East Face of the First and N. Face of the Maiden are both, "Classic, Top Ten" routes in Roach's book.
I would keep Direct East Face of the First as a Flatiron Classic. 12 textbook pitches a half a mile from the parking lot, en route to the summit of Green Mountain, that you can do in trail runners is pretty amazing. The history of like, a 15 year old putting it up is also kinda rad. There's a reason people have ticked it hundreds of times.
I’m just saying it’s a better alternative, given the grade, in the area. Sure the East Face of the First is cool and all but pretty lackluster climbing really. It’s popular because it’s easily done in an hour car to car and can be seen from town (which arguably adds to the classic-ness) but it’s just not an engaging rock climb. I think that’s why the Gunks 5.6s are so awesome; they have a lot going for them in their 200’.
I’m just saying it’s a better alternative, given the grade, in the area. Sure the East Face of the First is cool and all but pretty lackluster climbing really. It’s popular because it’s easily done in an hour car to car and can be seen from town (which arguably adds to the classic-ness) but it’s just not an engaging rock climb. I think that’s why the Gunks 5.6s are so awesome; they have a lot going for them in their 200’.
It is 1000ft of clean rock with a 15 minute approach that can easily be climbed in approach shoes. It has to be one of the greatest scrambles in the entire world when you consider ease of access, rock quality, length of route, etc.
Edit: bouncing around the thread I just discovered there's one at Index as well, and I think that's the one Aaron was talking about.
Yes, I'm talking about the one in WA by Leavenworth on Snow Creek Wall.
I'm glad I'm not alone in the realization that cragging in Leavenworth sucks. Not that there aren't fun things to do in the area, but as a cragging destination it leave a lot to be desired. I don't boulder much, but apparently that's where it really shines?
Some of the better climbing I've done though has been up in the Enchantments though. Definitely a lot of fun stuff to get into in that area, you just have to be willing to walk for it.
Conn Diagonal in the Black Hills was disappointing. Kind of brutish climbing. The NW(?) Buttress route is much better IMO to get to the top of Outer Outlet.
It is 1000ft of clean rock with a 15 minute approach that can easily be climbed in approach shoes. It has to be one of the greatest scrambles in the entire world when you consider ease of access, rock quality, length of route, etc.
Sure, you're not wrong but you literally don't need to use your hands when climbing the first.
Most of the comments here claiming certain classics are not classic are insignificant pessimist whines. In other words, which of the whines did I hate? Most of them. And I quit skimming after a couple pages, as I had not seen a single useful comment at that point.
tom donnelly wrote: Most of the comments here claiming certain classics are not classic are insignificant pessimist whines. In other words, which of the whines did I hate? Most of them. And I quit skimming after a couple pages, as I had not seen a single useful comment at that point.
Ok
David K
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Aug 17, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 434
A lot of moderate classics are ruined, not by the climbing or route itself, but by the queue of incompetence traipsing up them.
High E even affects the experience of climbs around it. The other day on Moonlight, I had the displeasure of listening to a belayer on High E yelling "What's going on? Do you want me to take?" to his climber and the climber yelling "Take" until they were both hoarse, with no communication occurring. I still have no idea why the belayer needed to be told to take; I could see the bright yellow slack hanging below him without snags. I heard the first yells right after the crux of Moonlight, and they still had not resolved their impasse when I had finished the climb, brought up my follower, enjoyed the view for a bit, walked to The Last Will Be First, rapped 3 pitches to the ground, packed my gear, and left. An off-duty guide was behind them and I think he was getting ready to solo the pitch out of annoyance.
Rapping down Cat in the Hat, we got stuck behind a group of 5. The two most experienced climbers rapped down first, leaving two complete beginners (first day ever climbing) with a climber who had some experience but clearly was not comfortable teaching the complete beginners how to rappel. It turned out she knew how to set up an extended rappel with backup correctly but we helped her check each of the beginners. The best result possible in this situation happened (everyone got down safely) but it took us 2.5 hours to get to the ground.
Both routes are great, but it's hard to enjoy them if it's at all a busy day.
To be fair: I failed to properly extend a piece leading one pitch of Cat in the Hat and had to back down off the pitch due to rope drag, letting a group of climbers in their one guy in his 40s and two guys in their 60s) pass us before I attempted the pitch again (this time with a 120cm sling).
Ryan Swanson wrote: I forgot about Monkey Space. 5.11b up Monkey face, avoiding the bolt ladder. If the same route was on the ground and didn't summit anything, I don't know anyone who would climb it. The first pitch (11a) is meh, and the second pitch (11b) is a two bolt boulder problem, followed by 50 feet of unprotected 5.4 to the summit. If there is even a hint of a breeze, you can't communicate with your partner on this pitch. Plus, you have to drag up two ropes to get down. Ain't nobody got time for that.
I's mostly true, but the exposure on the 5.11a pitch is excellent. The approach 5.8 pitches are really fun, and the views from the cave and the summit make the climb worthwhile.
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