Cathedral/Whitehorse/Cannon recommendations for first time visitor

I'm hoping to make it out to NH to climb for the first time in the near future and plan to visit Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges and Cannon Cliff. Currently considering classics like Thin Air, Toe Crack, and Pine Tree Elim. at Cathedral; Beginners, Beg. Easy, or Cormier-Magness at Whitehorse; and WG or MG at Cannon. One problem is my schedule may limit me to either beautiful weather weekends OR rainy weekdays.
1. Any advice on gear selection? Bring a single 60 rope or doubles?
2. Any tips on avoiding crowds on nice weather days? Route selection after rainy days?
3. Is it even worth it to attempt WG or MG at Cannon if the forecast at Franconia calls for 1/4" of rain w/temps in 60s-70s (assuming I'm based in Lincoln at that time)?
4. Other lesser-known routes worth considering? Primarily interested in multi-pitch over single pitch, and trad over sport.
I'm comfortable with east coast cracks up to 5.9 but have a healthy respect for slabs so prefer to start as easy as possible on slab routes at Whitehorse.
Thanks in advance!

Start with The Cormier-Magness Route at Whitehorse. Easy to spot, fun, with a bolt or two per pitch to keep it mentally light. Worst case you get off route after the 3-4 pitch and top out on something else that is fun and easy.

60m rope on some routes in White/Cathedral might be a tough rap down on a few routes, but more often than not, its plenty.

At Cathedral try Turner Flake and linking it with Thin Air and Pine Tree Eliminate to top out. The last pitches of Thin Air are classic with a boring 2 pitch start you avoid by going up an exciting Turner Flake pitch. You can see the link up easily and you get to top out the wall.

Cannon, from what I've heard, it a little more exposed to weather and wind than the other two. I've hiked there a lot but never climbed.

1. Gear: A pipe. Do not forget a pipe. It is a *must have* piece on the Whitney G, as discovered by said Whitney and Gilman in 1929. Bring a selection of sizes.

2. Crowds: if you find the Cathedral Whitehorse and Cannon too busy for your standards on nice days, try the Parking Lot Wall at Rumney. It will reset the bar

3. Weather: W-G and M-G can handle 1/4" of rain but that is about it. If the forecast calls for 5/16" of rain, you should **absolutely stay away**  

4. Lesser know routes: Do you really want me to give away ALL my secrets! I'll give you one hint to get you started: there is an alternate start to Moby Grape. 

1) Standard rack will get you up all these routes, you can go lighter on Whitehorse since you wont be placing much gear. A 70 m is ideal for linking pitches
.
2) None of these crags will be crowded during the week, regardless of weather. On weekends, I've actually found that waiting until the afternoon for getting on the popular routes is a better strategy than trying to be the first in the morning. If it's raining I like to practice my aid climbing. You may be surprised how fast things dry out after light rain though.

3) I think only you can answer that question. Depends on your level of commitment. 

4) Not exactly lesser known, but Recompense on Cathedral is the best moderate multipitch on the cliff IMO. Also, Inferno at Whitehorse is another classic not on your above list. Have a great time!

Ska Ggs, Cron, and Greg -- thanks for all the advice!
JohnnyG -- I like your sense of humor :)

Do the hotter than hell to inferno linkup if you get a cooler day (60-75 or so... Or overcast) so good.

If you decide to do WH bring double ropes, most pitches are a rope length. Consider doing Sliding Board instead of Cormier Magness, much more of the good stuff and the run-outs are on easy terrain.

Beware the cathedral 9+!

70m rope is absurd for rock climbing at  Cathedral white horse and Canon.  Not  long enough to bail from  Canon  and too long to be of  any use  linking  pitches.  News flash.  You can  link  every pitch at  Cathedral and  white horse  with a 50m. 50 m doubles even just barely  make it to the bolts on top of  Reppys.  60m doubles are  ideal.  70m doubles are  stupid for rock climbing  but good for ice.   70m single only useful at gunks and a very  few  sport  crags  in the  East.   You don't want to be on  Canon in the  rain. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: 70m rope is absurd for rock climbing at  Cathedral white horse and Canon.  Not  long enough to bail from  Canon  and too long to be of  any use  linking  pitches.  News flash.  You can  link  every pitch at  Cathedral and  white horse  with a 50m. 50 m doubles even just barely  make it to the bolts on top of  Reppys.  60m doubles are  ideal.  70m doubles are  stupid for rock climbing  but good for ice.   70m single only useful at gunks and a very  few  sport  crags  in the  East.   You don't want to be on  Canon in the  rain. 

So Nick your statement isn't entirely true. It depends on what you are doing. A 70 can be used for example if you climb Turners Flake and then want to top rope Wind Fall anything shorter won't enable you to do this. A 70 meter comes in handy if you want to try and bail after the 1st pitch on The Saigon's. So if you are just linking pitches and going to the top you do not necessarily need a 70 but there are times when it comes in handy.

