Mounting Hangboard

Hi,

I am putting up a hang board in my garage and need some advice. I have a couple different sizes of 3/4" plywood and furring strips as well. I have a 10"x48" and a 12"x48" plywood to attach my holds. I would like to mount it in my garage as I already have my other workout stuff in there and workout in there almost everyday. I also already put rings up around a couple of the 2"x10" beams.
I would like to mount my hang board, either the 10"x48" or the 12"x 48" (or both) across the 2"x10" beam in the garage. I have read on several websites (atomic climbing holds had a good description of different mounting techniques) but I want to make sure it is ok to put all of the force on one beam, versus most other people that hang it above the door frame, thus bolting into 3 different studs usually.
Basically, is it ok to mount the hang board on just one 2"x10" beam without anything else?
Thank you!

beccaroach wrote:Hi, I am putting up a hang board in my garage and need some advice. I have a couple different sizes of 3/4" plywood and furring strips as well. I have a 10"x48" and a 12"x48" plywood to attach my holds. I would like to mount it in my garage as I already have my other workout stuff in there and workout in there almost everyday. I also already put rings up around a couple of the 2"x10" beams. I would like to mount my hang board, either the 10"x48" or the 12"x 48" (or both) across the 2"x10" beam in the garage. I have read on several websites (atomic climbing holds had a good description of different mounting techniques) but I want to make sure it is ok to put all of the force on one beam, versus most other people that hang it above the door frame, thus bolting into 3 different studs usually. Basically, is it ok to mount the hang board on just one 2"x10" beam without anything else? Thank you!

Yes, a 2 x 10 is plenty for mounting a hangboard, depending on the span you may get a tiny bit of flex, but you'll be fine.

Yes, the screws you use to hang it will break before the beam. For your using 3/4" ply I'd use 2" screws to mount to the 2"x10"

beccaroach wrote:Hi, I am putting up a hang board in my garage and need some advice. I have a couple different sizes of 3/4" plywood and furring strips as well. I have a 10"x48" and a 12"x48" plywood to attach my holds. I would like to mount it in my garage as I already have my other workout stuff in there and workout in there almost everyday. I also already put rings up around a couple of the 2"x10" beams. I would like to mount my hang board, either the 10"x48" or the 12"x 48" (or both) across the 2"x10" beam in the garage. I have read on several websites (atomic climbing holds had a good description of different mounting techniques) but I want to make sure it is ok to put all of the force on one beam, versus most other people that hang it above the door frame, thus bolting into 3 different studs usually. Basically, is it ok to mount the hang board on just one 2"x10" beam without anything else? Thank you!

Yes, the wood is plenty strong. Just make sure the screws are as well.

But what are the furring strips to be used for?

The single beam is plenty strong to support any load you can apply to the hang board. You will want to cross brace the board so it doesn't torque out of the beam. A simple pair of 2x4's from the bottom of the board to the next beam behind will do the trick.

Great, thanks everyone! Regarding the furring strips, I just saw/read different methods of mounting hang boards and several said use some type of furring strips just to give some space between the plywood and wood behind it. Not necessary?

Thanks again! Excited to get it put up.

beccaroach wrote:... Regarding the furring strips, I just saw/read different methods of mounting hang boards and several said use some type of furring strips just to give some space between the plywood and wood behind it. Not necessary? ....

I don't see why the board can't be mounted flush. Anyway, I would mount it flush.

Perhaps those who told you to make the space gave you a reason? Maybe they were thinking of a different setup than the one you have.

I would suggest installing additional bracing to adjacent joists to reduce the twisting and minor are sagging that occurs when you load the board. My experience has been that when you are working a maximal effort hang it disrupts your groove when the whole thing sags a bit. You're trying to milk the grip 'just so' and the whole thing feels mushy - no bueno. I would install 2 x 10 blocking to both adjacent joists, both left and right of the board. Attach them with heavy duty structural screws to suck everything in tight. That should do a good job of stiffening up the assembly. Happy training!

Here's a shot from years ago of how I mounted my old DRCC V512 (replaced with screw-on holds on the other side, then replaced again with a Trango RPTC, then I moved a couple months ago and had to disassemble, I miss my hangboard!)

Will S wrote:Here's a shot from years ago of how I mounted my old DRCC V512 (replaced, then replaced again with a Trango RPTC, then I moved a couple months ago and had to disassemble, I miss my hangboard!)

ILL buy your RPTC from you lol... my metolius is on the way out...

^^^
No interest in selling mine, just haven't mounted at my new home. Easy enough to buy a brand new one, which has a few improvements over the original version - better texture, tiny crimp edge isn't as flexy. I'd buy it again for sure:

trango.com/p-232-rock-prodi…

The screws are the important point, beam is plenty burly. I used #10 gauge, SPAX self-drilling/self-tapping, torx/star drive screws for mounting the backer board to beams or columns. They're expensive fasteners, and I still drilled pilot holes (even with the self-tapping, I still like to drill a pilot about half the diameter of a normal pilot hole). The combo of self-tap and a torx/star head is great, won't strip the heads, easy to drive, easy to disassemble. I've also re-used these SPAX screws multiple times, so I definitely got my $8 out of them.

Important thing on the hardware is the gauge of the screw. #10 is about right for most of these kind of applications. Shear strength of #10 of this SPAX type is around 700lb. Just be aware that shear strength (and pullout) of various fastener designs is all over the place.