About 5 years ago Barbara and I were trekking up the The Devils Causeway, Around 11,000 feet we were huffing and puffing, taking a little break along the trail. Along comes an older gentleman, just plugging along at a steady pace. He stopped and we chatted a bit, he was 82. There is a fellow camphost here walks with a cane, can't bend over, can't do a lot, he is in his early 50's. Lives on disability. A pretty big contrast.
Life choices and genetics play a role in what we can and cannot do. But I believe the greatest controlling factor of our lives is our attitude.
Lori Milas wrote: I'd like to ask for some indulgence this morning: I woke up thinking... oh shit! I'm about to have a birthday! (This one has obviously been big). I just received my Medicare card in the mail. Joshua Tree recently took away my paid-for annual pass and insisted I have the Senor Pass. In five years I'll be 70! OMG. That is very ancient, decrepit, wrinkled and hopeless. It's all about to be over!!!
"... very ancient, decrepit, wrinkled and hopeless." Thanks a lot. I just turned 71 this month. And my problem isn't gaining weight, it's being too thin. If it's possible to eat more butterfat than I do, I'll keep trying.
I do wish I were still climbing outside, but my shoulder surgeries and weak bones plus my partner's injuries limit my outdoor activities to hiking and Boulder's not a bad place to live for that. As for my gym climbing, it's much like others have described the variations among real rock climbs and climbing areas -- it all depends on the route (setter). There are 10+s I can't do and (a few) 11+s I can and a lot of variation in between. The grades have dropped off a little from 20 years ago, but mostly I climb half as many routes in a session and, to avoid falling and breaking something, only lead enough to keep my head in it.
Not cause for despair IMO. And you'll be very happy about that Medicare card if you need a shoulder repair, new knee, etc.
Lori Milas wrote: For myself... I'm not sure I'm able to accurately assess. I FEEL the same as I did at 35. I am much stronger today, however, than ever before in my life.
Honestly, Lori, I don't know what better birthday gift a girl could get herself other than this^. You feel good. You're stronger than ever. You've found a passion and pursuit. You're moving forward in life. Really, what else is there?
"Honestly, Lori, I don't know what better birthday gift a girl could get herself other than this^. You feel good. You're stronger than ever. You've found a passion and pursuit. You're moving forward in life. Really, what else is there?"
I feel deeply blessed, Senor. Not complaining, at all. But I am truly having one of those mid-life pauses, to look around, and assess. Have you ever felt like a stranger in a strange land? I think it's like that. None of my previous conceptions apply. Perhaps Wendy or Helen can relate to the upbringing I had... even with a powerful mother, there was just an assumption about aging. Things like... women cut their hair after 30. We sit in chairs, not on the ground. Maybe join a golf league... and listen to Sinatra. So, it's a bit disorienting. Where's the roadmap? Add to the increasing age thing... but for me... climbing is all new. So I'm continually saying 'I CAN DO THAT? REALLY???' Seems i can.
Russ... I would LOVE to see you in a bar brawl. If you manage to create one... I hope someone catches a picture for MP before you go to jail. And being a nutrition buff... I can see the value of lamb and beer. If its' working... (and apparently it is!)... then it's a keeper.
Perhaps I am lucky that I am SO diabetic... there is no margin for error or debauchery, and diabetics have problems. I cannot get drunk and go brawl. But one good point is that I stay healthy.
Wendy... I have loved whatever you have shared, whenever you feel so inclined. We come from the same era. You seem to have adjusted a bit better... to the fact that the old roadmaps do not apply. So glad you are still climbing. You speak from a well of experience.
Lori Milas wrote: Perhaps Wendy or Helen can relate to the upbringing I had... even with a powerful mother, there was just an assumption about aging. Things like... women cut their hair after 30. We sit in chairs, not on the ground. Maybe join a golf league... and listen to Sinatra. So, it's a bit disorienting. Where's the roadmap? Add to the increasing age thing... but for me... climbing is all new. So I'm continually saying 'I CAN DO THAT? REALLY???' Seems i can.
Lori, I was raised by a family of couch potatoes. It wasn't about being a girl or acting ladylike; it was the same for my brothers. I joke that we were raised to be lollipops -- brains on a stick. So I went through the big change in thinking about and developing my physical abilities when I was in my 20s. There were a fair number of stereotypical husband-wife meltdowns climbing and skiing back then. And I was always the more cautious one.
