Ask a Badass: Alex Honnold

S W A G

Alex Honnold wrote:

Amandala. The only route that doesn't feel like a slab...

Thanks Alex for answering. 

I can't say what it feels like, but would certainly agree that it doesn't look like a slab. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/amandla/106197952 

Alex Honnold wrote:

That's an interesting question, and something I've thought about a bit. I agree that to send harder routes, like 9a, I'd need to TRY harder. Breathe heavily and fight to the death and all that. But real effort doesn't come easy to me - I tend to keep things at a 5 or 6/10 effort rather than fighting all the way to a 9 or 10. When I freed the Shaft in a day on El Cap [35 pitch 13c or so] I went to the absolute death, so much so that my partner burst out laughing because he'd never heard me wailing so much. But that kind of effort is really rare for me. Which is probably a good thing for alpinism or soloing, but certainly doesn't help for performance sport climbing. 

I'm curious what your project was that I climbed? 

Blue Light District in Ten Sleep. 13- or so. I tried it the first time right after you onsighted it. I think you offered to hang the draws for me.

It was pretty fun and flowed well so I think I'll get back to it next time I am up there.

Did your limestone travels this summer bring you closer to your goal of climbing a 9a sport route?

GoBoy wrote:

Alex,

Gate in, or gate out?

Gate in, not that it matters. Just the way that I've done it since I was a kid. 

Jordan Palamos wrote:

Hi Alex,

I read this article yesterday about the "fear center" of the brain (amygdala) being related to altrusim: http://www.npr.org/sections/13.7/2017/10/10/555070329/what-drives-some-people-to-take-personal-risks-to-help-strangers. It basically says that people with very active amygdalas may empathize better with others in a time of need and act more altruistically. Also, there are articles out there that describe your brain scans that say you have an underactive amygdala. These two pieces of research would indicate that you should be less likely to help others when it would pose a considerable risk to yourself (like donating a kidney). On the other hand, you are well known for all your philanthropic ventures through your foundation, so you're not a total psychopath.

So my question is, do you think you would face a serious risk to your own health/fitness in order to help a stranger?

That's a tough question for anyone. I don't think I could, and my amygdala is extremely active when runout haha. I just find the neuroscience fascinating, although obviously we can't draw any conclusions about specific individuals from this little article.

That's an interesting question. In general, I think I'd be willing to risk harm to help a stranger. Maybe not donating a kidney to a stranger [but probably for a loved one], but certainly diving into a river to help someone drowning or something like that. 

But it's funny, even though I have my foundation and care deeply about the fate of the earth and populations in general it's hard for me to care that much about individuals. I support a universal basic income, which is probably the best way to help the homeless. But I never care that much about the plight of a specific pan handler. 

Though I have no idea if any of that has anything to do with my amygdala... maybe those are perfectly normal opinions. Or maybe I'm a psycho. I think I'm pretty normal, though doesn't everybody think that about themselves? 

Alex Honnold wrote:

Gate in, not that it matters. Just the way that I've done it since I was a kid. 

FINALLY, A VOICE OF REASON!!

Alex Honnold wrote:

That's an interesting question. In general, I think I'd be willing to risk harm to help a stranger. Maybe not donating a kidney to a stranger [but probably for a loved one], but certainly diving into a river to help someone drowning or something like that. 

But it's funny, even though I have my foundation and care deeply about the fate of the earth and populations in general it's hard for me to care that much about individuals. I support a universal basic income, which is probably the best way to help the homeless. But I never care that much about the plight of a specific pan handler. 

Though I have no idea if any of that has anything to do with my amygdala... maybe those are perfectly normal opinions. Or maybe I'm a psycho. I think I'm pretty normal, though doesn't everybody think that about themselves? 

Yeah interesting to think about. For the river example: it might be actually be smarter to stay on the shore keeping eyes on the victim and looking for a rope or something instead of making yourself a victim too. Making the correct decision would require clearheaded calculation, rather than an emotional response to immediately jump in and help.

