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Edelrid Bulletproof biners


Original Post
Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 3,144

I’ve been using the Edelrid Bulletproof biners (aluminum biners with a steel sheath where the rope runs) on my anchor and first bolt draws for about 6 months. I used to go through anchor draw biners every three or four months. At this point there is essentially no wear on the biners and a huge side benefit is that I get almost no aluminum oxide buildup on my rope. A much cleaner rope and longer biner life. I’m sold!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Are they really worth it for what you are using it for? Like there's no reason why all the places you are using them you couldn't just use a cheap full steel biner as in both uses that you highlighted you are either not climbing with the extra weight or getting it off your harness with in the first few meters. 

Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 3,144
that guy named seb wrote:

Are they really worth it for what you are using it for? Like there's no reason why all the places you are using them you couldn't just use a cheap full steel biner as in both uses that you highlighted you are either not climbing with the extra weight or getting it off your harness with in the first few meters. 

That would be fine for the first draw but I always carry the anchor draws on the onsite and would just as soon keep them as light as possible. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

They're awesome. I have them for anchor draws and I love that they feel like a regular carabiner, but the steel insert keeps the wear to basically nothing. Definitely worth it. 

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 215

I've had a couple for anchor draws for a month or so. Definitely the way to go. I'm looking forward to their locker belay biner - heard it may be out next spring.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30
Ken Duncan wrote:

I’ve been using the Edelrid Bulletproof biners (aluminum biners with a steel sheath where the rope runs) on my anchor and first bolt draws for about 6 months. I used to go through anchor draw biners every three or four months. At this point there is essentially no wear on the biners and a huge side benefit is that I get almost no aluminum oxide buildup on my rope. A much cleaner rope and longer biner life. I’m sold!

I’ve been doing the same for a couple of months. I’m pretty happy with the results so far.

The extra cost over steel biners is pretty negligible when you only need to buy three and worth it to prevent hauling steel biners to the anchor.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

Bump. Are the Bulletproof screwgates out yet?

Aidan Raviv · · South Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 100
DrRockso wrote:

Bump. Are the Bulletproof screwgates out yet?

Edelrid rep I talked to last night at a demo said about 3 weeks and they will be on backcountry etc.

Really excited about their triact locker because the action is way nicer than the pretzel ones

climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215
Brandt Allen wrote:

I've had a couple for anchor draws for a month or so. Definitely the way to go. I'm looking forward to their locker belay biner - heard it may be out next spring.

The Edelrid HMS Bruce steel has been available for years. I love mine.  No visible wear after 4 years vs 2 belay biners per year with aluminum belay biners. 

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,249

I absolutely love the bulletproof!  I actually put them on all of my draws, clean rope and no wear, what more could I want?

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,160
climber pat wrote:

 No visible wear after 4 years vs 2 belay boners per year with aluminum belay biners. 

Hehehehe

climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

Hehehehe

That auto correct gets me all the time.  Thanks. 

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Christopher Smith wrote:

http://www.backcountrygear.com/edelrid-bulletproof-screw.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQtjWAD1k78YqHhWbVvhTHjE_GTFMInQ1NpvG0t37KJKgX7qnrhAfW1waAhKxEALw_wcB

http://www.backcountrygear.com/edelrid-hms-bulletproof-screw-carabiner.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQtjXggFHBAmCW_qIwoaABjW82wulUIbeF9SuG-rtBGR7UOy_6d_zxXQaAprcEALw_wcB

http://www.backcountrygear.com/edelrid-hms-bulletproof-triple-fg.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQthzne4d6FUUyul_IwKbor1chYt6vubHyyKsc3sfsh1k9hhrjfDDwpcaAoOgEALw_wcB

Looks to me like they are already out.  I might just have to pick up a pair of these to replace the normal double locker system I use for trad top ropes.

I called them last week. Not in stock and no  pending shipment info delivery date. They put up the webpage in anticipation of receiving their spring order

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

I was looking for the HMS locker two weeks ago, and couldn't find if it existed, so I bought the Bruce.  Dammit.

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,144

Look what showed up in the mailbox today!

Backordered from Backcountry at the beginning of March. I guess this means they'll be showing up in stores soon.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,639

I just picked up 8 of the longer draws for about $20 apiece.  Time will tell whether they're superior in terms of wear, but from what I've read, they seem to be, and they really are a slick draw and not too heavy for non-wiregates.  I'm psyched on 'em so far.  Maybe if the goddamned monsoon season ends before Memorial Day here, I'll get to use them.

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10

Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel?

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Mike13 wrote:

Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel?

Just buy a new one in 5-8 years when that happens

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 756

I just used them down in the desert. For ANY desert climber these biners/draws should be on your rack. Instead of zipping through biners when top roping these things are gonna save your hide.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,639
Mike13 wrote:

Anyone know if these are going to make a sharp edge once you do wear through that steel?

They most certainly will, just as their aluminum/zinc counterparts do.  The idea is that it will take much longer for this to occur.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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