Ask a Badass: Alex Honnold

Hi Alex, 

What is your favorite route at Index? 

Thanks- 

I have just been gifted, yet again, with some gear from a fellow MPer.

As a new/old climber, I have been so fortunate to have so many people help me out, with encouragement, kindness and random stuff to help me pursue climbing.

Honestly? The friendship is the best.

I simply have to ask, way back when, before you were famous, what was the most unexpected help or gift you received? Have you had the opportunity to totally surprise others, and gift them somehow?

Best, OLH

Alex, I know you live in your van and was wondering what the hardest adjustment to van life was for you and how you adjusted.

Alex Honnold wrote:

Cookies!! I actually didn't eat any dessert [besides 85% or darker chocolate] for the 4 or 5 months prior to Freerider. I was just trying to stay disciplined and train well. I did wind up losing a bit of weight [in the 4 or 5 pound range?] but that was probably also due to the high volume of climbing/cardio I was doing. 

Post Freerider I've been eating desserts again a bit [and I'm back to my more normal weight] but it's still pretty limited. Like once a week desserts or so. I find that I live better when I'm not eating sugar - better recovery, better habits. But I do love sugar. 

Enjoy your cookie :)

I appreciate the answer and the encouragement, Alex. For now, I'll take your inspiration and cut down on my sugar consumption. But if you ever come to the Bay Area (the Peninsula to be exact), ping me and I will treat you to the very best dessert in the whole Bay Area. The bakery downstairs is really THAT good! A total work place hazard.

I don't think anyone can accuse you of lacking discipline. I still cannot get over your hangboarding session right after Freerider because you "do hangboarding training every other day and today is the other day!" 

Alex Honnold wrote:

Sorry I'm so sporadic in my answering - while this has been going I've flown from Europe to NYC and back for an event. I haven't slept much in a while. And haven't had much real computer time. 

I'm not sure if there's actually a time limit but I was planning on answering a bunch more questions. Feel free to keep them coming. I'll definitely get to more. I just need more time to type. 

This has to be a labor of love. Your continued contribution is not expected, which makes it even more impressive. Way to over-deliver, Alex!

An important question: Would you be open to getting on TrainingBeta podcast series to talk about 

• specifics of your training before Freerider, 
• general training for mega endurance day (like your triple linkup), 
• and future training thoughts for what you intend to achieve next -- 5.15 sports, etc.

The hostess Neely is not a trad climber (as she admitted so herself while interviewing Hans Florine), so you might have to take initiative to answer questions that she may not know to ask, but with your openness, I'm sure many listeners can learn from your wisdom besides getting inspired and entertained. If your answer is yes, I'll ask my agent to contact your agent to talk to Neely's agent to set it up. Actually, skip my agent. 

BTW, I really enjoyed your most recent interview on Enormocast. Thanks!

Josh Gates wrote:

One of the things that I've really appreciated about my recent (3 years) switch to climbing is that, unlike all of the sports popular in the US, there's a more supportive/less cutthroat vibe, even at competitions. Folks cheer for each other, help each other, etc., instead of trying to run each other down - nobody boos a climber, you know? I like that my son will grow up in that environment, and I'm holding off on those other sports for him as long as I can. Have you had similar experiences, and is that something that drew you to climbing? You seem like a pretty chill guy who wouldn't be into the nonsense of trash talking and all of the other stuff that go along with basketball, football, soccer, etc. (as they're often played).

jg

That's always been one of the things I really appreciate about climbing as well. I like the positive community [the occasional forum wars aside..]. I think it helps that climbing isn't an inherently competitive sport - it's so much more personal than ball sports. It's not zero sum - one person succeeding doesn't have to mean someone else going home disappointed. 

But I never played any other sports so I can't really compare. I was drawn to climbing because it was fun. I loved the playful movement. It never really felt like a "sport".

Andy Novak wrote:

Alex,

Would you rather be forced to climb the Nose siege style over 10 days sharing a ledge with some yuppie/hippe hybrid named 'Braxton' who climbs/juggs/hauls like shit, drops/smashes your cookies, insists on streaming only conservative radio and with epic halitosis, foot fungus and explosive flatulence

OR,

Solo the Monster offwidth naked in a rain storm. At night. With spiders.  

Hahaha, I can't see anything wrong with soloing the Monster again. . . Night doesn't make any difference. Naked matters but not that much as long as I get climbing shoes. Rain would be a bummer, but certainly manageable. And all of those are better than hanging with Braxton for a week and a half. 

Jon Nelson wrote:

Hi Alex, 

What is your favorite route at Index? 

Thanks- 

Amandala. The only route that doesn't feel like a slab...

