New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5

You guys must be rich!

You got a mustard packet! We had to use tree sap bitd!

:P

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: You guys must be rich!

You got a mustard packet! We had to use tree sap bitd!

:P

I know, right & Chalk? We made do with spit & dirt, ah mud, makes one smile just to remember the ok old ways

Solid Gold is all that.

Figures On a Landscape; The 1st pitch ending with a traverse(?)
 & has a 2nd pitch that was to die for, ~I can't remember it -only that,  someone has to lead it  (or not but its shame not to tick it)__B^7__

Jeffrey Constine wrote:Healyje, The place is an old Quarry in Japan, this wall is devoted to Dry tooling. So get over it.

Doesn't look like quarried stone.

Healyje wrote: Doesn't look like quarried stone.

It is. I've been there too. Near Kamakura IIRC?

Healyje  you must not get out of the country much  it may do you some good you don’t need to climb to have fun traveling ole man

Takatoriyama Park Yokohama  Kanagawa  Prefecture

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Takatoriyama Park Yokohama  Kanagawa  Prefecture

Yea, Kamakura is right over the hill. I've been there. Lived in Tokyo for 2 years. Sandstone quarry.

Makuiwa is the climbing area near Kamakura where the first 5.12 put up in Japan called Spider Man, put up by my friend Akiiko Oiwa owner of the Big Rock gyms in Tokyo.  I lived in Japan for almost 4 years.

I wonder how everyone here is doing... and WHAT you're all doing?  

I'm trying to get my head together on upcoming trip in March.  Besides the anchors class, there are just long days of pure climbing.  

In considering potential routes, I've bumped into one of my conundrums... when asked what I want to climb, it's all the routes I've almost touched in the past, routes that were long and fun and sometimes scary, routes right where I left off last time... and they are all routes on top rope.  Quite seriously, beginning lead routes would have to be like... Bunny Slope routes.     The very, VERY beginning... nothing tall or hard or remotely dangerous.   

Today I realize maybe my solution is "e"... some of each.  I would hate to miss some great opportunities on top rope.  I'm wondering for you established climbers how you made the transition... was it just one day a total change from top rope to trad/sport/lead climbs?   Or do you still do some of each?  Is it all about leading? (because maybe I enjoy 'climbing' more than leading... don't know.)

Maybe this just shows how new I still am... I never think of my top rope climbs as easy, or safe, or 'less than'.  I think of some recent climbs as hard, difficult climbs, mentally draining sometimes, requiring so many different skill sets at my absolute limit.  I really enjoy that.  So... how do we blend the two?  
-----------------------------

With the enforced week off at PW, I decided to see if I could work on slab work somehow.  I had to sit and stare at the walls for a spell before I could see it: on our various 'slab' walls... THERE are the tiny divets and crimpy fingerholds to play on, if only you improvise.  I can almost recreate a difficult slab climb, with enough work.  I have spent hours on these walls this week, hands-free... working on tiny footwork, edging, and even kinda friction.     I'd really like to get to Josh and not have to try to recall the basics of slab climbing all over again.

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Healyje  you must not get out of the country much  it may do you some good you don’t need to climb to have fun traveling ole man

I worked all over Asia including Japan for a decade and occasionally spent time in Japan in the military before that as well. Have to admit, Japan wouldn't be my first choice of places to live. So lack of travel's not really an issue or the issue which was that rock not looking quarried.

Put up a new route yesterday it was really nice bluebird day

Ohhh no! Just noticed there was nothing on April's calendar.  Too early to start east.  Kind of done with skiing.  Too chilly for more northern destinations.  Boulder, CO? Last year was probably pretty good, long term forecast says it's gonna stay pretty cool.  Wait, this IS the SoCal section.  Let's see, Breckinridge to LA only about 1000 miles and we could hit St. George and RR on the way.  Now where in SoCal could a couple of weak senior citizens go climb in SoCal?  Alabama Hills? Haven't been there before.

Nothing happening. Giving my arms a rest. Working. Yawn.

If you come to So Cal I will make sure you go climbing at a nice place with no crowds 

Lori Milas wrote:...Today I realize maybe my solution is "e"... some of each.  I would hate to miss some great opportunities on top rope.  I'm wondering for you established climbers how you made the transition... was it just one day a total change from top rope to trad/sport/lead climbs?   Or do you still do some of each?  Is it all about leading? (because maybe I enjoy 'climbing' more than leading... don't know.)...

I never made a full transition as such, I still do it all.  I very often top rope just to work endurance (i.e. do a lot of laps), I also will top rope a route someone else has led but I feel it's too hard for me to lead.  I'll trad lead routes that have good pro and which I feel are within my grade (I don't push myself very hard on trad as I'm yet to fall on my own gear).  I'll sports lead a route that I know I can do or where, if I fall, I'll still be safe.

Dallas R wrote: Ohhh no! Just noticed there was nothing on April's calendar.  Too early to start east.  Kind of done with skiing.  Too chilly for more northern destinations.  Boulder, CO? Last year was probably pretty good, long term forecast says it's gonna stay pretty cool.  Wait, this IS the SoCal section.  Let's see, Breckinridge to LA only about 1000 miles and we could hit St. George and RR on the way.  Now where in SoCal could a couple of weak senior citizens go climb in SoCal?  Alabama Hills? Haven't been there before.

Dallas, I've been trying to decide if I am willing to drive all the way back to So. Cal. for a retreat in Alhambra April 12-14.  If you were going to be anywhere in the So. Cal area around that time, it would tip the scales in that direction.  Let me know if your plans start to firm up for a trip to LA.   

Healyje wrote: Doesn't look like quarried stone.

Healy has spoken.  The truth is now known.

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

Put up a new route yesterday it was really nice bluebird day

Grade? 

Lori... my advice- go to josh. Start out on very simple climbs (5.0) try not to fall or take- ever! Find your grade, the one you are completely solid on on TR. then pick something much easier- if it has protection, then lead that! Do not even think about Solid Gold or Figures! Build on solid success and not what looks cool in GB photos. First things first. 

Dallas. I think you would love A-Hills.... Park that bad boy, let us know you want to BBQ and Party ... you never know who would show up! 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Grade? 

Lori... my advice- go to josh. Start out on very simple climbs (5.0) try not to fall or take- ever! Find your grade, the one you are completely solid on on TR. then pick something much easier- if it has protection, then lead that! Do not even think about Solid Gold or Figures! Build on solid success and not what looks cool in GB photos. First things first. 

Guy, thanks.  I think you have confirmed "e"... learn to lead on very simple stuff (I call the Bunny Slope).  But surely I can dance my heart out on top rope, whatever is at my climbing limit, right? (Solid Gold and Figures is not at my climbing limit.   But here and there I have pulled off a 10a... and in more vertical climbs, a 9.  )  
Will be doing some of both... 

Meanwhile, back at the farm, I'm really discouraged today.  Learning on the ground is ridiculous.  I don't think it's Alzheimers   ... but trying to pre-learn knots and anchors prior to a hands on class is tough. Three months ago I learned, memorized and actually practiced, the rigging for a rappel.  Meaning, I set it up and rappelled last time I was in Josh.  Today... BLANK.  Nothing.  I remember none of it.  This time, I'm going to write down my steps, one by one.  

It must be that the only way (for me) to really learn and get this in my soul is to be out, climbing, using it, all the time.  Revisiting instructions every few months is going nowhere.  So, maybe I will have to abandon my day job (panting hopefully   ) and go live in the great outdoors for a spell.