• Still  incredibly unnecessary.  Maybe the  best  solution for  3 places  in the  entire  area.  You  likely  don't  even  realize it  because  you  need to  justify your  purchase  but 99% of the time  you think you need the  70m  a 60  actually  gets you to the same place.  All theses  climbs were  established with  short  ropes .

JohnnyG wrote:2. Crowds: if you find the Cathedral Whitehorse and Cannon too busy for your standards on nice days, try the Parking Lot Wall at Rumney. It will reset the bar

This just killed me. Thank you.

Cannon, when Reppy's has a 4 deep queue, go over and do Slow and Easy and Duet.  They'll be as wet or less wet than the rest of the wall.  Cannon multipitch will have some wet spots even after fair weather, be ready to make a slippery move or two.

At Cathedral, The North End has some great steep crack climbing, one reasonable 5.9(that's very popular) is "They Died Laughing".  Avoid "Double Vee" if you go to the Barber Wall unless you want to be scared.  Seems like the upper half of Cathedral dries faster than the lower half...so stuff like Upper Refuse, Black Lung, might be good soon after lighter rain, just be careful getting to these routes.

JohnnyG wrote:
4. Lesser know routes: Do you really want me to give away ALL my secrets! I'll give you one hint to get you started: there is an alternate start to Moby Grape. 

Unless your going to be that party and use the alternative start to cut the line. And not let anyone pass when you happen to be the slowest party on the damn route. No, I'm not salty. 

My 2 cents:
1. Cannon is very windy, a 60 cloudy/rainy day could be pretty cold. Bring jackets.
2. MG has seen some pretty serious rock falls (saw a huge one myself). Try to be the first party on the route.
3. Climbed WG on a beautiful weekend and did not see a single person! Maybe it isn't that crowded?
4. Climbed the slab route on Whitehorse and it rained when we were in the middle of the climb! The whole thing became a horror show because some sections are very run-out. I don't recommend it unless you are super comfortable with slabs (I'm not).
5. I also found cathedral not too crowded (compared to the Gunks).

Molly Zhu wrote: 
5. I also found cathedral not too crowded (compared to the Gunks).

BKB on a Friday night isn’t crowded compared to the Gunks 

cathedral isn't too crowded as compared to other climbing areas in New England, lots of classics will be open, even on the weekends.. if you have to wait its usually only for a single party.  there are some other great areas in the region worth checking out too (you can peruse the new guidebook at IME in North Conway)

MG and WG on a nice weekend day could be really crowded... I've been up on cannon on weekdays and been the only party on the cliff... go figure

things dry out pretty quick with light rain... but cracks are cracks.. corners are corners... 

On Whitehorse slabs it's possible to get off with a single 70m (maybe even single 60) but unless you REALLY know your way around you'll either leave gear or be doing some raps off single-protection bolts; so if you're not planning on going to the top, or if you might want-to/have-to retreat, best to have doubles.  Dbl 50m's would probably do it, but who has those any more? so dbl 60's probably best if unfamiliar with the cliff.

Someone said that Sliding Board's "run out sections are easy"; yes, that's true if you're comfortable on 5.8-5.9 slab and thus being 60-70 ft out on 5.4 - 5.5 (with the belay off the anchors) is "easy"; but if the crux 5.7 is sort of your friction-slab-comfort limit then the 4th pitch will "get your attention."  Cormier-Mag is a better choice for a first route, or the Standard, or Wedge, or Slabs Direct...all easier to get off of than Sliding Board after the bolted belays run out at the top of P2. (ps- also, a #3 is helpful on P3)

Cannon....you really don't want to be up there if its wet or going to rain.   Rain loosens the sand & dirt, the sand and dirt slides down, then the rocks it was holding start falling. The small rocks hit big rocks and ....well, you get the picture.

...and don't forget Mt Willard; some nice climbs there; personally I think as nice as Whitehorse slabs. Look at  "Main Slab".   If going to the top and walking off, I'd recommend "Ground Control" (5.7+/5.8) as the "exit climb" from the Giant Tree Ledge; or either of the easier two climbs to the right.  Butress #1 for nice single-double pitch climbs.  All in MtnPrjct.

  To avoid the crowds try: Sugarloaf, Rainbow, Lost Ledge, or Table Mtn. Many nice 1-and-2 pitch climbs.

Thanks to everyone who responded here and via PM to my original post. We're back from NH and had a great time. Here's a trip report with some photos.

Awesome photos! Looks like you got a classic on each cliff. 

Cron wrote: Awesome photos! Looks like you got a classic on each cliff. 

Thanks! It was a blast.