Where to take beginners rock climbing near Conway, NH
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My gf and I will be going up to Conway in a couple weeks with 2 non-climber friends. They want to try some top roping while we are there. Where can I take them to do some 5.5 - 5.10 TR that will not be obtrusive to other climbers? Thanks for the advice! |
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First thing that comes to mind is 06. Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch) - a trail leads to the top of the cliff but you should know how to build an anchor. If you have some trad climbing experience and a basic rack then you might enjoy the single pitch moderates at Lost Horizon . Have fun and be safe! |
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What is your experience? Do you lead sport? Lead trad? Have trad gear? |
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The most obvious place is Child's Play on the North End Slab at Cathedral itself, though it likely will be occupied by guided groups most of the time. As stated above Square Ledge in Pinkham is excellent with a fantastic view across to Mt. Washington. Another option is Elephant's Head at the top of Crawford Notch. Right next to the road, easy to get to the top to set up top ropes, a couple of short but pleasant easy routes and also very scenic. There are other possible options, but those are the ones that come most easily to mind. |
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Square Ledge in Pinkham, Lost Horizon at Sundown, the Echo Roof area of Whitehorse (you'll have to lead first to set up TRs), the Beelzabub corner (Whitehorse, lead first, other easy options nearby), the Geriatric area at Humphrey's has some nice easy sport routes, Jockey Cap (ten miles east of Conway in Fryeburg, Maine, some good easy (if steep) toproping. This is a tough area for beginners, but you can find stuff. Talk to folks at International Mountain Equipment, the great gear shop in North Conway. |
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DrV ...you just got really good advice from climbers really familiar with the area. Since you didn't give your experience level/gear availability here's a couple of things you might want to know about the recommendations: |
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Thank you for the recommendations! To provide the missing details: I have been climbing for 8 years. I lead trad (up to about 5.10) and have a suitable rack and static webbing/cord for TR anchors. I have 2, 60m ropes (but I would certainly prefer not lugging around both). |
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Got it...then you might add into your possibilities to look at: Mt Oscar's West Mtn at Bretton Woods ski area (if lift is offerring rides for a few $'s) ; Lost Ledge (Kancamangus East) , Echo Crag (best covered in the new guidebook "The Notches" by Jon Sykes, although MtnProjct has several of the "standard" routes) and maybe even Sugarloaf (Zealand Road). |
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Attitash Crag is another one that comes to mind, especially if its warm and sunny. Easy to setup TR's on the slab side, just walk around. fun sport/mixed climbing on the right. |
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Yup...but be advised you have to wade across the Saco river. It's gotta be low to do it. Also, most climbs are in the 5.7-5.8+ range; maybe a bit stiff for "very first timers". |
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Rivers are really low right now |