Best place and route to Trad Climb for Beginners

Where is a good place to learn trad?  I've followed a few routes in the 5.7, 5-8 area, but I've never lead one and I want to practice placing protection and eventually start on easy routes.

Preferably close to Los Angeles.  Next closest Location for beginners I can think of is Joshua Tree.

Thank you!

saddle peak has several very easy trad or mixed routes. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106396557/saddle-peak

I learned to lead in Idyllwild and Joshua Tree. There are plenty of easy-moderates to choose from at Tahquitz and a few at Suicide.

If you just want to practice on the ground, Stoney Point is fine. Plenty of space to play around with placements, anchors, etc. As far as actually leading, just make the trip to Joshua Tree or Idyllwild.

Saddle Peak is nice for this because you can walk up to the anchors and set up a top rope. Then do a mock lead while on TR. 

Ending Crack in Sespe Gorge is 5.7 and looks pretty easy. Bolted anchor setup and I think only 2 pitches. I heard this route can get crowded on the weekends. 

Sespe Gorge “Black wall” on Hwy 33 if you’re up for a little more of a drive. The first pitch of ending crack is great and super easy to protect, wish it was my first trad lead. Shoot me a pm if you’re in the area

after typing all of that I saw Don’s post. Second the motion of “can” get crowded on the weekend. Weekdays your the only group at the crag

woodson bruh....look for the locol burchyyyy tell him MP sent ya :thumbsup:

Wait, what? I just noticed the OP is also named Don and lives in Gardena!!!

Don Ton, HMU if you want to climb. I climb at Sender One during the week and get outside as much as possible when I’m not on a show (tv work). 

I go to Joshua Tree often and don't mind showing people the ropes.  I know many routes for a people to start out their leading career.  Give me a shout.  Maybe heading out this Sunday.  

It really depends on what you mean by "beginner?" What's your ability level on a bolted sport lead? Where are the trad climbs that you followed? Why not lead one of those now? Do you know how to build gear anchors or do you need a bolted top anchor?

There are several great climbs at J-Tree and at Suicide Rock that I'm thinking of where you can place endless gear from fairly secure stances. That's the key. 

I would say Joshua Tree is your best bet for quantity of moderates. Go do everything on the right side of Atlantis wall multiple in the 5.7-5.5 grade that eat gear. The bong 5.5 on the blob by hidden valley CG can place gear the whole way just be prepared for an exposed walk off very easy and fun (half the experience if you ask me). The thin wall has some easy moderates as well that eat gear. Dairy Queen wall another plethora of moderates. Just to name a few and you can top rope some of the harder stuff in those areas as well while your there. JTree can be very humbling, just keep that in mind.

S. Lucas wrote:

Idyllwild is defintely not a good location for learning.  

Jtree has plenty of moderates to learn on, even as a budding leader. And I would imagine you'll find more climbers there available to glean information from. 

Another nod to Saddle Peak if you need to stay super local. There's at least a few cracks to practice placements. It's mostly slab though. 

damn!!! so that's why I'm a crappy climber... wish someone told ME that Idyllwild was not the place to learn back when the glaciers were still licking the mountain hamlet... 

S. Lucas wrote:

Idyllwild is defintely not a good location for learning.  

Jtree has plenty of moderates to learn on, even as a budding leader. And I would imagine you'll find more climbers there available to glean information from. 

Another nod to Saddle Peak if you need to stay super local. There's at least a few cracks to practice placements. It's mostly slab though. 

I disagree with this sentiment. T&S is the best place to learn now to climb IMHO. With smooth stone, many very easy old classics with great pro, ledges with trees to belay from and enjoy the view. 

At Josh ANY fall, no matter how short, can give you big road rash and broken and twisted ankles are a common occurrence. And at JT there is the ever preset danger of ground fall if only one piece fails. And good protection is hard to get with the uneven cracks and pods. 

But wherever you go, make sure to use some caution, do not base your expectations on the grade you can TR or how hard you send on plastic. 

Have fun

x15x15 wrote:

damn!!! so that's why I'm a crappy climber... wish someone told ME that Idyllwild was not the place to learn back when the glaciers were still licking the mountain hamlet... 

Yeah me too! I never knew I learned to climb in such a poor location. I had no idea that the 50 or so 5.7 and under climbs found at Tahquitz and Suicide were not appropriate for beginners. 

Yes for the purpose of the Southern California form T&S is Tahquits and Suicide.

