New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5

Tom Hickmann wrote:

I will take that deal! Happy to lead both of those! And since I live here, I don't even need the couch.

There you go Lori, climbing at Smith in May w/Tom, Dallas and Barb....

Edit to add: Helen in there too.....just saw that post.

Dallas R wrote:

Jeffrey, if you make it there the best dinner we can kind find if you will ropegun Voyage of the Cow Dog and/or Wherever I May Roam.  A couple of classics we have not done.  Barb should be able to clean climb following, I will probably have to embarrass everyone and break out the ascenders on the cruxes.

 
 

I will vouch for the quality of Dallas and Barb’s dinners! Not an offer anyone should miss out on - plus they are super fun to climb with and far more proficient than they admit to here. 

Food for setting routes lol 

500$ dinner sounds about right 

FYI. The echidna, aka the "spiny anteater", is an Australian mammal. This is an echidna:

(photo by Gunjan Pandey CC BY-SA 4.0)

This is a hedgehog, native to Europe (photo by Gibe, CC BY-SA 3.0):

Porcupines are rodents, found everywhere except perhaps Australia. These are porcupines:
(photo by Mattnad CC BY-SA 3.0)

Carry on.

Lori Milas wrote:  I was really overcome by the many mistakes I have made both indoors and outside--so many awkward, clumsy moves... and the many times i didn't have the muscle, or the grace, to send a climb.  It seems the hardest lesson for me in this endeavor is to accept what is... let that be enough.  Every single climb is so enjoyable and so full of life... or could be, if ego wasn't in the way.

Words to live by.
,
Thanks for the kind words Erika.

$500 Jeffrey?  How about surf and turf by the fire pit, baked potato and creamed spinach? 

dragons wrote:

Stick to climbing people......

One of my worst fears is climbing a treestand in the dark and finding a 30lb porcupine already in it.... ;)

Never hang stands on porcupine trees....just sayin'
 
True story, I told my son how to get to a treestand he'd never been to one day. (He was about 19, home from college on break) I told him to follow a trail to a clearing, across the clearing he'd see a porcupine tree, the stand was 30' to the south of it.

He says what? I thought it was pretty clear.....a porcupine tree. You know a tree missing a lot of bark on the upper limbs.....sticks out like a sore thumb......

He goes ohhhhh....That's what that means.....

He'd been listening to a band (Porcupine tree) for several years......Lol.....good music btw......

Dallas R wrote: Words to live by.
,
Thanks for the kind words Erika.

$500 Jeffrey?  How about surf and turf by the fire pit, baked potato and creamed spinach? 

I think Jeff would have to eat 5lbs of wagyu to get his $500 worth at that Japanese steak house.... ;)

The food is so small I can't even see it in the selfie. Somebody is getting ripped off....#Nawmean

If I was in Oregon I'd lead that 3 pitch 5.8 for a good meal over a thimble full of whatever at that restaurant any day!

John Barritt wrote:

Stick to climbing people......

One of my worst fears is climbing a treestand in the dark and finding a 30lb porcupine already in it.... ;)

Never hang stands on porcupine trees....just sayin'
 

Yup.  Done that.  Dawn came and there was Mr. P, about 4 branches up.  We coexisted for a few hours so I guess he had nowhere to go.

First branch was 80 feet up 247 feet tall 

Dallas R wrote: Fun in learning.  We went to a different "sister" gym to the one we have been attending.  It's fun to see the variances between the two.  The Millcreek gym has lots of overhanging wall.  The Sandy gym has a lot of vertical wall with very mild overhangs.  So how to make up the difference in grading...  The Millcreek gym has a lot of crimping holds for the overhangs.  The Sandy gym has a lot of underclings.  Barb jumped a 10a with a palming undercling, that was interesting.  Once I got Barb to keep here arms straight then stand up she did good.  She was strong enough that when she stepped up on her feet she could free one hand and reach the next hold.  I did the step up, but fell when I reached for the next hold.  And again.  And again.  I went back to my 5.9's.

Note to self; when you go into a new gym and you see the guy setting routes is about 6' 7" it doesn't bode well for the 5'5" climber. But it was interesting to watch Barb get creative in reaching the next hold.

Dallas

We used to climb with a friend that was 6 ft 9 in. No one could keep up with him walking but he was a very slow climber. I have an old scanned picture of him with my wife, Jean, who is 5 ft almost 3 in.

Good thing he never set routes.

John

OMG... we've gone seriously off the rails.  Are there ANY more porcupine or anteater photos that need to be posted on this climbing site?  (I am very surprised that 'someone' hasn't posted a selfie, climbing, with a porcupine in tow.   )  

If I can just for a moment digress... into utter darkness, I've been working through a book called The Self-Coached Climber, and really feeling some despair when I think of how difficult climbing still is for me. (except the parts I really like, like slab)  But I guess that's the way I roll, and it's time to get back in the saddle.  For the thousandth time, it's just hard to feel caught up... and for all the work, I still have spindly arms and pretty useless fingers.  