Lol! Well, aren't you pitiful. Brain/psyche having a high gravity moment???!? It happens. We all know that, and we also all know you're plenty badass. :-)
I graduated from high school in 1975. Women were supposed to pursue work, burn our bras, yada, yada, yada. ..no offense gents, but, for my generation of females you got the milk for free...and us girls? Eh, still expected to shovel the barn. It still goes on, sadly. Not every guy, not every couple, by a long shot, but, those climbing trips Lori wants to take? If there are kids at home? Guys still get to do far more of that, then women.
So. Check-in. I am new, as you know, 61, started late in year 57. I've never been a total couch potato, but, I am now, today, probably as strong as when I was (briefly) in gymnastics at about 16-17. (I sucked, but it was fun). Compared to five or seven years ago, pre climbing? Huge, huge difference.
Yesterday, the friend who is helping me with training, upped what I'm doing. He, does not think in terms of what I "can't" do, neither did the 5.13 guy who briefly coached me this winter. If the legs don't bend? Well, obviously think outside the high step box. And, those legs? Bend farther than they did winter of 2016. Not so long ago, I was 160-165ish. This morning? 128.8. Size almost 16, down to 6ish.
Lori? Those in your thread are just a few, from the MP folks. There are still oodles of FA people out there, going pretty darn strong. And MP is just a tiny fraction of climbers. My friend in the PDX area has met tons of lady crushers from all over (including a trip to South Africa) who, he likes to tell me, are climbing way harder than I am, and quite a lot older. Gee thanks, dear.
You? Before year 65 is up? We will set a date and meet, ma'am. Let's see if we can get these boys to strut their stuff for us, and all our crusher lady friends. You too, Wendy, even if you can't climb outside, I would dearly love to meet you. Twin Falls has a new gym, a gym day and City of Rocks meetup next season???
Best to all us wrinkled, decrepit old wrecks, Helen
The one on Garmin isn't very intuitive. (Sorry, couldn't resist)
Dallas. You are right. And I meant to acknowledge the wonderful post of yours... especially where you mentioned what you are seeing in younger folks you encounter. It's been really hard to refrain from any mention of politics here... but it does seem to fit to at least mention love of land, love of nature, and hope for our precious resources. And yes... our younger hopeful bright students and nature-lovers do give us hope for the future.
Helen... 128.8??? Did you write that correctly? ARE YOU KIDDING? Wow! That is a lot of weight. That's truly amazing! How does it feel to be that much thinner? That has happened pretty fast! Congratulations!!! Is it all climbing-related? I'll bet it's easier on your knees too.
"Lori? Those in your thread are just a few, from the MP folks. There are still oodles of FA people out there..."
I know, Helen. it's all I can do to check in on just this thread each morning and keep an eye out throughout the day... get to work, and as someone mentioned earlier GET CLIMBING! What a wonderful source of support and information everyone has been, and I KNOW there's lots more. Finally I am also meeting climbers both indoors and out. Finally!
"You? Before year 65 is up? We will set a date and meet, ma'am. Let's see if we can get these boys to strut their stuff for us, and all our crusher lady friends. You too, Wendy, even if you can't climb outside, I would dearly love to meet you."
I'm sure we'll make that happen one day. While I am used to driving 600 miles to So. Cal, I always make it a part of a business trip, so I can get work done while playing. And it is still a lot of work to pack, rent cars, make hotel reservations along the way. I have never headed off in the other direction. It could happen. We've talked about a Virtual Campfire... it would be so fun to have a real one.
"Best to all us wrinkled, decrepit old wrecks, Helen"
rgold
·
Aug 31, 2018
·
Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
I'm going to be 75 in three months, so when fifty year olds talk about their issues it seems very, very distant to me.
I've been continually active since I started climbing in 1957. This does, however, give me an accurate barometer of physical decline. I'm probably far above the norm for folks my age, but I'm also quite literally half as strong as I was in my thirties and forties. I've done a bit of everything from bouldering to back country rock climbing to alpine mountaineering to big wall climbing---but nothing expeditionary. I gave up bouldering about 7 years ago after rupturing an ACL in a short jump onto a pad, and that has surely impacted my hand strength negatively. I'm currently out of action with peroneal tendonosis from trail running, but that is a temporary if very frustrating setback. I keep to a reasonable gym and hangboard schedule, hoping to come back at a reasonable level of fitness when my ankle finally heals up.
