Your recommended first/best 5 routes 5.11 and under for first-time visit to Boulder area?

What 5 or so routes would you seasoned front range veterans recommend for a first-time visitor to the area who is:

- Mainly a Sierra granite climber
- Comfortable up to 5.11 Yosemite climbing
- Not much experience outside of Sierra granite
 
Assume an abiding love for all types and sizes of cracks equally - thin, wide etc love it all. I understand that Eldo is not generally about sustained cracks. Will have a two or three days. Not interested in sport on this trip. The climb I want most to try is the Naked Edge of course, but not sure that's a good call on first visit. If it's equal to or easier than the Rostrum I'd go for it, but I get the sense it's maybe a little harder?

So if you seasoned Eldo monkeys could climb only five more climbs before leaving, with all of the knowledge you've acquired, what routes would you be going for?

When will you be there? Not much difficult 'crack' climbing on the edge, but it is much less sustained than the rostrum. As some parts of the edge feel heady, on slippery crimps and polished feet, I would suggest doing several 'easier'/less involved routes first. The Northwest corner of the Bastille is a good example, as you'll have to pull hard moves on crimps above gear.

There are better 5.11 routes in eldo than the edge. I like the Doub-Griffith more, but that is nearly entirely face climbing (and is also spooky). Vertigo is not so good, although others will disagree with me here.

If you will be there on the shoulder seasons I would recommend Lumpy. If you will be there in the summer I would of course recommend RMNP and Mount Evans.

Hmmm... it does occur to me that a good day to warm up, tune in, and figure out your grades would be to head over to Rincon.  Start on Over the Hill (10a/b, and can be done as a single 60+ meter pitch), then do Ariel Book (11a, 2 pitches) then move right to Center Route (slickness, 11a/b, 3 pitches) and Ricon (5.11b, can be done in 2 pitches).  There's plenty of stuff around within 100 yards to do after that if ambition and time remain.
Aside of other ideas mentioned, a few things come to mind.
Psychosis with the '3 Old Farts' variation and the direct roof finish.  Maybe finish to the top of Redgarden on Mellow Yellow (5.11+) if that felt easy, or Maybe the South Face of Tower One(10c) if it felt hard, but you were comfortable with it and want something more adventurous.  Psycho Pigeon(11a)  would be an alternative somewhere in between.  Or rap off and do Vertigo next.
The Diving Board (11a, needs wide pro, but is not sustained OW climbing, really) won't have any lines on it and if you indeed like all sizes equally, that should be a fun one.

Tim Meehan wrote: If I could climb that hard, I'd spend some time at Castle Rock and climb Country Club Crack. Sorry to recommend a climb I haven't done, but it is a beauty from the ground. I am learning clean aid so I can climb it someday myself.

Was going to recommend this

We'll be there in two weeks! Excited as all hell. I posted a similar thread this spring for a first-time visit to Moab and got excellent answers that I used to good result. Thanks for the input all.

Based on your ticklist and experience level the Edge should be challenging but attainable. It depends on how well you adapt to face climbing with funky gear. I’ll echo the suggestion to spend a couple days tuning up to Eldo climbing. Based on how that goes, you can then decide to try the Edge or set your sights on something easier.

I like Phil’s suggest of NW corner if Bastille as a day 2 tester route before trying the Edge. It’s a good route with good exposure on a classic formation.

If those days go well, try the Edge. If Eldo 5.11 freaks you out, finish the trip by romping up one of the more moderate classics in the canyon. There’s a ton of fun 5.9-5.10s out there. Rosy Crucifixion is a classic.

Naked Edge is easier than the Rostrum for sure. (even as a CA climber used to granite) 100% don't miss it, it's super fun.

A suggestion on what not to do: don't visit any of the granite areas (Boulder Canyon, Lumpy, etc.). Not that there is anything wrong with those crags (they have some great climbing), but you have access to plenty of granite (understatement...) already in CA. And the CA granite is generally better than the CO granite (another understatement). Eldo sandstone is different from anything in CA, so it is worth spending your time there for the unique experience it offers. Plus, 3 days if just barely enough time to get a feel for the canyon, so I'd suggest spending all of your trip in Eldo.

**Side note: if your arms are tired and you want a mellower climbing day, romping up a Flatiron is super fun and totally worth it.

Castlerock in bocan! Country club crack,athletes feat, the sting, tongo, final exam to pass fail option....5 classics/ all minutes from each other. 

Animation in lower animal world. Fantastic 5.8 climb and other great climbs nearby.

If you're interested in crack climbing in Eldo in the 5.9-5.10 range, here are a few suggestions.
- Grandmother's Challenge 10c. A moderate finger to fist crack leading into a burly layback/stemming roof crux.
- Blind Faith 10a. Classic hand crack crux pitch with a funky second pitch.
- Grand Course 10a/11a variation. Sustained hand/fist crack.
- Werk Supp 9+. Fun 5.8 finger crack into an off-balance and physical hand/fist crack. Good warm-up/cool down route.
- Handcracker Direct 10a. 4th pitch is one of the best 5.10 crack pitches in the canyon. Lots of fun 5.9 here too.

