Ice Climbing Gloves

On the hunt for a new pair of gloves for this season. I have been using BD Punishers as well as the Marmot Spring Glove. I like the warmth that comes with the Punisher, but of course you loose dexterity with added insulation and they take a long time to dry out. I like how nimble the Spring Glove is for technical mixed routes and placing pro/building anchors etc. But they get wet easily and once you stop moving your fingers freeze. So I guess I am looking for something in between these two. It does not need to be super warm because at belays I just pull out the thick belay gloves. 

I am currently considering two options. 

Outdoor Research Project Glove: https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/project-gloves/p/2448790001005

Rab Talon Glove: https://rab.equipment/us/accessories-equipment/gloves/talon-glove-4

Does anyone have experience with either of these gloves, or what glove setup has worked best for you? Open to any suggestions and advice. 

2 gloves mininum. 

For climbing, the thinnest you can get away with in the conditions the better. Thicker gloves = gripping harder = less blood flow

The golf glove approach for climbing used by a lot of people is very valid. 

Then at least have a belay glove. Extra liners are handy to do a 2.5 system

I have been using the BD terminators for as long as I can remember. 

I used OR stormtracker for ice (with Rab Guide at the belay)...worked good.

I have used the OR Project gloves for one season now and they are currently my go-to glove for leading. A good compromise between dexterity and warmth. Placing screws with them is no problem.

I've been using Camp Gecko Hot for past couple of seasons, they have been a really good "in the middle" glove as far as insulation. Great grip, no barfies as of yet, and hardly any wear or tear.

I have both the OR and Rab gloves. The OR gloves are my current favorite among the many that I have. The Rab gloves seem kind of stiff or less dexterous, or something. I don't really like them. But, like others have said, you have to have at least 2 pair of gloves because they WILL get wet and freeze. My buddy has the Camp Gecko and really likes them a lot. 

You also want to have a good pair of insulated leather gloves for belaying/rappelling. I have used hardware store gloves in the past with good success. 2 years ago I scored a really good deal on some quality leather ski gloves that are awesome for belaying and rappelling. 

I have the Project Gloves and I feel they're a little too beefy for leading.  They're stuffed with a lot of synthetic insulation - 266 g/m2 on the back of the hand and 60 g/m2 in the palms.

http://www.showagloves.com/showa-282-temres#.WY1JSUFlCaM

$20 on amazon.

AlpineIce wrote:

I have the Project Gloves and I feel they're a little too beefy for leading.  They're stuffed with a lot of synthetic insulation - 266 g/m2 on the back of the hand and 60 g/m2 in the palms.

I must have a different pair of OR gloves then. Mine have no palm insulation and a little on the back of the hand. Hmmm, I wonder what I have. 

For climbing in moderate temperatures, I have given up on fancy "ice climbing" gloves and I climb almost exclusively in thinner windstopper gloves, like the Seirus OZ.

https://www.seirus.com/windstopper-oz-6574.html

Insulated Kincos work great for belaying and rappeling.

Gotta love it; the annual "what glove do you use" question has been opened up! I've gone to $20 leather gloves with Thinsulate from Ace Hardware as my lead glove, with BD Guide glove for belaying, rappelling. But - as others mention - I have a quiver of gloves and have 3-4 pair with me for ice cragging. What I plan to add is a super warm mitten, like the OR. And lots of Snowseal on the leather work gloves  

I've used the project gloves and thought they were ok for mixed, less than warm for long multi pitch.  I like my BD torque gloves for mixed.  I use M10 gloves for warmer days, terminators for colder days, and Poseidons or firebrand for belay gloves depending on temps.

Also on a side note, I've been using liner gloves more and more for shorter warmer climbs, and it works great, they dry out fast, I feel I don't get pumped as much since I have a better feel, down side is obviously warmth, so experiment with that and you might have luck too, instead of buying $300.00+ in gloves.

jon jugenheimer wrote:

I have been using the BD terminators for as long as I can remember. 

Huge +1 on the BD Terminators.  I live in Bozeman, and I'm on ice 40+ days a year.  I don't remember the last time I didn't bring/use the Terminators.  I have lighter gloves and loftier gloves, but these are the go to.  Oh, and I pay for my stuff...no special connections or pro deals. 

NorCalNomad wrote:

2 gloves mininum. 

