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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250

It takes real commitment to stay sweet. In 6000 posts here (almost?) maybe just a few times things got testy. Started to go south. But fast turned around.

Every one of us here is an adult. No one HAS to be nice. But it seems at least in this space the choice has been to keep it high...supportive.  

I haven’t spent much time hunting around to see if there are other ongoing communities with this much diversity and exchange.  It means enough to me that if I step over a line...if my joking starts to sound serious or insulting, call me on it.  And glad to see that this community has gone so far as to reach out and care about good friends who are pissed off, done, or drift away.  

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Tim Lutz wrote: ^ classic millennial spotting: well trimmed beard and man-pri

Yea except not. Trying to bridge two worlds (family/job and nomad). I met him outside bouldering something crazy and felt a kindred spirit. A distinctly fine person, and generous to the core. 

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
Hayden Creek wrote:

Good to know he is ok. Bummer he left MP.

Wendy, what was the book?

The Secret Knowledge of Water by Greg Childs.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Dragon to answer your Question  about pushing the limit and getting injured,  no I have never been injured climbing  routes above my level outdoors.  Falling is part of the game. Nor have I popped my finger tendons or anything like that climbing above my level outside. The only time I’ve ever been injured during climbing was in the gym, which I avoid like the plague(popped finger).

new Route from Friday.
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Gyms have gotten better as far as finger injuries go, imo.

Bigger holds on steeper stuff or slopers etc where tweaking pulleys far less common.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

^^^ Dawn Yawn. lol no thanks As long as you enjoy it it’s all good it’s not for me real rock or nothing,  I live in Southern California you can climb out doors year round there’s no reason to go to the gym ever.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Jeffrey Constine wrote: ^^^ Dawn Yawn. lol no thanks As long as you enjoy it it’s all good it’s not for me real rock or nothing,  I live in Southern California you can climb out doors year round there’s no reason to go to the gym ever.

This rant is not directed at anyone,
& should be seen for what it is
 a poem or a song to what could have never been,
 the only constant is change great things change
Can't keep a great thing down low for long
The secrets out, Change has only started to come
I know this though

Popping fingers, Knees & backs
Sometimes so bad that the injuries are forever
They Keep Coming Back,
ever see a shoulder dislocate
 A leg bone blow thru a foot?
Talking, yucking it up
 instead of tying yer knot,

Its not just that,There is the show-boat thing
Wanna be "I'm a great Climber Look at me"
Peacocks struttin' in the meat market
The Gym is where you find real climbers mixin' in,
showing those who otherwise could never be , how to be

Gym-type  people who can conform & fit in.
Mis-fits & individuals get shunned by the cool clique 
The need to level the playing field,
So much so - though - that in the effort
short strong folks take it on the chin
Unless your name is Lynn

You used to have to get "Jumped in"
Get past the Gumby gate by climbing
The way that It has become a mainstream thing
You have to get along, play nice with others,
 look right, smell right, follow this color tape

 just what I told Ms Hill at her Birthday dinner
Now 30 years ago? & she did not agree
 Plastic pulling will eventually reduce climbing
From my way to survive life
 to everybody's pass-time

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

.

Had to find the strong glasses  put 'em on!  holy smokes!  "The Dudez" in the gym!

 I  eye eey,
 you know its dumping snow here,
it was ice climbing that laid me out
left me to have to do less & start posting up
 losing fitness making a mess of that me.

In the way that an old duffer shakes his fist and yells "get off my lawn"

I know how much fun climbing is and that it keeps us young

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250

Still new but I’m protective over climbing so I can only imagine how you longtimers feel.  My gym is packed. Parking lot full. The place is swarming. I feel overrun with people and wonder, are they all going to be outdoors next?

Hard to hear that Josh sees 4,000,000 visitors every year. I think of it as empty...until it’s not. I want special spots there to stay secret.  Maybe that’s why I also long to trek back to areas I found here in the Sierras, put up a rope where it’s never been before, and keep the route to a small circle. 

Weird no one has a problem with everyone playing baseball.  Or football! But I find I don’t share my outdoor climbing with anyone indoors...

On the other hand... I’m grateful the gym is there. Carl will appreciate this...this week I finally was strong enough to hang from this hold. It had eluded me for a YEAR.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Good one Sub lol!Went to a gym in Japan
Did not climb.

