would you do? All opinions are welcome

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 327
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

I am just helping the climbing community by putting in more lines @ Riding hood wall. Its more than big enough for more than TWO lines. "Detract" from yur badly bolted... (Rap job, no clean up, means the bolts don't "match" the line.) 2011 is when BBW went up. Dan let's bolt up the crag as Mr Kimm & I did the fringe.

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
D Young wrote:
The following is a message exchange that started on Dec 31, 2013. I responded on Jan 7, 2014. This topic was dead for 5 yrs, until I received the "f%$# you" message Jan 29 this year. It is important to note that I've climbed this new route line at least a dozen times on top-rope solo over the last 8 years:

P B, Dec 31, 2013: Hey can u text me @ ur earliest convenience. Regard'n a possible route just left of Big Bad Wolf. Thanks.

Me, Jan 7, 2014: Hi Pete, I don't think there should be any new routes near BBW. I've climbed every inch of that formation on top rope solo, so I doubt you could even claim FA. I also thought more routes there would be cool, but after thinking it over, the 2 lines there are classic, (Physical  Graffiti and BBW) and anything added will detract from the 2 routes there. Others have agreed with me that there shouldn't be any more routes added as well. In addition, the terrain left of BBW is where many, (myself included) rappel from either the top of P3 or the top of P2. I bring clients down that way all the time. It would suck to not be able to do that any more. -Dan

P B, Jan 29, 2019: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116490330/town-dogs-and-coyotes https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/116493280 

What happened to ethics in climbing? What would you do if someone bolted one of your lines? Added a line that closely hugs an existing route? Anything? Nothing? All opinions are welcome.
Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
splitclimber wrote: I know who

Then quite bn #Chicken#%$@ & say already.

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Kentucky Yeet

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Anonymous wrote:

Pete, is that a drawing of the Vitruvian Man? You didn't happen to be on LSD when you drew that, were you?

Copious amounts. :-) 

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Anonymous wrote:

Pete, is that a drawing of the Vitruvian Man? You didn't happen to be on LSD when you drew that, were you?

