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Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here


Jim Jam · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 267
Ross Goldberg wrote:

The Debnick Brothers do the Nose....................in 15 days

Harding's record will be beat for longest attempt of the nose
Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Ross Goldberg wrote:

The Debnick Brothers do the Nose....................in 15 days

With very high spirits!

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0


Runout not spicy enough for you? Try holding one cam in each hand for a little added flavor (@3:45).
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25
Abdullah Mourad wrote:


Runout not spicy enough for you? Try holding one cam in each hand for a little added flavor (@3:45).

What a gem.  Watched all 3 of them.  This one has it all.  

Grasping for holds like a blind teenager getting his first grope on prom night all while spraying what a "ladder" the climb is:  Check.
Running it out past perfect placements then cramming a cam in perpendicular to the rock and near the end of its range:  Check.
Inability to manipulate pro with one hand:  Check.
Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 546

Clip the pin, clip the pin, clip the.. omg does he not see it? Good he grabbed it, definitely gonna clip it now. Wait...he’s just climbing past it...weird. Getting pretty run out now. Oh good another pin! Clip the pin, clip the pin...

Ross Goldberg · · San Luis Obispo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 42
Adam Block wrote: Clip the pin, clip the pin, clip the.. omg does he not see it? Good he grabbed it, definitely gonna clip it now. Wait...he’s just climbing past it...weird. Getting pretty run out now. Oh good another pin! Clip the pin, clip the pin...

Best part is one move after the shit .1 placement there’s another piton before the beached whale move 

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 431

Before this thread I would have never realized that letting a noob add small cams to his/her rack could make them less safe. But these guys grab a red X4 at REI and suddenly it's the only piece they want to place.

Jeff Scheuerell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,731

Not sure whether to shit myself or puke first

JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 90

I wasn't going to chime in, but on the youtube description it says something to the effect of "the beach whale move isn't required if 5.7 is well below your climbing limit."  I guess he was feeling pretty good about the climb.

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Since those of us who are n00bs should be learning from these videos, I'll try to make this a bit more constructive (something I should have done w/my initial post).

The worrisome thing to me after watching Corrugation Corner and Surrealistic Pillar videos is that despite the fact that he is clearly not 100% comfortable with the climbing or with placing gear (something we've all been through) he consistently runs it out quite a bit leading to some potentially disastrous circumstances if he slips. On numerous occasions he runs it out bypassing really good placement opportunities and when it comes time to place the gear he fumbles between 2 or 3 pieces before he makes his placement. Add in the fact that he is leading every single pitch on these climbs, which I'm assuming means he is the more experienced of the duo, means this could get real bad real fast. Additionally, I saw at least one traverse in his videos that his second would have had a real bad time on if he fell. On more than one occasion he makes a placement, clips in, starts to climb above it and THEN attempts to move the cam to a better placement. This means he wasn't confident in the placement to begin with. The fact that he keeps talking about what a ladder the climb is makes me wonder how much hubris is involved and how much "just run it out, brah" mentality is affecting the climbing.

One thing I was taught and I'm still working to implement was to climb "placement to placement". From your current stance, spot your next gear placement, suss out your moves and climb to that placement, place the gear and repeat.

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Abdullah Mourad wrote:


Runout not spicy enough for you? Try holding one cam in each hand for a little added flavor (@3:45).

OMG I nearly died of cringe on that one ><

Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 130
Abdullah Mourad wrote:


Runout not spicy enough for you? Try holding one cam in each hand for a little added flavor (@3:45).

Everyone knows that any piece smaller than your index finger is not worth placing 

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

My favorite part is when he tells the other dude at the anchor:

"Cool, I mean, I was trying to finangle the .1, its uh a little more confidence-inspiring than the like 30' runout I have here"

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250

I also like the convo with the other guy at the belay.

"Hey is there room for me up there [on the gigantic ledge with the big crack]?"

Instant answer: NO.

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,615
SethG wrote: I also like the convo with the other guy at the belay.

"Hey is there room for me up there [on the gigantic ledge with the big crack]?"

Instant answer: NO.

Yea. I was thinking well tough shit here I come any way!

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Mark O'Neal wrote:

Yea. I was thinking well tough shit here I come any way!

Nah I'd go for the 'confuse the fuck outta him' approach and be like "Okay it's cool. We were gonna bivy here anyway"

Jordan Duncan · · Norwalk, OH · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 48

Not the worst thing I've seen but I don't know that I'd go climbing with this belayer..


Tan B · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 10
Jordan Duncan wrote: Not the worst thing I've seen but I don't know that I'd go climbing with this belayer..



He does seem very very new. Probably why the leader is only doing 5.7 with him belaying.
Dude was standing back from the wall like it was booby trapped.
Also, it seems like this a video from Apex Ex Guides out of Boulder.
David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137

Yeah, the video seems like the climber is instructing the belayer on how to lead. I am not too suprised to hear that the climber might be a guide.

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 320
Tan B wrote: He does seem very very new. Probably why the leader is only doing 5.7 with him belaying.
Dude was standing back from the wall like it was booby trapped.
Also, it seems like this a video from Apex Ex Guides out of Boulder.

It’s actually a 5.5, Twofers Gully.  Not I,Robot as he said.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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