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Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE


Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 446
Drew Nevius wrote: Didn’t get a before photo, but you can tell these Fixe glue-ins are in reused holes by the streaks the old zinc plated bolts had created

Is this set up rope twisty because of the gap? 

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446
Drew Nevius wrote: Yeah, it would. Check back here in 5?

I was actually just thinking I might ought to try nylon brushing it to see if there’s any material left on that rock in the streak that could be cleaned off to make the streak less obvious

Well I think the streak is caused by an absence of biological material, so there's nothing there. What I meant by check back in 5, was check back to see if the lichen grew back in over the yellow rock.

Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 446
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Nice one Drew. I've always been told that the streaks are due to the black lichen dying. The yellow rock is the exposed face. It would be cool to check on these in 5 years to see if the black lichen has came back in?

I think I have heard of placing zinc on the top of your roof to prevent moss from growing. So same concept probably. Neat.

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

Is this set up rope twisty because of the gap? 

This route is short enough that for one lower at the end of a session, the twist isn’t a huge issue. If it were, rapping rather than lowering would help. I’m sure toproping a bunch through this might cause a lot of twist, but that’s kind of a benefit so people will opt to TR on their own gear like two draws that will bring the two points closer together

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Well I think the streak is caused by an absence of biological material, so there's nothing there. What I meant by check back in 5, was check back to see if the lichen grew back in over the yellow rock.

Yeah, that makes sense but I wonder if there’s anything left on the rock that would hinder lichen growth. Might be interesting to brush one streak and not the other and give it a couple years to see if there’s any difference in lichen growth

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 819
dnoB ekiM wrote: This setup has been recently released into the wild.  A high wearing mussy on top and a captive steel biner below.  I am certain if I left a non-captive steel locker it would be stolen.  I have been vertically staggering anchor bolts for  awhile but have previously extended the mussy on the top with a chain to align side by side with a mussy on the bottom.  The visual impact here is greatly reduced as is overall complexity.  

With help from Dave Quinn and Jim Titt at Team Tough and Bolt products I have put together an anchor, based on dnoB ekiM's version of the "french" style anchor, that I am pretty excited about "releasing into the wild" when the snow finally melts. 

 Notice the large eye to facilitate easy set of a personal anchor and/or going in direct.
Cost:
SS Large Eye 8mm x 150mm Twist bolt $6.00
SS Large eye Eye 8mm x 150mm Twist bolt with SS captive eye carabiner $17.00
SS Pigtail $7.56
Total with glue will be about $33 if you do not get a bulk discount.
 
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523

As mentioned before, keep in mind how much distance you have between the bolts in both the x axis and the z axis as you don't want their combined distances to exceed the length of the carabiner or you might get rope twisting. Of course, I know the cardboard box is set up is not to scale, but just something to keep in mind for readers who might be interested in the kind of setup.

And thanks again for setting up the bulk order with team tough as well as for being a good steward for your local crag. 

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 819

Thanks Eli,
Definitely a consideration. Ideally the rope would not be tensioned on the lower carabiner only on the ramshorn/pigtail. 

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,115

To add to Eli’s comment,I have found with my setup that the closer the lower bolt is to inline with the top bolt.. the better.  I actually had to resort to using a more traditional set-up in my first use.  

Yours will be more tolerant as the biner is more free to move.  In my case, the captive pin interacts with the hanger too easily if the bolts are very much off axis at all.  

Look forward to hearing how yours works and what can be done better.

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 819

Thanks for the inspiration and the feedback Mike. 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
dnoB ekiM wrote: To add to Eli’s comment,I have found with my setup that the closer the lower bolt is to inline with the top bolt.. the better.  I actually had to resort to using a more traditional set-up in my first use.  

Yours will be more tolerant as the biner is more free to move.  In my case, the captive pin interacts with the hanger too easily if the bolts are very much off axis at all.  

Look forward to hearing how yours works and what can be done better.

Personally I prefer to put a chain-link between so it´s all more flexible, this one is with a 12mm chain link below for threading through.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523

Got out again today to replace some bolts that didn't look too bad before winter but now looked worse. I know they're both 3/8" PS so they would have to get replaced someday so I figured I might as well replace them now with some SS 1/2".

Here's what it was 


Here's what it is now
Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 819

Nice work Eli,
I was also lucky enough to get out today. Among other things I pulled some split shafts with SMC hangers. (See photos) I was amused that one of the anchors that I replaced had both the "bad" and the "good" SMC hangers.



eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523

Nice job dude! Even if it doesn't have the safety issues of the older version, the "good" smc hangers are still kinda crappy hangers. They're too small and still kind of on the thin side so it gouges you're biners more than modern hangers. Are those glue-ins wave bolts or titt bolts?

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 819

Thanks. The new hardware are 1/2 but 4 inch Titt bolts.
I was unpleasantly surprised with how easy it was to remove the bolts attached to the SMC hangers. I have had a harder time getting 16 penny nails out of pine than those split shafts out of granite. 

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,446

Hope ya'll have been collecting your chips for the coming season! Remember to take pictures!

Ed Henicle · · Santa Rosa, CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,360

Fixe 12mm SS bolts, ClimbTech 3/8 SS links, ClimbTech PS hooks, Dewalt AC100+ glue. Lead, lower, go.
bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,165

 

ShitchYea!
Fran M · · Germany · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

An anchor in the Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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