S. Lucas wrote:

Idyllwild is defintely not a good location for learning.  

Jtree has plenty of moderates to learn on, even as a budding leader. And I would imagine you'll find more climbers there available to glean information from. 

Another nod to Saddle Peak if you need to stay super local. There's at least a few cracks to practice placements. It's mostly slab though. 

Never, ever put T&S in a bad light in any way, shape or form as it's sacred ground or the elders will come after ya.  As you have experienced.    

S. Lucas wrote:

The takeaway was this (since it was obivously missed): Heading to Idy wihtout a partner/mentor that is experienced is not ideal. If the OP is following 7/8s, leading up traiter horn out of the gate might not be a great idea. For crissake just tryign to get the guy headed out in a good way, fellas. How about helping him instead of trolling me. 

I think all we're trying to say is that people have learned to climb here for close to 100 years. The only thing different now is we have better protection, better ropes, and better shoes (and evidently a less adventurous spirit). There is value in learning to route find on easier routes and learning to assess the quality of rock early in your career. I have really fond memories of learning to climb up here with friends who were learning right along with me. To say one should only come up here with more experienced partners is selling yourself short. All it takes is a level head, willingness to go slow and back off when needed. By the time more advanced partners were willing to climb with me, I was competent enough that they didn't absolutely hate the experience. It's certainly not the only way to learn, but if I could go back to my early days, I wouldn't change a thing.

We're only trolling you because we've actually done what you're saying he shouldn't do.

S. Lucas wrote:

Yes, that was an attempt at a joke.

I get that...

kevin trieu wrote:

Never, ever put T&S in a bad light in any way, shape or form as it's sacred ground or the elders will come after ya.  As you have experienced.    

So kevin..... come after You? For what? 

You’re opinion is just as valid as any other? 

Ryan Strickland wrote:

I think all we're trying to say is that people have learned to climb here for close to 100 years. The only thing different now is we have better protection, better ropes, and better shoes (and evidently a less adventurous spirit). There is value in learning to route find on easier routes and learning to assess the quality of rock early in your career. I have really fond memories of learning to climb up here with friends who were learning right along with me. To say one should only come up here with more experienced partners is selling yourself short. All it takes is a level head, willingness to go slow and back off when needed. By the time more advanced partners were willing to climb with me, I was competent enough that they didn't absolutely hate the experience. It's certainly not the only way to learn, but if I could go back to my early days, I wouldn't change a thing.

We're only trolling you because we've actually done what you're saying he shouldn't do.

I learned to trad climb at Tahquitz and Suicide. Since it's come up, I'd say that if he's assuming the role of "leader" instead of just leading some pitches while climbing with a more experienced mentor I'd direct him to Suicide, simply because it has more 1 pitch climbs and easier route finding. My read on his question was that he's looking to find some climbs where he can focus on placements and practice that without worrying about other aspects. A climb like Finger Lickin' Good at Suicide is a dream come true for that sort of practice. He could also climb the 1st pitch of Graham Crackers since it has rap rings at the belay ledge. And there are a bunch of even easier climbs to the right of that.

Tahquitz requires more ability to navigate, IMO, even on easier climbs like the Trough. And, of course, the OP should probably keep in mind that both Tahquitz and Suicide are total sandbags compared to where he may have previously climbed, and a 5.8 there might be considerably more stout than expected.

Ryan Strickland wrote:

I think all we're trying to say is that people have learned to climb here for close to 100 years. The only thing different now is we have better protection, better ropes, and better shoes (and evidently a less adventurous spirit). There is value in learning to route find on easier routes and learning to assess the quality of rock early in your career. I have really fond memories of learning to climb up here with friends who were learning right along with me. To say one should only come up here with more experienced partners is selling yourself short. All it takes is a level head, willingness to go slow and back off when needed. By the time more advanced partners were willing to climb with me, I was competent enough that they didn't absolutely hate the experience. It's certainly not the only way to learn, but if I could go back to my early days, I wouldn't change a thing.

We're only trolling you because we've actually done what you're saying he shouldn't do.

Well said Ryan...IMHO... only..... so please don’t “come after me”...People get a false sense of safety when climbing at Josh. Being close to the ground, with minimal exposure, your climbing buds standing right there cheering you on and giving beta, is a much different experience from the one you can enjoy up on pitch three on T&S.... 

So to the OP... go get your feet wet, if going to T&S do not go jump on Trator Horn... maybe Jensions Jaunt or Gram Crackers. But have fun.