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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5


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rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Version #4 locked after 1000 replies, so here we go with number 5.

It isn't clear that having this under "Southern California" is the best location.

Given that we are starting on the fifth of these, isn't it time for MP to just give this its own heading and stop the nonsense of continually creating new 1000-post threads?  (Or maybe not if that would bring out the trolls...)

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 588
California is the center of the universe for climbing in USA you cannot beat Yosemite! 
Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15

Tim Schafstall wrote:Those are so cool.  We were sitting at Miguel's Pizza at the Red River Gorge last September (located on a main road) and the lineman were using one of those to, I presume, flip some type of connector in the line, which was easily 30 feet in the air.

Tim

I forgot that I cut mine down to about 16 feet. For 32 feet long the bottom base is very large in diameter. Need to pick up a Squid for it this year.

Working on framing walls today and then cut 0.3 inch plywood for walls.

Fully extended (after it was cut down). This is on an angle due to wind blowing it over trying to take a picture.



Fully retracted. Little over 5 ft and very light weight.


John
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,719
Lori Milas · 1 day ago · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175I wanted to share a simple hand exercise that seems to be helping my sore fingers.  I haven't bought the rice bucket yet (per Esther Smith), but this has really helped to reverse stretch out my fingers and make them much less sore. 
 (That's not my stomach.  Mine is more buff.    )
The uncooked rice, a rehab trick, (allows an even warmth in the microwave) - but is for soft (weaker) hands.
Particularly for a climbers' hands, Clean sand, It can come from the beach, or from a lawn*Garden store bag.
The idea being that by adding water or Hydrogen Peroxide & water, (if your hands need the cleansing)                    
 you can change the resistance a little at a time until you are ready to build muscle.  

Google:  "Handmaster Plus"
Bands only mimic what works, The work you need is to work both flexors at the same time
wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
rgold wrote: Version #4 locked after 1000 replies, so here we go with number 5.

It isn't clear that having this under "Southern California" is the best location.

Given that we are starting on the fifth of these, isn't it time for MP to just give this its own heading and stop the nonsense of continually creating new 1000-post threads?  (Or maybe not if that would bring out the trolls...)

And exempt this thread from the too-frequent post lock-out rule. (My suggestion is to let OPs decide whether they want the rule applied.) 

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181
Oldtradguy wroteNeed to pick up a Squid for it this year.
John

I like the Superclip.  Not only can I clip the first reachable bolt but I can also remove the quickdraw in the event of an epic fail. 

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 622
"Another fun doohickey for short people is the Kong Panic.  Saw a lady with one at COR last fall.  Verdict is still out as to whether it's a good thing or a bad thing.  I know the real answer is not more crap to carry, it's just getting stronger."

One answer is that all sport route developers would bolt their routes so that most-sized people (not just those taller than 5'10") could clip the bolt BEFORE doing the crux.  But due to the nature of the rock or climb, that is not always possible.  Further, some early route developers were not that sensitive to reach issues.  I have a homemade extender that I've used for 30 plus years and it's a godsend for those out of reach clips.
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 873
rgold wrote: Version #4 locked after 1000 replies, so here we go with number 5.

It isn't clear that having this under "Southern California" is the best location.

Given that we are starting on the fifth of these, isn't it time for MP to just give this its own heading and stop the nonsense of continually creating new 1000-post threads?  (Or maybe not if that would bring out the trolls...)

Sir? I am about to flag this! With a request to Nick to consider our plea. And Nick? Thank you, so much.

Best, Helen

EDIT to add: the text of my flag comment

Please see rgolds post, if it didn't copy over. These threads are pretty exceptional for MP, and (perhaps?) deserving of their own subforum. I would also suggest the same banner at the top as for the women's forum, although I expect we are quite capable of self policing! Thanks so much!
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 873

All? I have a homemade stick clip, which sorta suffices. I also have a super clip, but no pole yet. Apparently my local Home Depot, Lowe's, etc carry different stock from the time some of you bought your poles, as all I can find are ones that go about 12'. What I'd really like is one that I can get broken down or collapsed to less than five feet. Hauling a pole taller than I am is a pain, when I'm scrambling, and really could use both hands. 12' is also a little on the short side, but none of the poles I can find locally will allow an additional pole to be screwed on.

As for bolting being oblivious to shorter climbers, that's pretty much all of my available stuff, lol! Its almost all from BITD, and Tony Yaniro class folks on top of it. Which means lower grades are warmups for strong climbers.....and....interesting, for the rest of us.

