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Ice Climbing Gloves

Jay Morse · · Hooksett, New Hampshire · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
JasonSH wrote:

Anyone else finding the OR Project Glove to long in the fingers?  Got a pair of large (as per the OR recommended sise guide) and I'm returning them due to the fingers being a bit long.

I usually wear OR gloves in size medium but was told since they were "unisex" to go up a size since I tried the Alibi II gloves in a medium a whikje ago and could just BARELY slip my hand past the wrist to get them on! 

Seems like their "unisex" model gloves have odd sizing characteristics which is sad because I love all my other OR gloves which all fit perfectly but are NOT unisex!  

Yes, I've noticed that many OR gloves have ridiculous fingers.  To me, gloves are something you should definitely try on before you buy.  Or at least buy from a vendor with easy returns.  Too tight and they won't insulate well, no matter how expensive and well-reviewed they are.  Too loose, and good luck operating carabiners.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

I too have found OR gloves to have long fingers.  I have a pair of Extraverts, and I like them, but all of the fingers are long, and as such you lose some dexterity.

Jesse Coonce · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5

Interesting to hear about the long fingers in the OR gloves.  I have a pair of Arete's that I plan to use belaying and maybe leading on the coldest days, but have not yet used them at all, but they seem like a decently snug fit for the size(somewhat bulky though, hoping they'll break in a bit).  Also have a pair of Alibi II's on order because they were on sale for $34 CDN, I'm hoping they'll be nice on moderate days, they look like they should have good dexterity if not insulation.  Guess I'll know once they arrive.  I still wear lightly insulated leather work gloves (not Kinco's, maybe those are a U.S. thing?) at least as often as my more expensive manufactured for climbing gloves, but they do suck on wet pitches.

I have a pair of Arcteryx gloves for leading, and though they are nice enough gloves, I got them at nearly 60% off and even then I would likely not buy another pair as they are decent but nothing special for the price.

Ultimately I'd say have lots of gloves to choose from and pick and choose based on conditions.

Slogger · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 80

Just bought a pair of Mountain Equipment Super Alpine gloves, haven't climbed in them yet but the seem to be the most dexterous gloves I've ever worn. Seem fairly warm for a light glove too.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

For those of you talking about Kinko's work gloves, I already own one pair, as my gloves to stay warm on my bike when the temps really plummet, and for the few times I want gloves for yard work, like working an axe.

I have split leather, fleecy inside, which isn't remotely waterproof. Are you all talking about a different version? 

I have two pairs of longer ski type gloves also, waterproof and warm, but I'm  thinking I may want thinner gloves for climbing. 

Total noob, as far as ice goes. I admit I'm getting excited, and really, really hope ice comes in well here this year. It's a crapshoot for Idaho, and generally means single digits, from what I've been told.

I've got small hands and short fingers, so I will have to be trying gloves on, not just ordering online.

I also have some "icicle" tools, so I can try the gloves out at the gym, if I don't sweat straight out of them.

Best, Helen

Jesse Coonce · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5
Old lady H wrote:

For those of you talking about Kinko's work gloves, I already own one pair, as my gloves to stay warm on my bike when the temps really plummet, and for the few times I want gloves for yard work, like working an axe.

I have split leather, fleecy inside, which isn't remotely waterproof. Are you all talking about a different version? 

I have two pairs of longer ski type gloves also, waterproof and warm, but I'm  thinking I may want thinner gloves for climbing. 

Total noob, as far as ice goes. I admit I'm getting excited, and really, really hope ice comes in well here this year. It's a crapshoot for Idaho, and generally means single digits, from what I've been told.

I've got small hands and short fingers, so I will have to be trying gloves on, not just ordering online.

I also have some "icicle" tools, so I can try the gloves out at the gym, if I don't sweat straight out of them.

Best, Helen

Chances are the ski gloves will be overly bulky and not provide adequate dexterity, but give them a try with your training tools and perhaps you will be pleasantly surprised.  The work gloves (and actual climbing specific ones) I have are pretty lightly insulated, but except on the really cold days (-20C and below), I am willing to sacrifice the warmth when I'm actually climbing and just put on warmer ones when I'm belaying or standing around.

I'm the guy that always looks like I have a paunch when ice climbing because I always have a second pair stuffed inside my jacket keeping them warm for when I want to swap them out (plus another 2 pairs in my pack most times as well).

JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90

Yeah love my alpine alibi gloves they're a perfect fit not to bulky, good dexterity. I need to just order a few pair of gloves and try them all on ..return  the rest! 

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

How about cheats like handwarmers on the back of the hand in thin gloves? They don't make my hand feel warm instantly as they blood carries the hear away quickly, but it does feel like it does something. 

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330

Handwarmers can work sometimes. 

Multiple pairs of thin gloves are definitely the best. Bring a thin set of liner gloves for each pitch and warm belay gloves. Will Gaud actually wrote an article on gloves and that's how he climbs. Now that doesn't work for everyone, but he probably has more days out than anyone else, so his advice is definitely worth reading. 

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330

The best leather oil period is obenaufs. It's all natural, we use it on anything leather in the wildland business. It does a pretty good job at keeping things waterproof. Not 100% but pretty darn close. Obenaufs also makes a waterproofing for leather, haven't personally used it, but supposed to be a good product. 

You can get obenaufs from scheels, or their website. The leather oil soaks in great, they also make a thicker stuff, but I'd start with the oil.i use that stuff on my hestra gloves and my BD leather gloves. As well as my fire boots and fire gloves. 

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205
Brassmonkey wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts Icelife.

Any other suggestions or experience with the best waterproofing for gloves?

I used SnoSeal on some Kincos that I use for skiing, and it seemed to make them more grippy. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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