On my travels I met/lived with a man named ‘Kentucky Pete’. He has a hell of a story. I’m sure he’d make a fantastic guest on your show. Your listeners will lap it up and I’d say many of them would know him or know of him.
I met KP after I hitched a ride up to Red Rocks from Joshua Tree back in October. After an afternoon climbing I was wandering the Calico Basin car park where I saw this gorgeous girl sitting besides her van sewing with this bat-shit-crazy looking old dude sitting with her chatting, I thought “hello, what’s going on here?” I approached, introduced myself and got to talking, straight away I could tell what a larger than life, eccentric, interesting human Kentucky Pete was. In this conversation I mentioned I had just got to Red Rocks and was looking for somewhere to free camp, coming from Joshua Tree where it is a piece of piss to free camp without a vehicle I was hoping to find something similar so I could spend a decent amount of time in Red Rocks, the crazy old bugger smiled and said “well look what the universe has done for us here” he proceeded to give me directions to his camp out in a wash, ‘Camp Broken Arrow’, I spent the better part of a month living in the desert with Kentucky Pete, it was wild, I like to refer to KP as a wizard, it really feels like there’s a magic that surrounds him. He is a crazy, grey haired, sober alcoholic, ex-professor, philosopher and father, in his fifties with a neurological disorder called Mirror Movements along with a deformed spine, no sense of smell and currently homeless living on the outskirts of Red Rock Canyon State Park.
Kentucky Pete grew up in Kentucky, obviously, where he spent a lot of time out doors to escape his home life; he left the state along with its many narrow-minded folk and prejudices at a young age. He found climbing and along with it a gift as a climbing teacher, he eventually worked as a professor of rock climbing at New York University, where he was the first person to give out university credits for climbing. KP would tell me stories of this past life, working with hugely talented climbers, going on trips around the world as a private teacher. He lived as Caesar with the nicest of material possessions, stacks of cash and women in tow. I believe it was a disagreement between colleagues that pushed him to leave the university. KP made his way to Nevada, along with some of his students, he established routes and crags all over Red Rocks, due to his history with Alcoholics Anonymous and their ethos of keeping anonymity he thought it best keep his name off everything, including several articles in ‘Climbing’ magazine published about him.
Eventually his disfigured spine required surgery, multiple, that coupled with divorce left him in a desperate situation forcing him to move out into the desert. This winter is his second out in the wash. He thinks the solution to his current circumstance is to “go loud” verses his old approach of remaining anonymous.
Last winter, his first being displaced, he would do what he referred to as ‘campfire whoring’ where he would walk to the Red Rocks campground and do rounds meeting climbers, during this time, vanlife climbers would often be circling the campground looking for spots, when the sites were full KP started recommending the dirt strip up the road, across from the ‘Red Rock’ sign, it soon became the go-to vanlife spot for Red Rocks, Kentucky Pete affectionately named it ‘Skid row’. He would spend a lot of time there meeting climbers and putting on ‘the Kentucky Pete show’. He is such a character that last season, he managed to gather a large enough following of climbers he’d met on Skid row that they built a mobile home in form of a wooden shack on a trailer but unfortunately before he could move into it, it was impounded and then damaged at the impound lot, small claims court proceedings occurred but he still doesn’t have the ability to free his mobile home.
This season Skid row got shutdown. During my time there I got to see it in full glory, one morning I counted over 40 vehicles parked a long Skid row, it was a good thing, perfect location, close to the climbing/park, close to town, climbers could meet there, sleep there and it was free. Obviously with no facilities it was never meant to be a place to linger, ideally climbers would just sleep there and then head to an area with toilets/water to do their cooking etc. so as not to annoy anyone. Skid row was also used as campground overflow, during peak times when the campground was full people would turn to Skid row, however locals, residents and authority were not on board. After the Thanksgiving holiday period, cops put the shutdown on, because the campground then had available space there was no valid excuse for people to stay on Skid row, citations and fines were given out. This then furthered KP from the climbers, he has to return to his old ways of walking to the campground, although he does have climbers constantly visiting and helping him out.
KP’s mission is to be with his son, Bear, his eight year old son, who currently lives in Vegas with his mother, I have witnessed KP with Bear, most weekends KP visits his son in town but there was a weekend Bear came out to Red Rocks and we went climbing, one of our friends did the pickups/drop-offs to facilitate, I can attest to the fact Kentucky Pete loves his son more than anything.
KP’s M-O is to be “Happy, helpful and humble” he is on a pursuit to return some of the values and ethics he feels the climbing community are losing, he would like to see more cohesion in the climbing world, rather than the growing disconnect climbers have with one another at the crags and camps these days. He wants to gain some form of security, stability and shelter so he can spend more time with his son. He thinks “going loud” will give him the best chance of pulling it off.

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Are you hiring other people to write coherent sentences about you so you don't seem like a c^nt?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Competent Leader, if could you go into that and insert some line breaks, that'd be greaaaaat. M'kay?

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
D Young wrote: The following is a message exchange that started on Dec 31, 2013. I responded on Jan 7, 2014. This topic was dead for 5 yrs, until I received the "f%$# you" message Jan 29 this year. It is important to note that I've climbed this new route line at least a dozen times on top-rope solo over the last 8 years:

P B, Dec 31, 2013: Hey can u text me @ ur earliest convenience. Regard'n a possible route just left of Big Bad Wolf. Thanks.

Me, Jan 7, 2014: Hi Pete, I don't think there should be any new routes near BBW. I've climbed every inch of that formation on top rope solo, so I doubt you could even claim FA. I also thought more routes there would be cool, but after thinking it over, the 2 lines there are classic, (Physical  Graffiti and BBW) and anything added will detract from the 2 routes there. Others have agreed with me that there shouldn't be any more routes added as well. In addition, the terrain left of BBW is where many, (myself included) rappel from either the top of P3 or the top of P2. I bring clients down that way all the time. It would suck to not be able to do that any more. -Dan

P B, Jan 29, 2019: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116490330/town-dogs-and-coyotes https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/116493280 

What happened to ethics in climbing? What would you do if someone bolted one of your lines? Added a line that closely hugs an existing route? Anything? Nothing? All opinions are welcome.