I just wish I wasn't having to clean anchors while hanging. Just above a ledge. Pretty much rules out leading some of the stuff. An extra move (or two) past the last stance, is just too much risk.

Best, Helen

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 873
Jaren Watson wrote:

I think most mp’ers are aware of the thread, though it really should have its own heading.

I wonder if you are all aware how many people who, like me, don’t make the cutoff, but enjoy reading nonetheless.
I’ll delete this comment soon. Sorry for interloping.

Jaren, friends are always welcome at the campfire. :-)

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 145

Following. Hi everyone!

SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

When I sport climb I love my stick clip. I use a Trango Beta Stick Evo. Collapses very small and fairly light yet extends to 12 feet.

https://www.trango.com/p-352-beta-stick-evo.aspx​​​

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10
Dallas R wrote:

I like the Superclip.  Not only can I clip the first reachable bolt but I can also remove the quickdraw in the event of an epic fail. 

Remove the the quickclip ?? That might be cheating, a failure should cost you a little something beside a dent to your ego.

Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
Dallas R wrote:

I like the Superclip.  Not only can I clip the first reachable bolt but I can also remove the quickdraw in the event of an epic fail. 

Dallas

Thanks for letting me know about the Superclip. I alsdo watched the Youtube video.

John
Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
Jeffrey Constine wrote:
California is the center of the universe for climbing in USA you cannot beat Yosemite! 

Jeffrey

We have also climbed in CA a couple of times at Jtree, Lovers Leap, Pie Shop, 90 Wall, Lone Pine and Tuolumne. Tuolumne always has the prettiest scenery. 

Here is a picture of my wife standing by Bud Lake on our way to climb Matthes Crest years ago.


John
Doug Elkins · · Northern NH · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Long time lurker here, about time I broke the ice with an intro.  I’m 63, started climbing about 9 months ago, knew right away I was hooked. Joined a local gym last May, working my way up SLOWLY and steadily while soaking up as much info as possible.  This site has been a huge help just reading through the archives and this particular group of threads (2k  and counting!) has gotten me past wondering if starting climbing at this tender age was bordering on lunacy.

To date, Ive only climbed outdoors a dozen times or so, a mix of TR and sport (6s.7s and 8s) which has only left me wanting more. Some nice climbing in our White Mts, but a shorter season than I would like and my business has kept me indoors during weekdays. Will be building in some flex time this coming season to get in at least one midweek day to avoid the crowds! Really looking forward to more days on rock, but also feel fortunate to have a decent local gym for practice and conditioning.

Have been struggling a bit with a couple sore fingers as of late. I was just looking into the rice bucket, like the idea of modifying with sand. Will be heading to Home Depot this weekend to get set up.  Thanks for the suggestion!

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181
beensandbagged wrote:

Remove the the quickclip ?? That might be cheating, a failure should cost you a little something beside a dent to your ego.

Oh it does.  But there are some climbs that I can't even get to the first bolt on.  It's fun to try, and as someone mentioned above it's a learning experience.  

As far as paying for my failures, I have a high standard for this.  You will not find any cheap old biners or cheaper sketchy quick links when I bail.  You will find a shiny new BD ovals, the last batch was the black ones.  
dragons · · MWV, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 666
Doug Elkins wrote: forward to more days on rock, but also feel fortunate to have a decent local gym for practice and conditioning.
Doug, you're in "Northern NH"? Mind saying which gym you're going to? The closest one to us is 1 hour and 20 minutes away.
Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

Kinda crazy to be working towards 6000 posts. I remember that first tentative “help!” post of mine and someone saying “Helen will be here any time now.”  It would be fun to go back and reread those first few hundred posts that were SO supportive and informative. Of course BY FAR Jeffrey has been the biggest talker, and goes on and on and hopefully will learn to use less words.   

Often lately I’ve heard the words “Lori, it’s the INTERNET!” as if to say, these are not real friendships and acquaintances. I guess MP is not known for its soft and friendly side? (Why? I’d like to know). But maybe this is just an exceptional, classy and stoked group of committed climbers.  And I worry and think about a lot of the people here who’ve shared so much of themselves.

BTW I believe this is the 6th iteration of this thread because there was the errant “New and Experienced Cimbers Over 51” that garnered 1000 posts before returning to the current numbering system. 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 588
As the crag turns lol
John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,084
Lori Milas wrote:“New and Experienced Cimbers Over 51” that garnered 1000 posts before John invented the current numbering system. 

Fixed it for you Lori.....I call it "The Barritt method" but I couldn't have done it without y'all.... 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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