Just belayed lol Had to pass the belay test, NOT...My Ex Wifes Gym. She is in the middle good ole Fumie!
dragons · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 958
Jeffrey Constine wrote: ^^^ Dawn Yawn. lol no thanks As long as you enjoy it it’s all good it’s not for me real rock or nothing,  I live in Southern California you can climb out doors year round there’s no reason to go to the gym ever.

Well Jeff, approximately 90% of the population of the US does not live in CA (fortunately for you, otherwise those vacant walls you're climbing would be as packed as the Gunks). I'd guess about 70% of the population of the US would be unable to climb at all during the winter if it weren't for climbing gyms. I'm a big fan of climbing gyms, especially as they seem to be getting better as the sport is becoming more popular. You are very fortunate to be able to climb outdoors all year round, I hope you realize that. The rest of us use our stiff upper lips to climb up plastic. It builds character.

As I've mentioned, I have injured myself climbing outdoors above my grade (zero popped finger tendons thought, maybe because I'm so light). There are people who have died outdoors climbing below their grade. My point is that gyms are not the bogeyman. Overtraining can be very bad for you, if you are not genetically wired for it, though. For most people, it's easier to overtrain in gyms. They should be used with care.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250

I've resisted with this post... and I know it was the focus of another thread... but it's in my face today.  Can you be a climber, in a relationship with a non-climber?  
I would think the answer would be 'yes'... if you had other similar interests.  What if non-climber is not an outdoor guy?  

I've just left a relationship with a guy who thought he loved my free spirit and climbing.  But when it came down to it, he wanted to know when I would be done.   "Are you going AGAIN?"  He did come with me many times... such a great sport.  But I was aware that this wasn't his thing.  (But he also didn't have a 'thing').  And soon enough he felt completely left out, angry, pissed off... and I sat out many weekends at home, just to be 'here'.  

I didn't realize how much of my life is now outdoors.  Not just climbing... hiking, roaming, skiing... or just sitting in nature.   

The question was asked to me today... by new sorta flame... "Will there be room in your life for me? Where do I stand?"  Do you want someone who will love you above all else... can you put some of these other things aside?  

Breakin' my heart.  

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Lori Milas wrote: I've resisted with this post... and I know it was the focus of another thread... but it's in my face today.  Can you be a climber, in a relationship with a non-climber?  
I would think the answer would be 'yes'... if you had other similar interests.  What if non-climber is not an outdoor guy?  ...
The question was asked to me today... by new sorta flame... "Will there be room in your life for me? Where do I stand?"  Do you want someone who will love you above all else... can you put some of these other things aside?  

I don't think it's about the climbing.

My sense of you is that you're in a place of well-earned and long-deferred paying attention to what matters for YOU. You've raised kids, built a business, been married, gotten divorced, buried a child, tons of living. Now you want to focus on something that brings you visceral, intense joy. And you should. You've done plenty for other people.

Ultimately you can find a partner or playmate who isn't needy and who shares (or has a similar) passion for the things that bring you passion. But don't kid yourself that if someone new is already trying to get you to change your stripes that it's going to work out long term.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Señor Arroz wrote:

I don't think it's about the climbing.

My sense of you is that you're in a place of well-earned and long-deferred paying attention to what matters for YOU. You've raised kids, built a business, been married, gotten divorced, buried a child, tons of living. Now you want to focus on something that brings you visceral, intense joy. And you should. You've done plenty for other people.

Ultimately you can find a partner or playmate who isn't needy and who shares (or has a similar) passion for the things that bring you passion. But don't kid yourself that if someone new is already trying to get you to change your stripes that it's going to work out long term.

<<<tears>>>
thank you. 

Hayden Creek · · Wind Clan · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

My wife is not a climber. We do share other passions though.

32 years ago she accepted me for who I am and has never been negative about my climbing. Which I do alot of. She has always supported my need to pursue this aspect of my life. Even my soloing. I have always done the same for her. We both know it would not work otherwise.

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

I second Senor. It's not so much about climbing vs. nonclimbing, but asking "can you put some of those other things aside?" 

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

Back in our scuba diving days I had a male friend who needed a scuba partner, another sport where it's important to have a partner.  A 58 year old lady who was new to scuba answered the partner post, coincidentally her name was Laurie.  They mixed like oil and water, could barely stand each other and made horrible scuba partners.  My male buddy developed some life problems and quit diving.  Laurie became a regular on the boat.