My new lines. Free Solo not rope solo.I'll be "Clesn'un, belayun (a bolter) &.... :-) I wear big girl pantys Dan. U? Put up Huff & Puff with Max. (He needs to learn.)

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

Copious amounts. :-) 

I taught this to Beth, Tommy & Chris when they were in their teens. I AM PROFFESER Kentucky PETE!

Bryan K · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 655
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

I taught this to Beth, Tommy & Chris when they were in their teens. I AM PROFFESER Kentucky PETE!

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
bkozak wrote:

Next ",Black Wall" gets a shit-ton of bolted routes. 8-10 should cover it.

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Christian . wrote: If you don't agree, chop the bolts.  See what happens maybe?

Calico is very important to me.. As is all of RR. I will fix this place, no matter WHO'S EGO try's to stop me.
Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
5.Seven Kevin wrote: This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.

Nope, I free soloed my 1st Route up that wall , so thank u for yur "Armchair advice" but piss off, Fa accent onsite soloed .. So I decide..The " ethics" here are "pullouts -Calico" can be "bolted on Rappel." We dont " Rap bolt ' (we climb & clean then bolt what remains. " Rap... Is just put bolts in on yur way down. Not good.) But hey Buttercup if u wannuh come do sum Fa's in the Canyons with me, we do ground up over there.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

Nope, I free soloed my 1st Route up that wall , so thank u for yur "Armchair advice" but piss off, Fa accent onsite soloed .. So I decide..The " ethics" here are "pullouts -Calico" can be "bolted on Rappel." We dont " Rap bolt ' (we climb & clean then bolt what remains. " Rap... Is just put bolts in on yur way down. Not good.) But hey Buttercup if u wannuh come do sum Fa's in the Canyons with me, we do ground up over there.

if you free soloed your grammar, spelling, and basic comprehension of the English language, you'd have meat-decked a long time ago.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

Nope, I free soloed my 1st Route up that wall , so thank u for yur "Armchair advice" but piss off, Fa accent onsite soloed .. So I decide..The " ethics" here are "pullouts -Calico" can be "bolted on Rappel." We dont " Rap bolt ' (we climb & clean then bolt what remains. " Rap... Is just put bolts in on yur way down. Not good.) But hey Buttercup if u wannuh come do sum Fa's in the Canyons with me, we do ground up over there.

Talk about ego. Jesus dude, your way of doing things aren't the end all just because you are from there and are older than most of the new developers. You should join the state senate and ban rap bolting, otherwise, no one cares about your local, made up, personal, old-school, ego driven, bolting ethics. Developers, if you feel safer rap bolting, do that. BTW, I'd love to see more routes on this wall. Also, if I bought bolts and put in the time to put up a new route and you chopped them, let's just say we'd have words in the lot. That wall does not belong to you. 

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56
Pete Baumgardner wrote:

KP’s M-O is to be “Happy, helpful and humble” he is on a pursuit to return some of the values and ethics he feels the climbing community are losing, he would like to see more cohesion in the climbing world, rather than the growing disconnect climbers have with one another at the crags and camps these days. He wants to gain some form of security, stability and shelter so he can spend more time with his son. He thinks “going loud” will give him the best chance of pulling it off.

The real disconnect is between what KP posts and what is written about him. Doesn't seem like the same "happy, helpful, and humble" person, nor does he convey any sense of security or stability. His posts are a good body of evidence to the contrary. 

Pete Baumgardner · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Ashort wrote:

The real disconnect is between what KP posts and what is written about him. Doesn't seem like the same "happy, helpful, and humble" person, nor does he convey any sense of security or stability. His posts are a good body of evidence to the contrary. 

I am both. I "Mirror Movements" folks. If u meet me I'm either " the greatest thing since sliced bread" or an " EGO basterd." But what people cant seem to understand is THAT I MIRROR YOU! Its like Turrets, can't stop it.

 Ask Michael Kimm... Jessica Sum. (Jessias Wall).. This is pure GENUIS I promise. I'm gunnuh die solo'n soon. I want the climbing community to have this. Thank y'all fur 28 years of meeting THE BEST... AND WORST people in the world... Climbers.
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

I cannot find any literature stating that mirror movement disorder has anything to do with mirroring another person's ego or personality. Do you mean to say you have Echopraxia?

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