Kat Hessen wrote:

I already asked a question a few pages ago, but I'm feeling wonderfully entitled today. A couple days ago I was hanging out at my neighbor's garage watching him split an old VW engine case, when his buddy (a climber with his arm in a sling) explained that if his elbow didn't recover from a recent dislocation injury, he'd give up climbing. His logic was that with an injured elbow, he would never be the best climber he could possibly be, so he'd rather give it up. All or nothing.

While the above sounds a tad extreme, I can sorta relate to the general sentiment (unstable shoulders kept me off the rock for 3 years, and I still act like they hold me back). It got me thinking -- all these climbers who ARE the world's best, and who appear largely indestructible to the spectator..do you superhumans live with reoccurring injuries/chronic pain? 

I've never come across an article or interview where you've detailed a specific injury or handicap. If you do have injuries/weaknesses/pain that you deal with, can you share your secret to still being an absolute shredsled? Also, will you ever distill your post-send sweat and market it to us, snake-oil style? I'll take eighteen vials of Eau d'Honnold, thanks.

I've had random injuries over the years and have just had to deal with them like anyone else. Many years ago I had some chronic elbow pain that I never really did figure out. After nagging pain for almost a year I finally took several months totally off and it eventually got better.

Since then I've had it pretty good until last year, when I had a string of unfortunate things happen. I got lowered off the end of my rope [tie a knot!] and compression fractured 2 vertebrae [though surprisingly it didn't seem to limit me too much, super lucky I guess]. Then I tore a ligament in my hand in a silly aid climbing fall a few months later. That also wasn't a huge deal but I had to tape several fingers together for the summer to keep my fingers from separating at all. But it was better in a few months. 

Then I fell an severely sprained an ankle, which has taken probably 6 months to actually be pretty normal again. And I'm still not running at all. Or not much anyway. 

All that to say, I think professional climbers deal with injuries just as much as anyone else. I think it's important to stay motivated and keep doing as much as possible, despite an injury. [Being careful not to prolong the injury though]. Most finger injuries can be climbed through if you're careful [I've had plenty of more minor things over the years]. 

I'll probably be all arthritic and crippled when I'm old, but we'll see. . . so far it's going ok, though. 

I won't even address the Eau d'Honnold thing. I don't think there's much of a market. At least I hope not. 

Gavin W wrote:

Hi Alex,

Since it's a timely and important issue, how do you see the sport of climbing being affected by climate change in the next decade or two? 

Also, do you feel like there is any cognitive dissonance between wanting to protect the environment but also going on sponsored trips all over the globe, and if so, how do you deal with that?

Thanks! -Gavin

Climate change is definitely having an impact on climbing. Lots of ice routes no longer form, glaciers are disappearing in the mountains. In only my 3 seasons of going to Patagonia I've seen the approach change on the Torre Glacier [as it's retreated we now hike along the opposite side]. But in general, a warmer, drier climate is probably a good thing for climbing. But it's bad for the rest of the world, particularly the developing world. But I doubt it will wind up affecting climbing nearly as much as it affects the rest of life. 

I don't think I experience cognitive dissonance about the amount that I travel. I've done the math on my carbon emissions several times and have a pretty good sense of how much harm I'm doing to the world. But at the same time I have a pretty good idea about how much of a positive impact my Foundation is having [honnoldfoundation.org] and this year decided to start offsetting my travel in a more direct way [mossy.earth]. And of course I've made a bunch of lifestyle decisions to lower my impact [vegetarian, local non-profit bank, solar on the house, things like that]. 

The thing is - I think I can do more good for the world by traveling then I can by staying at home. Even though I'm burning carbon to travel it allows me to make a positive difference. And, to be fair, we're all harming the earth in our own ways. There are plenty of non professional climbers who probably fly just about as much as I do. I hope that they're equally thoughtful about their impacts. 

Kelsey Wellington wrote:

Hey Alex!  I'm always curious about the books my inspirational team (which you're a member of, congratulations!) are reading.  What three books have really inspired you or ignited something in you or just taught you something new?  They can be related to any subject, not climbing-specific.  I'm constantly on the hunt for new reads!

Also, what condiment can always be found in your fridge?

Thanks so much, and keep kicking ass!

I've been planning on publishing my comprehensive reading list someday, though I've been lagging on it. But off the top of my head, a few books that have made a big impact on me: This Changes Everything by Naomi Klein, A People's History of the US by Howard Zinn.

I really enjoyed The Once and Future World by J B Mackinnon - he's also quite a good climber for what that's worth. 

I've been pretty much only reading nonfiction for quite a long time.

The only condiment in my fridge is tapatio. 

Hi Al, (thats how best friends call you).