Laurie had trouble with relationships because she was too active. Work, travel, scuba, kayaking, sailing, clubs, kids, etc.  Always on the go. She brought a couple of friends diving but they never lasted, to hot, to cold, too much sun, couldn't match her time underwater, seas to rough, we heard lots of excuses, the best one was I need to take a nap everyday.

She eventually met a school teacher that wanted to get back into diving, he was divorced with two college age daughters.  One of the few people I have met that is easier going than I am.  They developed a romance, they both kept their own houses, they have taken world trips together, dive together frequently, and travel together.  Barb and I politely declined when they invited us to their favorite nudist camp.   They have what I call a mature relationship, they enjoy things together that they can, they both recognize that their are other responsibilities that need to be attended to, they will probably never marry.

This little story to encourage you to be patient and not get anxious about having a relationship.  Go do the things that you love to do, while you are doing that, you will find someone who likes to share the activity(s) and does not have an agenda.

Carl Schneider · · Mount Torrens, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Lori Milas wrote: Still new but I’m protective over climbing so I can only imagine how you longtimers feel.  My gym is packed. Parking lot full. The place is swarming. I feel overrun with people and wonder, are they all going to be outdoors next?

Hard to hear that Josh sees 4,000,000 visitors every year. I think of it as empty...until it’s not. I want special spots there to stay secret.  Maybe that’s why I also long to trek back to areas I found here in the Sierras, put up a rope where it’s never been before, and keep the route to a small circle.

Weird no one has a problem with everyone playing baseball.  Or football! But I find I don’t share my outdoor climbing with anyone indoors...

On the other hand... I’m grateful the gym is there. Carl will appreciate this...this week I finally was strong enough to hang from this hold. It had eluded me for a YEAR.

Oh cool!  BTW you really should come down here.  Even though things are getting busier here with climbing too it not as mad as it sounds over there.  You can still go to great places like The Grampians and Mount Arapiles and sometimes either be there all by yourself or with very few people.  I guess in ten years if the planet pasts that long we'll be like you guys, all over run with hoards of young gym junky whipper snappers who wear fucking 'smart' 'fit bit' watches when they climb!!

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Carl Schneider wrote:

Oh cool!  BTW you really should come down here.  Even though things are getting busier here with climbing too it not as mad as it sounds over there.  You can still go to great places like The Grampians and Mount Arapiles and sometimes either be there all by yourself or with very few people.  I guess in ten years if the planet pasts that long we'll be like you guys, all over run with hoards of young gym junky whipper snappers who wear fucking 'smart' 'fit bit' watches when they climb!!

Yea but, Carl... isn't this a spectacular handhold?  I mean... I DID IT!  I have now mastered every hold and pinch on that board... for some reason this one was the hardest.  (Who else asks for pictures of a handhold?  I realize this is a little overboard.) 

As for Australia... I would love to go there.  Your continent has always fascinated me.  Will we see some kangaroos?  What else....?

EDIT:  Carl... I realize that New Zealand is not Australia... but do you have anything like the Haka there?  Jason Mamoa did one, too... not sure I want this at my wedding, but maybe... and it could be helpful before a big climb!  

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Lori Milas wrote:

<<>>
thank you. 

I've been thinking I need another year or so to run wild and free before I can even guess what I am up to.  I would have said "feral" but someone here would get ideas, get his shotgun, and next thing you know John would be posting a photograph of another stew... with the quote "Who's in this?"  


BTW... not fair to post a pic of a salad, and not disclose what it is.  We were all guessing.  Inquiring minds... 

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083
Lori Milas wrote:

I've been thinking I need another year or so to run wild and free before I can even guess what I am up to.  I would have said "feral" but someone here would get ideas, get his shotgun, and next thing you know John would be posting a photograph of another stew... with the quote "Who's in this?"  


BTW... not fair to post a pic of a salad, and not disclose what it is.  We were all guessing.  Inquiring minds... 

I posted a salad?  

As for the climber/non-climber relationship......tell him sure, then keep doing what you do. My (non-climber, non-hunter, anti-dirtbike) wife and I have made it work for 26 years. We're both honest about who/what we are and seek balance in our life together.

One key factor is having the ability to take pleasure in the other's enjoyment of what they like, and to do things together.

An old Okie proverb says "You don't have to like shoe shopping if you can take pleasure in watching someone you love do it."

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