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Ken Duncan
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Dec 30, 2017
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Ft Collins, CO
· Joined Jul 2004
· Points: 3,965
I’ve been using the Edelrid Bulletproof biners (aluminum biners with a steel sheath where the rope runs) on my anchor and first bolt draws for about 6 months. I used to go through anchor draw biners every three or four months. At this point there is essentially no wear on the biners and a huge side benefit is that I get almost no aluminum oxide buildup on my rope. A much cleaner rope and longer biner life. I’m sold!
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that guy named seb
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Dec 30, 2017
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 210
Are they really worth it for what you are using it for? Like there's no reason why all the places you are using them you couldn't just use a cheap full steel biner as in both uses that you highlighted you are either not climbing with the extra weight or getting it off your harness with in the first few meters.
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Ken Duncan
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Dec 30, 2017
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Ft Collins, CO
· Joined Jul 2004
· Points: 3,965
that guy named seb wrote:Are they really worth it for what you are using it for? Like there's no reason why all the places you are using them you couldn't just use a cheap full steel biner as in both uses that you highlighted you are either not climbing with the extra weight or getting it off your harness with in the first few meters. That would be fine for the first draw but I always carry the anchor draws on the onsite and would just as soon keep them as light as possible.
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J W
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Dec 30, 2017
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Feb 2004
· Points: 1,535
They're awesome. I have them for anchor draws and I love that they feel like a regular carabiner, but the steel insert keeps the wear to basically nothing. Definitely worth it.
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Brandt Allen
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Dec 30, 2017
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Joshua Tree, Cal
· Joined Jan 2004
· Points: 215
I've had a couple for anchor draws for a month or so. Definitely the way to go. I'm looking forward to their locker belay biner - heard it may be out next spring.
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Bill Czajkowski
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Dec 30, 2017
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Albuquerque, NM
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 30
Ken Duncan wrote:I’ve been using the Edelrid Bulletproof biners (aluminum biners with a steel sheath where the rope runs) on my anchor and first bolt draws for about 6 months. I used to go through anchor draw biners every three or four months. At this point there is essentially no wear on the biners and a huge side benefit is that I get almost no aluminum oxide buildup on my rope. A much cleaner rope and longer biner life. I’m sold! I’ve been doing the same for a couple of months. I’m pretty happy with the results so far. The extra cost over steel biners is pretty negligible when you only need to buy three and worth it to prevent hauling steel biners to the anchor.
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DrRockso
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Feb 28, 2018
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Red River Gorge, KY
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 356
Bump. Are the Bulletproof screwgates out yet?
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Aidan Raviv
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Feb 28, 2018
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South Pasadena, CA
· Joined Dec 2017
· Points: 100
DrRockso wrote:Bump. Are the Bulletproof screwgates out yet? Edelrid rep I talked to last night at a demo said about 3 weeks and they will be on backcountry etc. Really excited about their triact locker because the action is way nicer than the pretzel ones
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climber pat
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Mar 1, 2018
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Las Cruces NM
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 241
Brandt Allen wrote:I've had a couple for anchor draws for a month or so. Definitely the way to go. I'm looking forward to their locker belay biner - heard it may be out next spring. The Edelrid HMS Bruce steel has been available for years. I love mine. No visible wear after 4 years vs 2 belay biners per year with aluminum belay biners.
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Christopher Smith
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Mar 1, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 0
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Ken Noyce
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Mar 1, 2018
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Layton, UT
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2,415
I absolutely love the bulletproof! I actually put them on all of my draws, clean rope and no wear, what more could I want?
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Taylor Spiegelberg
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Mar 1, 2018
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Lander & Sheridan, WY
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 1,275
climber pat wrote: No visible wear after 4 years vs 2 belay boners per year with aluminum belay biners. Hehehehe
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climber pat
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Mar 1, 2018
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Las Cruces NM
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 241
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:Hehehehe That auto correct gets me all the time. Thanks.
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mountainhick
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Mar 1, 2018
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Black Hawk, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
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Ryan Swanson
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Mar 1, 2018
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Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 50
I was looking for the HMS locker two weeks ago, and couldn't find if it existed, so I bought the Bruce. Dammit.
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Chuck Parks
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Mar 29, 2018
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jan 2008
· Points: 2,150
Look what showed up in the mailbox today! Backordered from Backcountry at the beginning of March. I guess this means they'll be showing up in stores soon.
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Jake Jones
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Mar 29, 2018
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Richmond, VA
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 1,734
I just picked up 8 of the longer draws for about $20 apiece. Time will tell whether they're superior in terms of wear, but from what I've read, they seem to be, and they really are a slick draw and not too heavy for non-wiregates. I'm psyched on 'em so far. Maybe if the goddamned monsoon season ends before Memorial Day here, I'll get to use them.
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Mike
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Mar 29, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 10
Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel?
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Ryan Swanson
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Mar 29, 2018
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Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 50
Mike13 wrote:Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel? Just buy a new one in 5-8 years when that happens
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Greg Gavin
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Mar 29, 2018
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SLC, UT
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 766
I just used them down in the desert. For ANY desert climber these biners/draws should be on your rack. Instead of zipping through biners when top roping these things are gonna save your hide.
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Jake Jones
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Mar 29, 2018
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Richmond, VA
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 1,734
Mike13 wrote:Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel? They most certainly will, just as their aluminum/zinc counterparts do. The idea is that it will take much longer for this to occur.
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