easy to moderate high sierra route this summer

looking to do an easy/moderate sierra route this summer. 5.6 - 5.8 range.   my short list right now is:  east face or buttress of whitney, Swiss Arete on Sill, North Arete on Bear Creek, Venusian Blind or Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag

any other recommendations of routes in that wheelhouse?  i'll most likely be going with a guide who will obviously have recommendations.  i've done whitney in winter via mountaineers route so i have been to that area.  so far from my reading i am leaning towards temple crag...it just looks so beautiful.

thanks for any input.

Matthes Crest in Tuolomne is an astonishingly good day out with something like a half-a mile of tehnical terrain up to about 5.8!

Peter Lewis wrote: Matthes Crest in Tuolomne is an astonishingly good day out with something like a half-a mile of tehnical terrain up to about 5.8!

thank you.  this looks like an AWESOME climb.  Unfortunately Tuolomne is not on my list.  I did Cathedral Peak there a few months ago and loved it.  I mostly climb in the Gunks leading about 5.6 following to about 5.8.  That being said I am still cutting my teeth on alpine and I'd like to go with a guide.  YMG will guide Tuloumne but they will not let you lead, at all.  I have been out with AAI and a specific guide and he will let me lead, but can't guide in the park.  If I can't lead at least part of the climb I don't want to do it.  So I am sticking with staying outside the park.  That being said you have definitely just added something to my tick list for the future as my skills develop :)

Peter Lewis wrote: Matthes Crest in Tuolomne is an astonishingly good day out with something like a half-a mile of tehnical terrain up to about 5.8!

5.7*

Charlotte Dome (South Face), Saber Ridge (Traverse), Mt. Conness ( West or North Ridge), Lone Pine Peak (north ridge),

Have not done this yet but it’s on my radar for this season. Check it out. The backbone, ellery ridge area lee vining.

Sorry didn’t read the whole post. Why don’t you just work this out with your chosen guide. Seems more logical. 

Ken G wrote: Sorry didn’t read the whole post. Why don’t you just work this out with your chosen guide. Seems more logical. 

absolutely.  but the trip is not going to be for a bunch of months - he would be open to many things appropriate so just trying to get some ideas and look around while I wait :)  I am not sure if they can guide in Kings Canyon but if they can the suggestion above for Charlotte Dome which I assume means this:  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105803532/south-face  looks stupendous.  Truthfully all of these climbs look awesome - the whole location is so breathtaking its hard to do anything "bad".

do Charlotte Dome if you can.  With a guide, I'd be looking at the longer, more complicated climbs like Temple Crag or Clyde Minaret, or slightly more difficult climbs like Goode or Russell.  But you wouldn't be disappointed with Whitney, Bear Creek Spire and Sill.

The Swiss Arete on Sill might be a disappointment, especially guided. It's a big approach (north fork or south fork) for only a few pitches of climbing. All the other suggestions are great.

master gumby wrote:

5.7*

The way we went there was definitely a 5.8 offwidthything. But we well could have been off the easiest line. Whatever the grade, it's definitely 5.wonderful!

Charolette dome is incredible. You might not be disappointed even if you bailed on the climb because the hike in (from the east, where folks get that amazing shot of that “ramp”, at least) is so so good.

The climb itself is fantastic as well - good variety with crack climbing, slab, some spicy runouts (one of which is protected by the most perfect #2 sized pocket), and the furrows pitch.

The views of that canyon are intense. You can see all the way from ~7000 feet down in Bubb's Creek in the canyon to the 13 000+ in the surrounding peaks.

SE Buttress Cathedral Peak.....Make a back country overnight with the Mathis Crest and you will have seen some of the best climbing the Sierra has to offer in one outing.

Thanks for the replies all.  I talked to my guide and I think I am leaning towards Venusian Blind with Bear Creek Spire a second choice.  Day 1 we will hang in Mammoth and climb on Crystal Crag.  Day 2 hike in,  Day 3 climb.  Day 4 hike out.  My goal is for me to lead as much as possible, which may sacrifice some time but makes the experience more worthwhile for me.  I am currently a 5.5/5.6 Gunks leader following to 5.8 there.  I've followed to 5.8 in Yosemite and Cochise.  

