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Tough slab areas in North America

Stan McKnight · · AZ · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 261

To bolt or not to be 

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

Hall of mirrors - Yosemite
Someone your not - sucide rock

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,531

Little Cottonwood Canyon in sweaty July temps might give you a thrill. Dorsal Fin in a rain storm maybe. 

Woodson · · Park City, Ut. · Joined May 2009 · Points: 180
bus driver wrote: Little Cottonwood Canyon in sweaty July temps might give you a thrill. Dorsal Fin in a rain storm maybe. 

+1 Little Cottonwood. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105864139/intensive-care-slab

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106061743/nob-job

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739587/the-fin 

Plenty of hard slab there. Probably .13+ on the 11’s in the rain or mid June-August ;)
wes calkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 491
sourisse wrote:

Thanks. I know NC routes have a reputation for being sandbagged, but even factoring in a grade or two, it doesn't seem like these are within the difficulty range I'm asking for in constraint #1. I'll check out the area if I'm ever there though, sometimes some stuff isn't on Mountain Project...

This may be what you're looking for. IN NC. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106957494/live-at-leads


If thats not what youre trying to find then also look at cedar rock in NC.

James Willis · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined May 2013 · Points: 165

Cochise Stronghold in Arizona has plenty of slab. There's a handful of 12/+ slab pitches and surely potential for many more. 

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 9,325

You could go here in winter and spring when it is not raining.  There is some tough slab here as hard as 11 (old school).  You could add a 13 w/o crowding.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106775078/dry-falls
.

Kyle Smith · · Southern Nevada · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 2,258

Childhood's End at Big Rock Candy Mountain

is a serious 5.12 multipitch slab climb. Some other climbs on that formation probably include hard slabs as well. South Platte in general probably has some other hard slabs, I know there is at least one or two 5.12 slabs at Turkey Rocks in the South Platte of Colorado.

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,531

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106908345/interrogator

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,531
Here’s the 12+ and harder routes in LCC.

Probably most are cracks or overhung but there may be something there for you. I for one would love to hear of your exploits in the area. There’s probably 100 13+ slab routes waiting to be equipped in the area.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
https://youtu.be/TBRviO-If9k

https://youtu.be/D1JSX79xq6Q​​​

You may try contacting this guy via YouTube. He's one of the best slab climbers in the world, from what I've gathered. He may know about some hidden gems.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35

There's a ton of 5.13 granite slab in California waiting for FA. Most people can't climb slab that difficult so lots of potential. Not just
Yosemite either. So many granite domes here, but you might have to do a little searching to find that perfect one, but like I said, there are a lot of them and many with immaculately smooth slab sections. You could spend the rest of your life putting up 5.13 slab FA on Sierra Nevada granite domes

Mark Rolofson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,186
KyleSmith wrote:
Childhood's End at Big Rock Candy Mountain is a serious 5.12 multipitch slab climb. Some other climbs on that formation probably include hard slabs as well. South Platte in general probably has some other hard slabs, I know there is at least one or two 5.12 slabs at Turkey Rocks in the South Platte of Colorado.

The harder climbing on this route doesn't qualify as slab climbing.  The .12a crux pitch 7 is vertical.  The next pitch 8 (.10d) is near vertical & pretty featured with holds.  Most of the rock is not slick.  The only section that qualifies is the .11a traverse on pitch 3.  The Apron in Yosemite is slick, especially the Hall Of Mirrors.  I don't think I would want to climb there now after the big rock slides.  I did climb there a fair bit in the late 70s & early 80s.  Hall Of Mirrors is so slick that you don't dare use chalk, because your feet won't stick to chalked spots.  

There are numerous slabs in the South Platte Region & Mueller State Park (West Rock & Four Mile Dome) with friction moves or tiny dime edges.  Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah  has a lot of slab climbing. Get on "Razor Hein Stick" (.12c) or Sick Puppy in Boulder Canyon for hard slabs.   

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

This is something where you are just going to have to put up your own routes

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 3,031

Squamish has a good concentration of hard slab climbs - the free variation to the grand wall has a 5.13 slab crux. A lot of the hard slab routes aren't on mountain project.

https://gripped.com/news/jacob-cook-sends-new-5-13d-slab-squamish/

sourisse · · Canmore, AB · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 180
Stan McKnight wrote: To bolt or not to be 

Is this really a slab? I've only seen pictures of it face-on, so it's hard to tell the angle. Regardless, it would certainly be neat to try someday.

Stan McKnight · · AZ · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 261
sourisse wrote:

Is this really a slab? I've only seen pictures of it face-on, so it's hard to tell the angle. Regardless, it would certainly be neat to try someday.

I haven’t been there myself but I saw a video where some professional climber described it as a slightly less than vertical blank slab that looks like if you turned an asphalt parking lot on its side 

Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 2,178
sourisse wrote:

Is this really a slab? I've only seen pictures of it face-on, so it's hard to tell the angle. Regardless, it would certainly be neat to try someday.

To Bolt is as vertical as vertical gets. Like looking up at the side of a building, a perfect wall. So, it's "slabby" relative to modern standards.

Jeromy Markee · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 726

Darrington, Washington

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Boundless amounts of slab in Darrington but no known routes at that grade. Im sure one could FA tons of routes if dedicated to the pursuit.

Happy to provide belay anytime! Love to see something like that.

Cheers!
M. Hanna

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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