Similarly, your UBI example would likely be way more effective at combating homelessness than relying on individual's (emotionally triggered) handouts. In my opinion many problems could be solved if more people would engage in clearheaded analytical thought rather than snap emotional judgements. For many people mindfullness meditation techniques can help us to recognize when thoughts and emotions bubble up; let them go; and then think more deeply about the issue.  If anyone's interested in more about this I would recommend the new book by Robert Wright about evolutional psychology and secular Buddhism. If some individual's specific neurophysiology does not generate a constant stream of emotional garbage then they can be more naturally analytical.  Maybe this comment is going off the rails. But maybe, Alex, you are climbing's enlightened Buddah?

Hi Alex, 

Not sure if this was asked before. 

You've discussed many times your training regimen, workouts, finger boarding etc. Care to share some of your routines for avoiding injury, rehabbing minor/moderate/serious injuries, do you have a physical therapist, non climbing related workouts you do to preserve your longevity?  I'm a firefighter, skier, off-road racer and climber for many years respectively and have some stubborn injuries as many of us likely do.  What and how do you plan to stay healthy for decades to come? 

Thanks for your time btw. 

Scott

Alex my boy,   

 Can you answer question # 1

What question would you ask yourself? You've probably been asked a million different questions through interviews and what not, but what's something that no one has really asked you about yourself or your climbing that you would want people to know about? Something you would want us to know but no one has bothered to ask?

Hello Alex, 

I love climbing history. Movies and Books. They get me super psyched to climb.  I have read your book, loved it. Thanks for sharing! Tommy's "The Push" K. Cordes "The Tower" is awesome  I loved Hans book"On the Nose" which i just finished last night.  

What are your favorite climbing books? 

Thanks again, You inspire us all to seek out what is important to us. 

Best 

Michael 

Can you be my rope gun for a day? I need someone with a dry sense of humor. 

Alex, there is intense controversy over what you think is the worst crag you’ve ever climbed on. It’s been reported you gave this honour to Avon Gorge (old quarry next to a freeway, in Bristol, UK). Others suggest it was Cheddar Gorge (75% veg., 25% rock, near Bristol). Local bragging rights depend on your answer. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/113708780

A L E X

for you

duncan... wrote:

Alex, there is intense controversy over what you think is the worst crag you’ve ever climbed on. It’s been reported you gave this honour to Avon Gorge (old quarry next to a freeway, in Bristol, UK). Others suggest it was Cheddar Gorge (75% veg., 25% rock, near Bristol). Local bragging rights depend on your answer. 

I don't think I've actually been to Avon Gorge - I've only heard Hazel talk shit about it. But my experience at Cheddar Gorge was one of the worst climbing days of my life. I warmed up on some short, sharp 7b+ in the rain. And then we left. It was heinous. But it made me appreciate why Brits don't really warm up - they never know when it's going to start raining so they just hop straight on their project. 

Hey Alex,

Since you're reading these, I just wanted to thank you for being a conscientious and thoughtful figure on the pro climbing scene. I'm inspired by your vegetarian diet and your dedication towards making the world a better place, with not just your badass climbing but your foundation and everything else. It all seems very genuine and it's great to see. Keep it up.

Varun

EDIT: forgot to say also, thanks for the mossy.earth recommendation. Looks like a sweet way to start offsetting your carbon footprint

Hey Alex I met you in person once in Squamish near the slackline area, around August 2010. You had just soloed Half Dome earlier that summer (maybe I'm confusing the timeline here) and I was pretty awe struck to see you in person. I finally got the courage to talk to you and it went something like this:

Me: "hey are you Alex Honnold?"

Alex: "yeah"

<awkward silence as I had not prepared a follow up>

Me: "cool"

Have you gotten better at chit-chat since then (have I? Not sure about that one either.)

I'm surprised no one has asked you about the Honnold foundation.  How did it all start?  I'm really interested in one day doing something kinda similar and am wondering of how you dealt with the business aspect and the motivation to get it moving along.  Any insight is appreciated.  Thanks!

If "vacation" is defined as escaping from paid work to go have fun, what the heck does a pro climber do for vacation?? Sit in a cubicle shuffling papers? Mop someone's bathroom?

Best, H.

Mike Womack wrote:

I'm surprised no one has asked you about the Honnold foundation.  How did it all start?  I'm really interested in one day doing something kinda similar and am wondering of how you dealt with the business aspect and the motivation to get it moving along.  Any insight is appreciated.  Thanks!

Listen to his enormocast episode