Class 3 and 4 routes
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Looking for some suggestions for class 3 & 4 routes/scrambling within 2 hours of SLC. Want to work on scamble rope work. Thanks in advance for the help. |
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South Ridge Mt Superior. Short sections (2) of low class 5. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107288681/blister-hill-bypass-to-forgotten-arete
It's not 3rd or 4th but it's super easy and it's mostly sunny later in the day. |
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You could probably call the right side of the west slabs of Olympus 3rd/4th class, depending on your actual route. |
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Devils Castle traverse fits the usual definition of |
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Igor Chained wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107288681/blister-hill-bypass-to-forgotten-arete |
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Yes to Geurt’s! It is a superb route, which lends itself very well to 4th class techniques. Bring a 40 meter light gym rope, and a light rack of cams stoppers and long slings. Great suggestion! |
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+1 for West Slabs. |
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Add +1 with Alex for the West slabs Olympus. We probably didn't take the easiest line, thought most of the moves Class 4 to 5.2, with maybe a couple of moves of 5.4 or so. |
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Standard ridge in bcc is mostly 4th class with just a few fifth class moves. It’s pretty good route to practice simul climbing. |
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Nearly every route mentioned so far is fifth class guys. Normally third and fourth is climbed to 'get somewhere'. If you don't care about getting anywhere, just go find some local choss that's not steep enough for 'climbing'and go up. |
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As Peter Lenz mentioned above, the issue with Class 3 and 4 is that they originally defined a TYPE of climbing: 3rd = No rope, but hands are "required" for making progress; good hand and footholds, handholds good enough to grab and hold you if a foot slips, but still best not fall. 4th = use a rope, and belays but no intermediate protection points, i.e. climbers are scrambling along roped up, usually close together; the second calls up "Hey it's tricky here!" and the leader stops, takes in the slack and maybe slips the rope around a boulder or protrusion, or around his/her waist, and gives a quick belay. Technically, "Class 4" applies to any roped climbing where no intermediate protection is placed. (and, I think, only "natural" belays too, but I'm not sure about that part of the old definition) |
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If FlippinSweetDude could tell us what he's comfortable with, that would help a lot. |
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Sure, I can provide more information. |
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In Wasatch: In Tetons: (5 hours from SLC) Buck Mt., SE Face Teewinot, E. Face Symmetry Spire, N. Couloir All of these require snow climbing in early season. I like lots (5-6) of long runners (doubles and triples) for setting up quick belays and protectionpoints on trees and boulders. |
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In the SLC area you might first try Reservoir Ridge at the picnic area in Big Cottonwood. It's rated 5.4 and 3 pitches. My recollection is it is actually a nice climb with mostly "Class 4 / easy Class 5" moves and has the advantage that it has (at least) the 1st bolted belay. Similar to climbing that on Olympus' West Slabs (i.e. easy climbing, then a "move" then more easy climbing) but far, far less committing. |
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Excellent advice! Especially the bit about down climbing. So important! That skill will get you out of more bad situations than any other, and often faster than rappelling. |
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Jump Off Canyon in Ogden. Go up canyon about 15 minutes, past all the named routes, and you'll have as much hand-over-hand 4th class simulclimbing as you could ever want. |
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Wildcat Traverse, from Mt. Olympus to Mt. Raymond, is more 3rd class probably, but still worth checking out. |