For climbing, the thinnest you can get away with in the conditions the better. Thicker gloves = gripping harder = less blood flow

The golf glove approach for climbing used by a lot of people is very valid. 

Then at least have a belay glove. Extra liners are handy to do a 2.5 system

You are absolutely correct about thicker gloves = gripping harder. I suppose that would result in less blood flow, but more importantly it increases the pump significantly.

Golf gloves are excellent for dry tooling because of this, but when it comes to pure ice they will absorb too much water with little insulation value imo.

I have a pair of the Rab gloves and find them quite warm, but only tend to use them as belay gloves or when warming up on cold day. I like them a lot, but I will almost always climb ice in a simple pair of fleece liner gloves. Once you are warmed up (i.e. - have the barfies out of your system) you should be able to stay more than warm enough while swinging and climbing.

When dry tooling and wearing golf gloves I am extra diligent about staying warm between burns (and always have belay gloves/mitts on over the golf gloves). 

I seem to be in the minority here, but I think it's a lot easier to train yourself to be dexterous with thicker gloves than it is to train yourself to be warm in thin gloves (which is possible, but only to a point).  

I am also constantly surprised by the idea (widely-held, it seems) that barfies are inevitable and that you just have to get it over with and then you'll be good.  I got barfies when I was younger because I overgripped, or didn't recognize when my fingers were getting cold, but haven't gotten them in years.... 

FWIW, I almost never climb in anything thinner than Punishers, and occasionally in thicker gloves (Enforcers, Alpine Alibis).   I have no trouble placing screws, belaying, etc. etc.  I rarely change into belay gloves or mitts because Punishers are warm enough down to single digits.  This has been true for me for a decade or so, but things got even better when the current generation of tools downsized the grips, allowing for thicker gloves and same hand shape.  

good deals!

http://shop.alpenglowgear.com/black-diamond-punisher-glove-bd_801659/dp/9152

http://shop.alpenglowgear.com/black-diamond-torque-glove-bd_801667/dp/9157

https://www.6pm.com/p/outdoor-research-project-gloves-black/product/8719565/color/3

Is the Kinco fad over?  We're almost to the end of page one and not a single person has recomended using the least dextrous gloves made because they cost $20 and their rad friend wears them and that guy in the ski video and the lifty who they kinda hate but maybe have a little crush on.

Dave Bn wrote:

Is the Kinco fad over?  We're almost to the end of page one and not a single person has recomended using the least dextrous gloves made because they cost $20 and their rad friend wears them and that guy in the ski video and the lifty who they kinda hate but maybe have a little crush on.

Nope, you missed the recommendation for $20 gloves from Ace about half way up the page.  FWIW, I ride my sled in Kincos but I use fancy fragile leather gloves for all of my snowboarding and ski touring and tougher fancy leather gloves for mountaineering.

Anyone else finding the OR Project Glove to long in the fingers?  Got a pair of large (as per the OR recommended sise guide) and I'm returning them due to the fingers being a bit long.

I usually wear OR gloves in size medium but was told since they were "unisex" to go up a size since I tried the Alibi II gloves in a medium a whikje ago and could just BARELY slip my hand past the wrist to get them on! 

Seems like their "unisex" model gloves have odd sizing characteristics which is sad because I love all my other OR gloves which all fit perfectly but are NOT unisex!  

JasonSH wrote:

Anyone else finding the OR Project Glove to long in the fingers?  Got a pair of large (as per the OR recommended sise guide) and I'm returning them due to the fingers being a bit long.

I usually wear OR gloves in size medium but was told since they were "unisex" to go up a size since I tried the Alibi II gloves in a medium a whikje ago and could just BARELY slip my hand past the wrist to get them on! 

Seems like their "unisex" model gloves have odd sizing characteristics which is sad because I love all my other OR gloves which all fit perfectly but are NOT unisex!  

 YES! Some OR gloves fit kinda wonky. Haven’t tried the Projects but got a pair of Alibis. The Alibis in a XL fit perfect except the thumb is about two inches too long. I did some alterations. What really sucks is when glove manufacturers Update the model of glove and change the fit. That fit don’t fit so now you’re on safari to find a pair that does. Boo! A friend sent me a link to the Lodestar glove on sale for $35 a couple three years ago. The glove fit me so well I bought three more pairs. 

 If Kincos don’t fit or you can’t tie in wearing them that shows you suck.