I'm basically a Gunks local, and I haven't seen a place in the country that is a better climbing area to grow old in, but it is trad climbing. That's all I was ever interested in anyway, I have almost no interest projecting routes, which also means that I have neither the motivation nor the ability to climb the grades ladder. I couldn't care less and---sorry folks---the endless musing about what grade subdivision one is currently aspiring to is almost a complete bore for me.
I've done my share of hard boulders and short climbs, but my main interest was always in longer routes in some back country modality. Even though I try to maintain decent aerobic fitness (eg the trail running that did in my ankle), it is, as with strength, impossible not to notice the slowing effects of age. I was in the Tetons for three weeks last summer, and just in case I might have been fooling myself on all my solo runs, got a proper comeuppance on long hikes and approaches as people of all ages (well, maybe not actually my age) blasted past me (going up and down) on their way to and from their objectives.
The tortoise-like pace obliged me to get going in the dark and mostly just go by myself so as to be able to move exactly as I wished. Fortunately, the skills for soloing were honed long ago and have not yet abandoned me. I've always been a "nature boy," but my current pacing is particularly suited to communing with the environment. Not to be either morose or macabre, but at my age it is a simple reality that each foray into the hills could be the last I'm capable of, and this fosters a level of attention and appreciation I never had when younger, making everything about the experience more intense and inculcating a deep sense of gratitude for being there---I take nothing for granted at this point. So even as the physical machine breaks down, the mental and emotional systems reach new highs, and I find this an utterly agreeable trade-off.
I had a relevant experience about this in the Tetons last summer. I had gotten my usual headlamp start and was plodding up the trail, in a stunningly beautiful draw split by a stream and covered in wild flowers, lit by the rays of the just-rising sun. Here's almost the exact spot:
I heard some voices behind me, and soon a pair of young super-fit guys, stripped to the waist in the still-cool dawn air, sweating like pigs and puffing like steam engines, came galloping up behind me. They stopped for a moment to greet the old guy meandering upwards, saying, "God, this is some approach huh?" To which I replied, "no kidding, this is one of the most beautiful trails I've been on this summer." The look on their faces revealed that I had misunderstood their intent---they were complaining not appreciating---and a moment of silence ensued while each of us processed the miscommunication. Then one of the lads reached out and shook my hand and said, "thanks for that; sometimes we need to be reminded why we're up here..." And off they went at their blistering pace, rapidly disappearing from sight as we reached the talus above, each of us heading for the summit in our own time.
I just turned 59 last month. I've always been active growing up in Hawaii. I grew up studying karate and body surfing and spent my summers running on some of the mountain trails near our home. We didn't know it then, but we were running up and down the pig hunting trails! Lucky for us we didn't come upon any wild pigs or packs of hunting dogs.
I started climbing 8 years ago and 3 years ago made the decision to devote my time and money only to climbing. I quit studying Kyokushin (full contact style) Karate - it was tough constantly being thrown to the ground, kicked and punched. And I also quit playing on 3 golf leagues. It paid off - I had the energy, time and could afford to hire guides to learn new skill sets....crack climbing included! Just recently I joined a golf league. We play socially and these are folks my age and older. I love the outdoors and being active!
Anyone seen the news of that veteran paratrooper celebrating his 100th birthday by skydiving in Hawaii!? Woooo!
I am still getting better each year-- stronger, fitter more flexible. My technique and mental focus and toughness improve. Some days I feel a bit stiff, sore or "old" and can get a bit lazy on those days. Having younger, stronger folks who climb hard every time around to kick me in the butt helps. The one partner I mentioned earlier is particularly good at shaming me in to climbing hard-- largely by example. I am 56. Now they are pushing me to do more steep bouldering V3/4 on 30 degree wall and in cave. Never see anyone older than 40 near that 30 degree wall. I did it the other day. Whined somewhat, but did it.
