Type: Sport, 245 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Max, Kentucky Pete, Bennie and the Jets, A Proenza, Joe Gilette
Page Views: 4,449 total · 1,200/month
Shared By: Max Ryan on Jan 27, 2019 with improvements by Matt M
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Route is still being cleaned. There may be some loose rock

P1 135ft. Delicate moves through the fourth bolt leads to easy but fun moves on the slabby face. Follow bolts to belay ledge on left.

P2 110 ft. Follow the seam on the left before a few moves on good crimps and jugs pulls you over the top.

Walk off or rappel with 70m rope to P2 anchor and then straight off the sheer face to the left of the route.

Location

Start on chokestone 10ft left up of Big Bad Wolf.

Protection

13 draws plus two bolt anchors with rings.

Photos

Pete Baumgardner
Las Vegas, NV
 
Pete Baumgardner   Las Vegas, NV
 
This route needs some cleaning. Jan 28, 2019
Matt M
 
Matt M  
 
Solid route, maybe more 9+. Good alternative if big bad wolf is super crowded. Good variety of movement. 13 bolts for first pitch. second pitch is less. Final part after the last bolt you'll need to easily scramble up and kind of finishes around same level as physical graffiti. You can either rap off or walk off. Jan 30, 2019
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
there's mixed metal on this climb, among other issues. Jan 30, 2019
Since doing BBW several years ago, it was obvious this wall would grow more bolts. Sounds like a good line was chosen. I just hope no future routes get close to the existing lines.

As for the mixed metal and other problems, what are the other problems?

Honestly, the mixed metal (assume its SS hangers with plated bolts) issue is no worse than using plated bolts and hangers. We should not be using plated at this point. We know better! A sub 30 year replacement life is ridiculous when we have far better options. I hope the other issues are at least fixable.

Still psyched to do this line. I am certain the FAs meant well. We all learn as we go. Max is 22. I thank god I didn’t have access to a power drill at 22!

Long live KY Pete! Jan 31, 2019
Pete Baumgardner
Las Vegas, NV
 
Pete Baumgardner   Las Vegas, NV
 
To whom it may concern... There will be A 'Huff & Puff. (The line right of BBW!) I don't bolt. I come after its bolted and just climb the FA. Dan Young please put your Big Girl pantiles on, Please be a part of history. Mar 11, 2019
eli poss
Durango, Co
eli poss   Durango, Co
Pretty poor locations for bolt placement. I was about 6" out of reach to clip bolts from a good stance, which is pretty dumb for a rap bolted route. Mar 11, 2019
Dinger
  5.9
Dinger  
  5.9
In my opinion the hardware used to equip this route is not up to today's standards. I observed mixed metal, an assortment of different non painted hangers, Home Depot plated steel bolts. Mar 11, 2019
Christopher K.
Summerlin, NV
  5.9+
Christopher K.   Summerlin, NV
  5.9+
Finally was able to get out and lead this today with Bill Thiery. While there were 4-5 parties waiting in line to hop on "Big Bad Wolf," we had this all to ourselves. Other than a couple of spots near the top of pitch 1, the route is far enough away from "Big Bad Wolf" to feel like a separate line and not too contrived.

For at least a couple of moves, I thought this route was a little harder than "Big Bad Wolf." I don't know if the ultimate rating is still in limbo pending the thing cleaning all the way up, but the first 25 feet of this route felt harder than "Big Bad Wolf." I don't know if that means it merits a bump in grade, but that's my opinion. The move to stand up fully straight on the ledge about 12 feet off the ground is pretty tough for a tall guy like me. The wall above bulges out steeper than 90 degrees, and I was forced to kinda lock off on a pretty small crimp to make it happen, and the bolt was far enough below that I may have gotten fairly close to the ground with any sort of inattentive belay. Then another move or two above that came the crux, which required some moves several feet above the previous bolt on thin feet and smaller hand holds than you find on most of pitch 1 of "Big Bad Wolf." in addition, these moves are most easily done a bit out to the left of the bolt below, which would result in a little bit of a pendulum fall if it happened.

After getting through those tougher sections, the rest of the climb is cruiser, with hardly any climbing even reaching 5.8. If you're looking for a route with a little bit of a tough section, but cruiser after that, this route is for you.

Make sure to climb with a 70 meter if you rap the line. It just barely reaches both the first belay, and finally down to the ground. Tie knots in the end of your rope.

Overall my impressions are that this route is that it is not quite as fun or engaging as "Big Bad Wolf" but still a worthwhile climb, especially if "Big Bad Wolf" is busy or you just want to try something new. It's a nice addition to the crag. I agree with at least one of the other commenters that there were several places on this route where it felt like the bolt placement was a little weird. I had to pull every relatively difficult move with my most recent clip well below me, since the bolt above was just a bit out of reach. Not the worst thing in the world, but probably not for a brand new 5.9 leader. Mar 19, 2019
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.10a
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.10a
Not quite as fun as Big Bad Wolf but OK. Crux moves are harder and more awkward than BBW, Generally a 5.6 climb with a couple 10a moves getting past the 2nd bolt. Mar 19, 2019
Pete Baumgardner
Las Vegas, NV
 
Pete Baumgardner   Las Vegas, NV
 
Do not wrap this line. Max Fudged up the RAP. That's OK, we planned on sum Rap stations up there... Thank u for your patience while CALICO is under "development". Mar 24, 2019
Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB
  5.9+
Francois Cote   Fredericton, NB
  5.9+
A nice addition to the cliff. Good alternative to BBW since that route is always crowded. Similar quality to BBW as well once it sees some more ascents and the rock gets a little better. Mar 30, 2019
mmacelhi
Gunks
mmacelhi   Gunks
Thought the rock was fine but the view of our group (5.8 to 5.13 leaders, 5'6" to 6'3" heights, 50+ yrs collective experience) was that some of the bolts were in the wrong places at the start. P1 start was fun, didn't bother with P2 since it was easier and pretty similar to the P2 BBW. The strange bolt placements made it a bit more engaging on lead. 5 days ago