New and Experienced Climbers over 50

Señor Arroz wrote:

I'm pretty sure that climb is "Sexy Grandma," correct? If so, that's a great goal and awesome symbolism, too.

I've never used the term "kedge" but find that always having a big physical goal I'm working toward is a very helpful mental motivator. Past ones include riding a century (100 miles all at once), big climbs, etc. My current climbing goal is the E. Buttress of Whitney. In that case it's not the climbing that's the real challenge but, rather, getting the logistics all taken care of to get it done. 

That's it!  Sexy Grandma!  I'll check out your E. Buttress after I get off work... sounds like a worthy challenge!  Thanks for sharing!   

My Kedge is GETTING OFF THE NET and getting out! Pulled 30 pitches over the last 3 days! What did you do? I love being old! 

Jeff constine wrote: My Kedge is GETTING OFF THE NET and getting out! Pulled 30 pitches over the last 3 days! What did you do? I love being old! 

Oh, man, Jeff!  That's inspirational!  Where is it?  Can I follow? :-)  
Here's the deal... I love connecting with everyone and getting whatever support and ideas on the ground, when not climbing.  I'm at work today, and happy to check in to see what's up here.  
That's a great picture.  Wish I could've seen this climb!  (How old?) 

Yesterdays Secret spot.

This may be yawn-worthy for some, but I think it's important.  In my business I read a lot of medical studies, and I've kept an eye out for dietary interventions that might give a person over 50 an edge, protect lean muscle, and improve performance and recovery. We fall apart for some reason... bones go, heart goes, strength goes... and it can't all be reduced to 'age'.  (Maybe lack of mustard?)  Anyway, over the last few years, the studies that are positive for older people have been mostly about additional protein.  Below is an excerpt from a 29 page report, but the bottom line is that the addition of a few protein shakes a day, or more vigilance to have meat, eggs, milk at every meal, could improve post climbing recovery, and increase strength and agility into old age.     Somewhere between 90-120 grams of protein a day is the sweet spot... and that's a lot of protein!     

"Building and maintaining muscle mass is not only of importance to athletes. Aging is associated with a
progressive loss of skeletal muscle mass (known medically as sarcopenia) and strength.
Sarcopenia may increase the risk of falls in older adults (Clynes, Calcif Tissue Int 2015). Resistance-type
exercise training has been established as an effective strategy to prevent or even reverse age-related
loss of skeletal muscle and strength. It has been shown that protein supplementation after resistancetype
exercising increases post-exercise muscle protein synthesis and inhibits muscle protein
breakdown, helping muscle to build during the post-exercise recovery period. This finding explains the
emergence of "recovery" drinks which typically contain about 10 to 20 grams of protein per serving in
addition to the carbohydrates and minerals traditionally found in sports drinks.
A review of 22 studies found that protein supplementation also increases muscle mass and strength gains during prolonged resistance-type exercise training programs in both younger and older
individuals (Cermak, Am J Clin Nutr 2012). Specifically, after training two to five times a week over
periods of ranging from 6 to 24 weeks, subjects getting supplemental protein gained an additional 1.5 lbs
of muscle and could leg press an additional 30 lbs compared to subjects not getting the extra protein.

A three month study in Brazil among older women (average age 67) who normally participated in regular
resistance exercise (about 3 days per week) found that, compared to placebo, 35 grams of whey protein
consumed immediately after exercise significantly increased lean soft tissue (muscle, tendons, etc.) (3.8%
vs. 2%) and muscle strength as measured by volume load (45.4% vs 35.4%). Women who consumed
whey protein also had a greater reduction in a cardiovascular risk measure, the ratio of total cholesterol to
high density lipoprotein, which decreased 11.8% versus a 2.9% decrease in the placebo group. There
were no significant changes in body fat in either group

I have long pondered this goat.  No upper body grasping... and apparently no fear.  Just, hooves?     But there's something to be learned here.  
Meanwhile, back at the gym this week, I have learned with a real awakening that this (gym climbing) isn't anything like outdoors.  I muscled up the indoor climbs, was in a complete sweaty heap, and enjoyed it immensely, but it's just a different sport.  No cracks. No slab.  No stemming.  And indoors hooves wouldn't help a bit....

Lori Milas wrote: I have long pondered this goat.  No upper body grasping... and apparently no fear.  Just, hooves?     But there's something to be learned here.  
Meanwhile, back at the gym this week, I have learned with a real awakening that this (gym climbing) isn't anything like outdoors.  I muscled up the indoor climbs, was in a complete sweaty heap, and enjoyed it immensely, but it's just a different sport.  No cracks. No slab.  No stemming.  And indoors hooves wouldn't help a bit....

Slab is the bomb.......no hands, no problem....... lunch on the wall......even bombier..... ;)

Gym climbing is pretty different than outdoors. It's most like overhanging jug routes. But, depending on the gym, you may find some high-angle slab, stemming (the BRC, where I climb, has several challenging stemming corners), and even a crack.

John Barritt wrote:

Slab is the bomb.......no hands, no problem....... lunch on the wall......even bombier..... ;)

Yes and you have amazing pictures to prove it!

Lori Milas wrote:

Yes and you have amazing pictures to prove it!

It's mostly done with mirrors and camera angles....... ;)

I have saved pictures that to me are incredulous, and this is one of them.  There are some on MP with great slab skills.  Can you explain how does one do this... safely?  I am getting better and better at slab climbing (mixed in with cracks).  But is this guy for real?  How?  (better shoes, ropes, courage?)  What happens if you lose a foothold?  

Everything you need to know about slab.

1. The holds are usually bigger than you think once you get up there.
2.  Trust and weight your feet first and foremost and they will stick.
3. Hands are just for balance until it gets steep.
4. When drowning in the bathtub or in trouble on slab, stand up.

No rope no hope lol!@suiside it's not the fall that kills you it's the sudden impact at the end of the fall. People solo all the time some live some die.

Solo it and find out.

John Barritt wrote: Everything you need to know about slab.

1. The holds are usually bigger than you think once you get up there.
2.  Trust and weight your feet first and foremost and they will stick.
3. Hands are just for balance until it gets steep.
4. When drowning in the bathtub or in trouble on slab, stand up.

John he’s already standing! How much more standing could this guy be? Looks to me like if he BREATHES wrong he’s in for a long slide on his belly, best case.  

Jeff constine wrote:

Solo it and find out.

Good God, Jeff!  This gives me the shakes. 

looks like the guy is on the Flake 5.8 if so the biz is the first 15 feet the rest is like 5.6 where the guy is at.

The shots I posted were on Ocean Of Night 5.10a R the other one is W.A.C 5.8 JoshuaTree.

Jeff constine wrote: The shots I posted were on Ocean Of Night 5.10a R the other one is W.A.C 5.8 JoshuaTree.

I knew it!!! WAC is one of my favorite climbs. I thought I recognized that route! Of course I’m safely on top rope. You made it look great! No idea if I could manage Ocean of Night....yet. 

Lori Milas wrote:

I knew it!!! WAC is one of my favorite climbs. I thought I recognized that route! Of course I’m safely on top rope. You made it look great! No idea if I could manage Ocean of Night....yet. 

The difference between 5.8 slab and 5.10 slab is like 5.2......you can do 5.2 any day...... ;)