Edelrid Bulletproof biners

Mike13 wrote:

... The armchair metallurgy on mountain project is a source of personal distaste. So, apologies for the misunderstanding... 

No worries, I didn't see an misunderstanding at all.  Though not a metallurgist myself, as an aerospace engineer I do have a basic understanding of metallurgy, and typically, I just figure it's not worth getting too worked up over people's misconceptions about that kind of thing.  I do agree that calling a 7000 series aluminum an aluminum zinc alloy is kind of funny since as you mentioned, it's just an aluminum alloy.

I normally go through aluminum anchor draw biners in 3 to 4 mos. I’ve been using these for about a year and a half and they have minimal wear. Very happy with them. 

These things are the da bomb! Not only do they have all the above mentioned bene’s they also reduce rope drag and awesome for clipping to the tyroleans across Boulder and Ckear Creeks. 

Seriously!

Edelrid's Bulletproof biners deserve to become as popular as Grigris!

Got 6 longer (18cm) Bulletproof draws this Spring and put 'em under heavy use thru the Summer and Fall. They are good comfortable to clip sport draws for projecting routes. Although 6 seems to be a bit excessive. Two or three is enough — you want to clip Bulletproof as the first draw and to protect that crux move you need to work on. Other bolts could be clipped with something lighter.

Anyone noticed a difference using one while repelling with an atc? Quicker slip? 

Alex Guzman wrote: Anyone noticed a difference using one while repelling with an atc? Quicker slip? 

No

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

Does steel produce less friction than aluminium?

No.

Jim Titt wrote:

No.

Does steel produce more friction than aluminum? Or are they pretty much the same?

Once they are both polished it´s hard to measure any difference between the two, new anodised aluminium can be a bit higher but that doesn´t last long. Any difference in the friction is more likely to be due to a larger diameter where the rope runs.

I use the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG  and it is 100% no doubt my favorite heavy duty cragging/rock climbing belay carabiner ever.

Beyond it's durability, it has great ergonomics and a great set of features. And it's not really any heavier than comparable large HMS carabiners.

I'm not a fan of Edelrid's Jul line of devices but have found the Mammut Bionic Alpine is an ideal mate for the Bulletproof as it is also a steel/aluminum hybrid device with simple and effective handling and great durability.  No more black hand/ropes!!!

^^ Or a grigri..

But seriously, these biners are a worth their weight in gold.

Another vote for these. Absolutely essential for any desert cragging (especially top anchors at the Creek).

rkrum wrote: ^^ Or a grigri..

But seriously, these biners are a worth their weight in gold.

Are you advocating use of these biners with a grigri? What would the advantage be?

Scott Kilts wrote:

Are you advocating use of these biners with a grigri? What would the advantage be?

No he was advocating using a grigri instead of that belay device, because the steel on a grigri is going to be more durable than any aluminum belay device. 

The post I was referencing was suggesting pairing it with some sort of steel ATC, presumably to eliminate another source of aluminum oxide.

A grigri cam and friction plate are SS and a grigri+ has an SS wear plate on the side. I mentioned the grigri because it seems like a more ubiquitous (and useful) device than the steel ATC thing.

I’ve got two and a half years on my Bulletproof anchor draw biners now and I’m getting moderate grooves. Used to go through aluminum biners every four months or so. Well worth the price/weight. 

Any one has a mammal alpine belay device, wondering if they are compatible?

Andre Chiang wrote: Any one has a mammal alpine belay device, wondering if they are compatible?

I've only used it for amphibians myself.  

To answer your comment I have and they are compatible but I prefer the gigajul.