Of course, the suggestions above in the 5.11 range may be of more interest to you if you're looking for a serious challenge. Eldo can take a while to get used to, so I would definitely start with a classic 5.9 or 10 first.

Over The Hill 5.10
Aerial Book  (thin stemming on P1, need lots of rp's)
Aerospace  (very spicy to first bolt but you can lower off the Aerial Book anchor and clip the first draw then pull the rope and have it set up.)  
Center Route
Climb of the Century
Direct North Face of the Bastille  
Doub-Griffith
The Naked Edge

I climbed with a young, bold Jericho in Boulder that took me to some great classics when I was there a week ago. I'll hook you up with him. 

Even though it's granite and maybe a bit generic, go climb Wunsch's dihedral in the South Platte if it's forecast to be a cold day.

It's probably the best medium length crack climb in the area. There are a few variations that make it even better. And since you're down there for a day, climb something on Poe Buttress or the other larger nearby features. 

Luke Toillion wrote: - Werk Supp 9+. Fun 5.8 finger crack into an off-balance and physical hand/fist crack. Good warm-up/cool down route.

You can finish on March Of Dimes for a thin 3-move 5.10c that adds a pitch and gets you to the next set of anchors.

More excellent input, thanks all.

Really good argument to avoid the granite venues - we were already planning a day at Castlerock. Those routes look so good! But you make good points.

Wunsch's dihedral

Have lusted about that for ages since seeing a pic of it here on MP years ago. Not likely to make it down there this time though. But man does that one look incredible.

Thanks again all

Sirius wrote: What 5 or so routes would you seasoned front range veterans recommend for a first-time visitor to the area ... Will have a two or three days. ...

With only two-three days, it is probably better to ask which areas have a high density of quality climbs. You won't have time to run around to several different crags during each day. With this in mind, I'll vote for what Tony B and Jeff G suggested; The Rincon area in Eldo. From left to right:

Over the Hill 10b ****, Aerial Book 11a ****, Aerospace 11b ****, Climb of the Century 11b ***, Center Route 11a *** (most only do first pitch), Rincon 11a ****, Five-Ten Crack linkup to Reveley-Hunter 10a *** (avoid a small patch of poison ivy by stepping right in between the two climbs), Point Break 11a ****, Muscular Dystrophy 11a ***, Chockstone 10a *** (can rap off after 2nd pitch), Born Under Punches linkup to Friends in High Places 10b ***, Xanadu 10a ***, Terminal Velocity 11b ***, White Lightning 10a ***, Parallels 11b ***, Foxtrot 11d ****.

All of these are within 10 min stroll. Most of these are single-pitches, some are R rated.

Double up on small nuts (#3 through #8 BD size and some smaller brassies) and cams (black alien/grey metolius through 0.75 camalot). Generally, at 5.10 and up in Eldo, you'll find plenty of thin, shallow cracks that (often) take great nut placements, but might offer lesser quality cam positions.

Death and Transfiguration Flatirons is a must.

Patrik wrote:

With only two-three days, it is probably better to ask which areas have a high density of quality climbs. You won't have time to run around to several different crags during each day. With this in mind, I'll vote for what Tony B and Jeff G suggested; The Rincon area in Eldo. From left to right:

Over the Hill 10b ****, Aerial Book 11a ****, Aerospace 11b ****, Climb of the Century 11b ***, Center Route 11a *** (most only do first pitch), Rincon 11a ****, Five-Ten Crack linkup to Reveley-Hunter 10a *** (avoid a small patch of poison ivy by stepping right in between the two climbs), Point Break 11a ****, Muscular Dystrophy 11a ***, Chockstone 10a *** (can rap off after 2nd pitch), Born Under Punches linkup to Friends in High Places 10b ***, Xanadu 10a ***, Terminal Velocity 11b ***, White Lightning 10a ***, Parallels 11b ***, Foxtrot 11d ****.
All of these are within 10 min stroll. Most of these are single-pitches, some are R rated.
Double up on small nuts (#3 through #8 BD size and some smaller brassies) and cams (black alien/grey metolius through 0.75 camalot). Generally, at 5.10 and up in Eldo, you'll find plenty of thin, shallow cracks that (often) take great nut placements, but might offer lesser quality cam positions.

That is a good day, and a great tune in and warm up, but... yeah, I'd want to get on something longer if I were there and the weather was conducive.
I think this week's weather has people in a cragging mindset.  Best of luck!

Oh, and if you decide to spend 1 day in the flatirons instead of Eldo, there are plenty more cragging cracks to get after.  I can make a list for you if so.
I focused on Eldo so as to give you the best 'warm-up' and 'tune-in' opportunities for the Naked Edge, but yes, Bocan and the Flats have plenty to offer.

Sirius wrote:Assume an abiding love for all types and sizes of cracks equally - thin, wide etc love it all. I understand that Eldo is not generally about sustained cracks. 

Yup, Eldo has few cracks. If you are looking for more serious cracklove, you'd be better off driving 2h north to Vedauwoo .

Bell Buttress in Boulder canyon houses really nice cracks. I thought highly of the climbs.