Do you think having Dumbo ears is some how a genetic advantage for climbing, maybe giving you more awareness as they work like radar plates?

Are you so humble that even when you think they are an advantage you are going to say they are Not?

The big ear radar awareness advantage, How do you train it?

How can i make my ears grow without surgery?

If you saw the movie Dumbo, You think your life is some how similar? like going to school and being bullyed for having big ears, but then having to climb a crumbling building on fire to save some one (the bully) because you were the only one with "awEARness"?

Ted Pinson wrote:

Not really.  It’s a valid point and true - plants are living things and, as such, die when you eat them.  One could draw the line at Kingdom Animalia or at a certain level of perceived sophistication, or “cuteness” as many people do (hence why they eat cows and chickens but not dogs and cats).

Here's an idea, how about not turning a Honnold AMA into a standard mountainreject argue-fest?

I feel like y'all are my middle school students when we have a guest speaker.

WHAT TYPE OF COOKIE IS YOUR SEND COOKIE

Greg Shea wrote:

WHAT TYPE OF COOKIE IS YOUR SEND COOKIE

Paging Nabisco marketing and athlete sponsor department....

llanSan wrote:

Hi Al, (thats how best friends call you).

Do you think having Dumbo ears is some how a genetic advantage for climbing, maybe giving you more awareness as they work like radar plates?

Are you so humble that even when you think they are an advantage you are going to say they are Not?

The big ear radar awareness advantage, How do you train it?

How can i make my ears grow without surgery?

If you saw the movie Dumbo, You think your life is some how similar? like going to school and being bullyed for having big ears, but then having to climb a crumbling building on fire to save some one (the bully) because you were the only one with "awEARness"?

Dumbo post. Just dumb.

Alex Honnold wrote:

I've had random injuries over the years and have just had to deal with them like anyone else. Many years ago I had some chronic elbow pain that I never really did figure out. After nagging pain for almost a year I finally took several months totally off and it eventually got better.

Since then I've had it pretty good until last year, when I had a string of unfortunate things happen. I got lowered off the end of my rope [tie a knot!] and compression fractured 2 vertebrae [though surprisingly it didn't seem to limit me too much, super lucky I guess]. Then I tore a ligament in my hand in a silly aid climbing fall a few months later. That also wasn't a huge deal but I had to tape several fingers together for the summer to keep my fingers from separating at all. But it was better in a few months. 

Then I fell an severely sprained an ankle, which has taken probably 6 months to actually be pretty normal again. And I'm still not running at all. Or not much anyway. 

All that to say, I think professional climbers deal with injuries just as much as anyone else. I think it's important to stay motivated and keep doing as much as possible, despite an injury. [Being careful not to prolong the injury though]. Most finger injuries can be climbed through if you're careful [I've had plenty of more minor things over the years]. 

I'll probably be all arthritic and crippled when I'm old, but we'll see. . . so far it's going ok, though. 

I won't even address the Eau d'Honnold thing. I don't think there's much of a market. At least I hope not. 

Don't assume arthritis, or even with arthritis, it may not have to slow you down as much as you might think.

For myself, a year ago, one knee bent less than 90°, now it does much, much better. Climbing actually helps me stay mobile.

You're still not beating up your body nearly as badly as many, if not most, other pro athletes, or ballet dancers, for that matter. 

The only sport I have participated in was gymnastics, which combined body and mind similarly to climbing. I dropped out because I didn't enjoy competing.

Best, OLH

Pnelson wrote:

Here's an idea, how about not turning a Honnold AMA into a standard mountainreject argue-fest?

I feel like y'all are my middle school students when we have a guest speaker.

Good point.  I wouldn’t be opposed to admin cleaning it up.  Sorry for the thread drift, TBH I thought he was done.

Hi Alex,

I read this article yesterday about the "fear center" of the brain (amygdala) being related to altrusim: http://www.npr.org/sections/13.7/2017/10/10/555070329/what-drives-some-people-to-take-personal-risks-to-help-strangers. It basically says that people with very active amygdalas may empathize better with others in a time of need and act more altruistically. Also, there are articles out there that describe your brain scans that say you have an underactive amygdala. These two pieces of research would indicate that you should be less likely to help others when it would pose a considerable risk to yourself (like donating a kidney). On the other hand, you are well known for all your philanthropic ventures through your foundation, so you're not a total psychopath.

So my question is, do you think you would face a serious risk to your own health/fitness in order to help a stranger?

That's a tough question for anyone. I don't think I could, and my amygdala is extremely active when runout haha. I just find the neuroscience fascinating, although obviously we can't draw any conclusions about specific individuals from this little article.

Alex,

Gate in, or gate out?