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Best moderate well protected Adirondack slabs

Original Post
CrimpDaddy WesP · · Chattanooga!! · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 3,515

Looking for some good multipitch trad slabs for beginners with good protection. Strong climbers, but getting practice  placing gear. I know there are great classics with easy runouts, but lm curious if there are also decent climbs with good protection so youre not runout 20ft at a time. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Adam Hammer · · CT · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 514

Rogers rock 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Little finger is very well protected. the rest of the stuff at rogers makes you think a bit. 

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
CrimpDaddy-WesP wrote: I know there are great classics with easy runouts, but lm curious if there are also decent climbs with good protection so youre not runout 20ft at a time

Could get more accurate help/advice if defined what you mean by "easy".

There are very few slab routes _anywhere_ in the world (outside a select few places in Europe) which do not have 20ft run-outs.

Note that the scrambling descents from some classic Dacks slab routes are almost more strenuous and adventurous than the upward-climbing route itself.

Ken

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Check out Crane Mountain.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,846

There's a couple of great "practice lead" cracks at Beer Walls just below and to the right of the "junction" of Upper and Lower.  Also the Afternoon Delight area; Sword is nice (rap in, P1's a bit grungy)  Labatt-Ami protects nicely, as does Lichtenbrau.  Pegasus was once, but a hold broke off and it's now both more difficult and (I've heard) harder to protect the crux. Turbocharge 5.10a but a "tricky" crux is also well protected (you can "French Free" the crux) and the climbing above the crux is great.

Adam suggested Rogers Rock...nice but you canoe in.  Also, Little Finger (with the 5.7 "direct" finish is the only "place gear", well protected climb on the cliff, although the others are mostly bolted in good placements.

Country Club Crack at Jewels and Jems, and the corner on the right (forget the name)

Quadraphenia on Hurrricane, esp P1, is well protected.  P2 has a bit of a run-out (esp. if the pin is gone??) and the traverse is tricky to do without jamming the rope.  (Put a large nut in the end of the OH before going up the corner, so the rope doesn't go inside the corner-crack)

Chapel Pond Gully Cliff has a one or two nice, well protected climbs.  Check MtnPrjct and the guidebook, 2nd Ed.

There are also some OK-to-Protect climbs at Barkeater cliff, esp. the ones on the far right.  (plus a few good bolted routes)

Enjoy !

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Clippity Do Da @ rumny is the only closely bolted slab route that I an think of..

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Catharsis at Poke O Moonshine.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 124

Catharsis, it you condider  3 pieces per  pitch well protected. Well protected slab in the  dacks   is an oxymoron.  Over at Marshfield in Vermont is a climb called just for Goobs and the first three pitches are slab and I think you get like 4 or 5 pieces per pitch but it's probably wet til Midsummer and close for Peregrine's anyhow most  slab that is not runout is bolt protected

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

First off - lots of folks (sport climbers mostly) call anything that's not overhanging "a slab".  But in the ADKs, a slab means a friction climb. And to the OP's question, there is only one reasonably well protected friction climb there: Little Finger at Rogers Rock. If you can arrange the approach, it's a fantastic outing.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,640
kenr wrote:

Could get more accurate help/advice if defined what you mean by "easy".

This.  5.7 slab is very committing to those unfamiliar.  There's plenty of easier, vertical climbs in the ADKs to learn to lead on as previously mentioned (my vote for Afternoon Delight, North Country Club Crack).

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Frankly, nothing comes to mind for "well protected" slab as far as moderates go. I thought Catharsis was reasonable, but I have climbed almost all the slab routes at Whitehorse and some 5.10-5.11 slabs here and there, so maybe I am jaded. Carry on!

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,846

Re' Catharsis -  and why I didn't include it in the list of "beginning leader climbs" :
1) Setting a good belay at the end of P2 -  The cracks are are thin (or if they are large enough for decent sized cams they are actually lose).  The key crack used to have a pin as the "base" for the belay (is it still there?) , but you still needed wire nuts and TCU's to set up a good belay.  and
2) It's really easy to get off route on the last pitch and follow the arching crack system into 5.8-or-so-land; also about the only thing that "protects" the last move of significance on this pitch (the step over the last overlap) is a small wire nut ("brassy" is best), otherwise you're "on" the pin and your-back-up-nut 20 ft below.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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