Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

Patrick Miller wroteI placed this wave Bolt about 7 years ago.  Epcon A7 glue with plated steel home Depot quick links. It's in direct sunlight and gets alot of water run off.
  I'm not a fan of the Home Depot links for just this reason. I usually only use SS link, but they are expensive and for whatever reason I only had these at the time. After getting some SS  links I sent out to clean and replace. Just a  little rubbing  with scotch bright it cleaned up pretty good. Not sure how much longer it would have took to pit the steel, but bolt is smooth,clean and strong.
  So just a heads up on mixing metals. If you've had to use plated against SS  your stainless will rust. But I think most of you know this. Happy bolting out there. 

Thanks for posting this.  I've long suspected the PS QLs would cause this issue with glue ins but didn't have a long enough time frame location for proof.  Your pics confirm my suspicions that the contact area between QL and Bolt hold water (capillary action?) and rust occurs.  FYI - My favorite "clean up" product is Barkeepers Friend. The oxalic acid does a nice job of re-passivating the surface of the SS.  I've had good luck cleaning up SS hangers with similar corrosion from PS bolts. 

Patrick Miller wrote:

I placed this wave Bolt about 7 years ago.  Epcon A7 glue with plated steel home Depot quick links. It's in direct sunlight and gets alot of water run off.
  I'm not a fan of the Home Depot links for just this reason. I usually only use SS link, but they are expensive and for whatever reason I only had these at the time. After getting some SS  links I sent out to clean and replace. Just a  little rubbing  with scotch bright it cleaned up pretty good. Not sure how much longer it would have took to pit the steel, but bolt is smooth,clean and strong.
  So just a heads up on mixing metals. If you've had to use plated against SS  your stainless will rust. But I think most of you know this. Happy bolting out there. 

Nice to see that the Scotch Brite cleaned it right up. Thanks for posting!

The stainless is not rusting due to contact with the PS Link.

That is why the stain is relatively easy to remove.

Stainless hangers that have bee in contact with PS bolts for 20 to 30 years are stained but otherwise not damaged in normal US environments.

Stainless effected by SCC turns black not rust colored.

Timothy Fisher wrote: The stainless is not rusting due to contact with the PS Link.

That is why the stain is relatively easy to remove.

Stainless hangers that have bee in contact with PS bolts for 20 to 30 years are stained but otherwise not damaged in normal US environments.

Stainless effected by SCC turns black not rust colored.

Thank you for saying this 1st.... the bolt is still STAIN-less. With a wire brush

Too cold to rock climb this weekend in Lander, but it made for great bolt replacing temps. Went hole for hole on some of these and had good luck with the Hurley Jr. Thanks to CWCA and BARF (Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund) for the hardware as always. BARF is responsible for every stainless 1/2" bolt you clip in the Lander area. 

The new: https://team-tough.com/product/twisted-wire-glue-in-6mm-x-80mm/ & painted Petzl steel Djinn draw.The old: Lok bolt style crap.
The old mank. Several of the wedge bolts were bent from years of falls. Dogbones were all 15+ years old...

Those dogs look fine...I'll find them a home lol.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Those dogs look fine...I'll find them a home lol.

They weren't the worst I've seen, but might as well do the work cleaning up these things while you're up there. Replaced them with camo'ed permadraws.

Didn’t get a before photo, but you can tell these Fixe glue-ins are in reused holes by the streaks the old zinc plated bolts had created

Drew Nevius wrote: Didn’t get a before photo, but you can tell these Fixe glue-ins are in reused holes by the streaks the old zinc plated bolts had created

Nice one Drew. I've always been told that the streaks are due to the black lichen dying. The yellow rock is the exposed face. It would be cool to check on these in 5 years to see if the black lichen has came back in?

Yeah, it would. Check back here in 5?

I was actually just thinking I might ought to try nylon brushing it to see if there’s any material left on that rock in the streak that could be cleaned off to make the streak less obvious

Drew Nevius wrote: Didn’t get a before photo, but you can tell these Fixe glue-ins are in reused holes by the streaks the old zinc plated bolts had created

Is this set up rope twisty because of the gap? 

Drew Nevius wrote: Yeah, it would. Check back here in 5?

I was actually just thinking I might ought to try nylon brushing it to see if there’s any material left on that rock in the streak that could be cleaned off to make the streak less obvious

Well I think the streak is caused by an absence of biological material, so there's nothing there. What I meant by check back in 5, was check back to see if the lichen grew back in over the yellow rock.

Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Nice one Drew. I've always been told that the streaks are due to the black lichen dying. The yellow rock is the exposed face. It would be cool to check on these in 5 years to see if the black lichen has came back in?

I think I have heard of placing zinc on the top of your roof to prevent moss from growing. So same concept probably. Neat.

Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

Is this set up rope twisty because of the gap? 

This route is short enough that for one lower at the end of a session, the twist isn’t a huge issue. If it were, rapping rather than lowering would help. I’m sure toproping a bunch through this might cause a lot of twist, but that’s kind of a benefit so people will opt to TR on their own gear like two draws that will bring the two points closer together

Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Well I think the streak is caused by an absence of biological material, so there's nothing there. What I meant by check back in 5, was check back to see if the lichen grew back in over the yellow rock.

Yeah, that makes sense but I wonder if there’s anything left on the rock that would hinder lichen growth. Might be interesting to brush one streak and not the other and give it a couple years to see if there’s any difference in lichen growth

dnoB ekiM wrote: This setup has been recently released into the wild.  A high wearing mussy on top and a captive steel biner below.  I am certain if I left a non-captive steel locker it would be stolen.  I have been vertically staggering anchor bolts for  awhile but have previously extended the mussy on the top with a chain to align side by side with a mussy on the bottom.  The visual impact here is greatly reduced as is overall complexity.  

With help from Dave Quinn and Jim Titt at Team Tough and Bolt products I have put together an anchor, based on dnoB ekiM's version of the "french" style anchor, that I am pretty excited about "releasing into the wild" when the snow finally melts. 

 

Notice the large eye to facilitate easy set of a personal anchor and/or going in direct.
Cost:
SS Large Eye 8mm x 150mm Twist bolt $6.00
SS Large eye Eye 8mm x 150mm Twist bolt with SS captive eye carabiner $17.00
SS Pigtail $7.56
Total with glue will be about $33 if you do not get a bulk discount.
 

As mentioned before, keep in mind how much distance you have between the bolts in both the x axis and the z axis as you don't want their combined distances to exceed the length of the carabiner or you might get rope twisting. Of course, I know the cardboard box is set up is not to scale, but just something to keep in mind for readers who might be interested in the kind of setup.

And thanks again for setting up the bulk order with team tough as well as for being a good steward for your local crag. 

Thanks Eli,
Definitely a consideration. Ideally the rope would not be tensioned on the lower carabiner only on the ramshorn/pigtail. 

To add to Eli’s comment,I have found with my setup that the closer the lower bolt is to inline with the top bolt.. the better.  I actually had to resort to using a more traditional set-up in my first use.  

Yours will be more tolerant as the biner is more free to move.  In my case, the captive pin interacts with the hanger too easily if the bolts are very much off axis at all.  

Look forward to hearing how yours works and what can be done better.

Thanks for the inspiration and the feedback Mike.