At times like this it helps to remember the incredible high that comes with climbing outdoors on real rock.... and Bob's constant reminder that in part, skill and strength are just about volume... hours spent climbing.  Bob is also a big fan of indoor gyms, which is surprising... because at least at J Tree the first rule is "Get that gym card off your harness."     Definitely not cool.  The body will take care of itself, getting stronger in all the ways needed.    

I see a ray of hope here for some winter training---in ways that are measurable so you can actually see progress... and maybe it's something some others here might be on board with as well.  Towards the end of the book there is a thorough 'self assessment' which includes a route pyramid (one for indoor climbing, one for outdoor--and also, if you boulder, a separate assessment for that), It includes all the climbs and levels you have done in the last year, wall angle, hold type, length of climb (in feet), the grade, etc.  It also includes your likes and dislikes, fears, warmup processes, etc.  It's an all-round assessment of where you are at with your climbing and fitness TODAY.   

And then it moves on to "Your Personalized Training Plan".  There is lengthy discussion on aerobic and anaerobic training, how to increase each, and on strength and power. It helps create a plan to address your general weaknesses, and to move towards more skill, strength and fitness.  

It helps to have a plan.  As obviously, without said plan, we lapse into discussions of porcupines.  My plan is to work on the self-assessment and see if I can work on some goals by March, and then May... see how that feels when we are once again outside climbing.    

Dallas R wrote: Words to live by.
,
Thanks for the kind words Erika.

$500 Jeffrey?  How about surf and turf by the fire pit, baked potato and creamed spinach? 

My offer stands, and I am a lot cheaper. Happily lead both of those, and I will even carry the rope! Except I am not much of a cream spinach fan. I like spinach, just not creamed. In fact, a good six pack of local beer would more than suffice.

Lori. You should get Training for Climbing by Eric Horst. In it you will find a very good self awareness test. It will show you your strengths and weakness- for whatever level you are climbing at. He then gives one realistic goals and different prescriptions to help you improve- bit by bit.
Climbing outside in May! Don’t wait that log. Heck you live in California! We can climb 365 days/year. Tollhouse rock down by Fresno will be warm and sunny as soon as it starts to hit 60 during the day. (That’s now by the way)Yosemite is good as soon as the storms let up on us. - give it a few weeks. All sorts of places where we go now - during the winter - become way to hot even in spring time to climb the south facing stuff.  By May it is the time to hit the Mts. Think Fresno Dome- long easy stuff! Many good guides work out of the Oakhurst area, some are on MP- use them. And you can hook up with guides who work Yosemite. Just do this and you will see what we really have in California. I mean you survived Winter Storm climbing in Josh the rest is gravy.
Be well 

Guy Keesee wrote: Lori. You should get Training for Climbing by Eric Horst. In it you will find a very good self awareness test. It will show you your strengths and weakness- for whatever level you are climbing at. He then gives one realistic goals and different prescriptions to help you improve- bit by bit.
Climbing outside in May! Don’t wait that log. Heck you live in California! We can climb 365 days/year. Tollhouse rock down by Fresno will be warm and sunny as soon as it starts to hit 60 during the day. (That’s now by the way)Yosemite is good as soon as the storms let up on us. - give it a few weeks. All sorts of places where we go now - during the winter - become way to hot even in spring time to climb the south facing stuff.  By May it is the time to hit the Mts. Think Fresno Dome- long easy stuff! Many good guides work out of the Oakhurst area, some are on MP- use them. And you can hook up with guides who work Yosemite. Just do this and you will see what we really have in California. I mean you survived Winter Storm climbing in Josh the rest is gravy.
Be well 

Guy! I’m not waiting until May. I’m tentatively working on another trip to J Tree in March and then to Smith in May...and then everything in between.  Maybe you could help me plan some shorter trips?  I would really appreciate any suggestions (I realize you just gave me some and thank you!) 

Btw, isn’t there a little town a couple of hours south of Sacramento...sort of an historical town with trains towards Fresno that has good climbing? Why can’t I think of the name...I’ll work on it.  
I’m still not clear whether it’s worth my time to go to Lovers Leap yet? Sounds like gorgeous but more difficult multi pitch climbs. But it is close...
And then there’s the Black Wall that I really want a piece of...  as soon as the snow melts in Truckee.  Beautiful rock. 
EDIT:  Jamestown. That’s the town. 

The echidna made me breakfast at his place this morning.... :-)

Lori? Finger rolls. Use really light weights, to start. Roll all the way to the tips of your fingers, roll back up, into a tight grip. Do them every day, several times a day (in theory). As you progress and can do more reps, the weight can be increased.

I'm on 25 now, at some point there will be no more weight added, just reps or sets. This is a 20 I bought, to have at work (so I can sneak these in during the day).

As with all things hands, go slow, easy, cautious, and back off if they bother you.

