Mountain Project Logo

Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Yeah I really hate that too.

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5,785

That guy did just fine. His gear was solid. So what if he grabbed a couple of cams.
Now that constant "clipping" / "clipped" thing needs to go.....

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Mark O'Neal wrote: That guy did just fine. His gear was solid. So what if he grabbed a couple of cams.
Now that constant "clipping" / "clipped" thing needs to go.....

You are all way to judgmental, new to climbing or not ready to try to teach the best/ safest practices.
 Choosing a straight forward trade route to demonstrate the standard operating procedure. is the standard operating procedure.

In my opinion, You are not comprehending what you are seeing.
 When one has someone who is new to the activity, or not familiar with the way that you do things ~  ~ talking it out, DEMONSTRATING THE PRACTICES & METHODS is the correct way to proceed.
 belaying, when in clear view, it may seem like over-kill, but that sort of redundancy is a teaching method.  You want to convey in real time, what is the correct procedure, what you are seeing & criticizing is the correct way ~ this is how it is done.
With the belayer  standing at the base saying what you are doing  at every action,  instills the action & timing so that when the lead climber is not in sight of the belay- climber's the mind will have the experience to relate to,&  to understand what may be occurring with the lead climber and what is going on when the leading climber is out of sight.
describing and demonstrating the action in real time is a practice recognized as good teaching technique.

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

Tan B · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 20
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

Both

Jared Casper · · Scotts Valley, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10
Caleb Schwarz wrote: Community poll? Is this a place to post exclusively shakey GoPro footage of sketchy shenanigans?

Or might one post very low quality climbing films?

I've been enjoying the trend of people posting videos that new trad leaders could possibly learn something from.  Along the lines of "what not to do" videos. 

Posting videos that are just low quality or bad/shaky videos that one wouldn't be able to identify things that they themselves shouldn't be doing seems kinda lame. What's the point? Just to point and laugh?

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

 Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,113
Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic

Trad climbing is holding your placed cam while you look for that damn sling. Pure.

JRZane · · Jersey · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 95

Skyline was one of my most favorite climbs at CoR. Def a pretty mild 8 with the exception of the traverse move until you realize that your feet won't slip.

at 4:45 "its fine here."

no. it's not.

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,487

I think the taping of kneecaps is genius. Finally, a use for my leftover pasties from my raving days!

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 823

Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them. 

It's cool that modern cams can be placed straight out instead of in the direction of pull.  Gotta get me some.

Also, he was somewhat off route for the last 1/3.  There's a crack the whole way up.  

Glad I never got a Gopro to document my mishaps. 

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337
zoso wrote: Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them.

I kept wondering if he even had nuts to place until he mentioned them after dropping his micro-cams.  

There is another video of the same route that is only marginally better, with a lot of the same fiddling with what look to be marginal cam placements right next to what looks to be a bomber slot for a nut.  I learned pretty early on with trad that I will take a nut over a small cam in pretty much any situation where a good nut is to be found.   

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 293
Dr Strangelove wrote:

 Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling. Classic

Jesus fucking christ that placement at 4:45

Jordan Duncan · · Norwalk, OH · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 20
zoso wrote: Did he place a single nut?  That route eats them.  

It was all I could do to keep from screaming at the screen at 15:00. 

Rob Jarvis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 150
Ross Goldberg wrote:

Jesus fucking christ that placement at 4:45

is it tipped out?  or bad spot for a cam?

Brian Cooper · · Northern California · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 369
Daniel Roberts wrote:

is it tipped out?  or bad spot for a cam?

It's tipped out and placed straight into the crack (not at all in the direction of pull). Almost all of the cam placements in this video are straight in. This guy was basically free soloing without knowing it. He probably could have gotten a safe placement in that particular spot by rotating the cam downwards, although it might have been real difficult to get out afterwards since the trigger would be blocked.

Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 96
JRZane wrote: at 4:45 "its fine here."

no. it's not.

haha yeah that was my thought!  "Its fine here" totally umbrellaed.  Almost afraid to watch the rest given the panic breathing so far on the jug haul.  I've been on 5.6s in Eldo that make that look like a ladder.


Watched the rest, wow he didn't even notice when he dropped the gear.  I also loved also the part where he calls down that hes at the chains while several moves below the chains then climbs above the chains so he can reach down and clip into the anchor with a single non-locker on some dynema just to make sure if he does an almost 2 factor slip he can maximize the impact. That anchor at the end also looked like a mess.  Fun times!

dullah m · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Here's a gem. Multiple dropped cams, sketchy pro, clipping the thumb loop, hand jam blindness, strange commentary...positioning himself for a factor 2 onto a dynex sling.

Call and raise dangly cams, one too many "KEEP ME TIGHT BRAH"s, an amazing "I have entered the crack", worlds best anchor dismantling at 12:09, and an unexpected surprise at 19:00.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Tan B wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icFU69OHeJo&t=459s
Not sure if this one has been posted yet, but it's a gem.

Nothing says “insecure climbing” like gold #2s!

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

This thread has got to be one of the great MP threads of all time. Walking the fine line of educational, hilarious, cringeworthy, and a touch mean spirited. Perhaps the distilled essence of the MP Forums.

Did the climber in the sugarloaf video make a bullet proof vest out of a climbing guide book?!  19:00 is the paydirt on that clip for sure  

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.