My goal for this trip is to further skills (both technical and movement) and get more experience in more remote settings.  Ultimately I want to be able to do moderate, alpine routes on my own, as the leader - that's the goal right now.  I live in the North East so think Whitney Gillman, Moby Grape, Armadillo, Wallface Diagonal.  I have done some of those routes, but not as the leader.  When I say leader I mean the party leader/primary decision maker, not just the person leading pitches.  I am going with a guide from AAI I used 2 years ago and he is very focused on teaching and building skills.  I don't want to just...get to the top. I am entering my 4th season of climbing - I think I am doing pretty well for that amount of time and my skills are good - but this will be a chance to learn more...in a super awesome, classic setting.  I am inspired for, and by this trip, so I hope to see some progress over the next 6 months.  I want to show up as fit and technically sound as I can.

We talked about Clyde Minaret and I think due to the difficulty and length it may limit some of what I can lead so it may not be the best for my goals.  Charlotte Dome looks AWESOME, but I am not sure I want to do such a stiff hike for this trip.

Michael S. Catlett wrote: SE Buttress Cathedral Peak.....Make a back country overnight with the Mathis Crest and you will have seen some of the best climbing the Sierra has to offer in one outing.

In Aug I did Cathedral with YMG.  What you are describing is the exact kind of trip I am working towards doing alone and independently.  I want to get to a place where I can confidently lead a trip exactly like that.  Be confident with the climbing as well as the tech skills needed if something goes wrong, etc.  I'm not there yet, for my comfort level, but I am on my way.

Clyde is definitely too big of an objective for you given your described skill set.  It's long, has some loose sections and you should be a solid 5.9 climber I believe, though some of those issues are mitigated by having a guide familiar with the route. For the same reasons, the N. Butt of Mt. Goode and Mt. Russell aren't the best choices either.

Temple to Mt. Sill sounds nice, but that's alot of climbing.  I suspect the guide would want you more solid at the grade before taking you on that. Crystal Crag is a much smaller objective than what others have suggested, but it would let you get some leading in, let the guide know what you're capable of and saves you an extra day of paying a guide. If that's an issue, know that you can tag BCS in a day, whereas Venusian Blind may require a couple given longer hike in. I've done Moon Goddess car to car, though it was a long day and probably wouldn't allow you the luxury of taking your time to swing leads or build some skills, which seems to be a big part of this for you. Plus camping at Third Lake, with Temple staring you in the face, is awesome. Still both it and BCS are awesome summits and you'll have a blast on one or both. 

neils wrote:   Day 1 we will hang in Mammoth and climb on Crystal Crag.  

I was actually going to suggest the North Arete on Crystal Crag, but it seemed like you were leaning much more towards back-county stuff.  It's so magical when you get up into that huge white crystal band.  And the views are stellar!  

neils wrote: My goal is for me to lead as much as possible, which may sacrifice some time but makes the experience more worthwhile for me.  

Guides don't normally allow their clients to lead for liability reasons. If that is your goal, I would discuss that with you guide before booking the trip

phylp wrote:

I was actually going to suggest the North Arete on Crystal Crag, but it seemed like you were leaning much more towards back-county stuff.  It's so magical when you get up into that huge white crystal band.  And the views are stellar!  

I actually intend to do that day 1, with my guide so he and I can practice and get systems dialed between us.  That would be my day 1 of climbing.  The following day we will head out to the backcountry.

Cory Brooks wrote:

Guides don't normally allow their clients to lead for liability reasons. If that is your goal, I would discuss that with you guide before booking the trip

I have been out with him before.  We discussed it and along with AAI's policies you can lead and learn...it's a guides decision but the whole point is to learn and you can lead, within ability level.  I have been out with guides in the past that don't let you lead, for liability reasons and I didn't want to do that this trip.  I wouldn't do it unless I can lead at least part of the trip and fully contribute.

It sounds more like you need to pick up about $20 of books from amazon and dedicate more time on the sharp end building up your leading confidence. Seems like your trip could be pretty awesome (and a lot cheaper) with minimal effort to prep yourself for a more self reliant trip. You have at least 6 months, make the most of it!

north or west ridge of Mt. Conness