Roll call, and hi to all of you regular contributors to this thread. I've been following it; you're my tribe as climbers, and like me you're getting what you can out of climbing as the clock is ticking. I'm 56, started climbing in my late 20s in the Tetons, got the bug for it when I moved to Salt Lake in my 30s. I'm having a downer of a season for performance as I manage pain and lack of mobility in a hip I'll get replaced in early November, but I'm still having a blast getting out and up what I can. Got bling in my other hip 9 years ago (genetic predisposition). I've been able to improve each climbing season since I decided to try harder after turning 50, at least until this season, but I plan to improve during the next one. I'm mostly sport climbing, but remained psyched on trad, and got into bouldering more than usual this past winter (4 trips to Joe's). Damn, isn't this climbing stuff fun? Hope to meet some of you out there!
[edit] Missed the roll call thing. I'm only 56. Feel effing great. Snapped a biceps tendon a little while ago and my knees are stuffed but I can still boulder to V4, sports climb to 23 and read lead up to 15. My endurance is great. Should probs get in to yoga and drink less but I'm feeling vital as. Couldn't resist a door frame chin up at the pub last night. Today the French lady at the climbing gym said she likes to watch me climb, she said I'm graceful. I'm feeling rather chuffed!
Lori Milas wrote:...Yesterday at my climbing session with Ryan I suggested...why don't we just skip over the 11's and 12's and go right on to the 13's....
Is that grade 5.11 - 5.13 you're climbing? Bloody hell! Is that like a 28? I'm still getting used the the grade conversion...
Inspired by Russ I too attempted a pull up.....it hurt so I quit..... ;)
Heading to my hunting leases with my sons this am. Checking stands trimming limbs etc. the boys plan to dove hunt (sorry vegans) while I do my thing.
I have 17 stands to climb up (and down) one lap will be about 340' of climbing, in 20' pitches.....freesolo.... ;)
I'm feeling pretty strong, like short barfight strong...but not climbing strong like Russ, and somewhere between dirtbike strong but not race weekend strong.... ;)
As far as compared to my youth the arthritis is probably my biggest complaint. I ran a skid steer moving boulders yesterday and my thumbs aren't bending yet this morning. I don't expect to be strong or recover quickly anymore. I stay within my limits and stop if it hurts.
Carl Schneider wrote: Is that grade 5.11 - 5.13 you're climbing? Bloody hell! Is that like a 28? I'm still getting used the the grade conversion...
No, Carl! I was making a joke! After a year of hard indoor work I have slowly made it to a 5.10d which is a 21 on your scale. At my last coaching session I suggested we just skip over all the next grades and go right to a 13a... (a 29 on your scale), which of course would be impossible. I don't believe I'll ever meet a 13a.
So glad everyone is weighing in here. This is an amazing group of people. Rgold, your post just closed the day for me. It was a real gift. And in a practical sense, your words got me to thinking: perhaps at this time of life it would be helpful to climb what calls you. Maybe that should be a no-brainer, but you said it so well. I can picture you heading out with your headlamp before dawn... going to your trad climbs. You've sort of been saying this all along... take it easy, enjoy what you're climbing, don't chase grades. And there is NO climbing that is 'easy'... but it doesn't have to be punishing. This is a big sport (bigger than non-climbers can imagine)... and coming into it late in life, there are so many things to learn and consider. Within the gym there is the push for harder grades and overhanging routes... our local crags are sport crags (up and down short routes over and over) and nothing there inspires me... maybe my impulse to learn map reading and navigation and head to the desert and the Sierras is the hint about where I want to be and the climbing that really calls to me. (Dallas ) Yet... there's conditioning to consider. And balance, and climbing skill sets. I guess it can't be all or nothing.
All these check-ins are really something. I hope everyone realizes that each person here is an outlier... this isn't average! The great outdoors has called and inspired and strengthened everyone here... and when strength fails, there's always the indoors. As far as community, Helen, I realized that I would be over with a pot of soup, or more, for anyone here if they needed it. I continue to think about the gentleman who checked in a few weeks ago with that incredible last climb story, and wonder how he is. I've been praying for him. Yet I barely know my own neighbors... ----------------------
Carl... not knowing any of you face to face, I was having fun imagining you, Constine and Russ all out showing off in a bar... and then hitting it on the rocks. Boys! Can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em.
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