I don't do weighted crimpy things at the gym. Somehow, those are much harder on my hands than outside. Even then, I try to have the hand doing that carefully set, ready to go, then get through that quickly with as little weight as possible. So far, so good!

https://youtu.be/I_ve-8477so

Forgot to add, all the way to finger tips, I can't do that while turning out to show the up and down. Just arms straight down, palms toward body. Not out, that was just attempting to show what was going on.

Best, Helen

After lurking on this thread for quite some time it's about time I joined in. I'd love to be included in any sort of "mature" climber get together at Smith this spring.

I got the climbing bug really early in life and did my first leads at Smith about 1975.  I climbed extensively through the early 90's then sort of got away from it as other interests/responsibilities took over. Last year I got the bug again so started refreshing my gear/knowledge and doing bi-weekly trips to the Columns in Eugene to see if I still had what it takes. I'm still not sure :) I've always hated indoor climbing but have reluctantly joined the local bouldering gym and am surprised to find I'm enjoying it.  

Anyway, this spring I'd like to repeat the 5.7-8-9 climbs I did in my youth to get my head back in to leading.  I'm happy to take the pointy end for anyone who cares to follow. 

@Lori a couple of minor climbing areas you may want to check out are Pinnacles National Monument at 250 miles and Dinosaur Rock near Carson City at 120 miles.  Neither of these are places you plan to visit for vacation destination but they both have some decent climbing.  

@Tom I promise no cream spinach, maybe sautéed with bacon pieces?  And a six pack of local beer, that is a 5.12+ challenge, remember we have been there and know that there is a local microbrewery on every corner.  So to fulfill that request I will need an approximate specific gravity, IBU, % of alcohol, then you must further break your request down into specific types of beer and probably sup-types, IPA, APA, pilsner, lager, ale, pale ale, stout,  porter; or like my dad always told me: "I never met a beer I didn't like!".  A lot of what we cook is dependent on our campsite, so we will just have to make final decisions when we get there.

OldTradGuy, the tall persons name wasn't Fritz Fritz was it?  Fritz was around 6' 6".  It was really cool to watch him climb. He would reach up, and reach up, and reach up to grab a hold, often skipping one to two normal people holds, then the long slow process of pulling him self up.  He reminded me of a video of a sloth climbing a tree.  

While I don't see very many porcupines any more we do see quite a few skunks.  Barb grew up on the beach and didn't get to do much camping, so when we first started taking the babies on tent camping trips it took a while to educate her on some stuff, like skunks.  When we checked in the ranger told us there had been some skunks hanging around the campground put food stuff in containers and close all tent flaps.  And of course we had to walk to the bathroom. So I gave her flashlight and told her that if she comes across a skunk to remain calm, they don't automatically spray you, back a away slowly, and no matter what don't scream.  30 seconds after she starts up the bathroom trail in the dark I hear a blood curdling scream, Barb found a skunk.  Fortunately it had been hanging around the campground long enough to know a woman screaming at it in the dark wasn't a real threat.  

@Russ, thanks for the info on Black Rocks, that will be better for us than Chuckwalla.  Now that we are making a list of things to take on the trip we started looking at Thousand Pints of Lite in Snow Canyon.  Last time we attempted that we got to intersection rock on top of Wills Rush but mistook Mack's Rush for Thousand Pints and balked at the lack of protection, plus it was getting late in the afternoon so just rapped out from intersection rock. So many places to climb so little time. 

 Pinnacles national park or monument is really good  climbed many times there good easy routes and hard. Funky anchor lol  on the monolith there is a trashcan handle bolted to the top of the rock.

Dallas R wrote:@Tom I promise no cream spinach, maybe sautéed with bacon pieces?  And a six pack of local beer, that is a 5.12+ challenge, remember we have been there and know that there is a local microbrewery on every corner.  So to fulfill that request I will need an approximate specific gravity, IBU, % of alcohol, then you must further break your request down into specific types of beer and probably sup-types, IPA, APA, pilsner, lager, ale, pale ale, stout,  porter; or like my dad always told me: "I never met a beer I didn't like!".  A lot of what we cook is dependent on our campsite, so we will just have to make final decisions when we get there.

Spinach sauteed with bacon! I am in! As for beer, you do know the scene here. 60+ IBU, alcohol between 6 and 7 percent, color preference is Amber to red. No pilsners or lagers. Current favorites RPM by Boneyard, Gimme Mo by GoodLife, Fresh Haze and Red Chair by Deschutes. The list is actually much longer, but all worthy. As far as 5.12 goes.... hmmmm that is a Jeffery pay off and your back to the $500 dinner. But I can point to the 5.12s. 

I didn’t dare bring this up during all the cute animal discussion because we might never have come back...but chuckwallas are my new favorite animal. And I invented a climbing move called “The Chuckwalla” which is a way of staying steady inside a chimney...if you can imagine taking a very deep breath and expanding greatly.  I want credit for my discovery in future climbing books, too.

So does it seem like Smith could be an actual thing in May?  Seriously?  Like the virtual campfire could be a real one soon? Can we get a possible head count?