Bouldering to rope grades

Jer wrote: Yeah, OP should get on Jumbo Love asap. Don't you think it's important for a beginner have an idea if the route is within his ability before starting? I climb 5.12 so I go look for inspiring 5.12s, it would be a waste of my time to find an inspiring 5.15 and start pulling away. If the grading at the gym is in line with your sport crag you should be able to do all the moves on most 11s as a v5 climber imo. My local gym workers have always been a great source for recommendations of outdoor routes to try as well.

Oh did I hurt your grade chasing feelings? I can see by your post that you are ego driven, spray me down more with what you climb please? Which 5.12s and how many burns? Oh I'll just click and look at your ticks. Huh seems like you fell off Caustic 2 weeks ago. Bit of Juggy 12. Dare I say soft for 12. But I'm sure the guys at your gym think it's solid for the grade. +1 for the OP jumping on the hardest route in the country too. Great context. Try pushing yourself outside your comfort zone and you may just suprise yourself. Not every progression is linear.

I don't climb at a very high grade, and one thing that inspires me is the ability to climb stuff that's really hard to climb. An easy way for me to define stuff that's hard is its difficulty rating. I'm not ashamed of wanting to climb stuff that's harder, and no one is gonna make me feel bad in any way for "number chasing". Even if my personal number chasing is pretty mediocre in the grand scheme of things.

R. Moran wrote: Oh did I hurt your grade chasing feelings? I can see by your post that you are ego driven, spray me down more with what you climb please? Which 5.12s and how many burns? Oh I'll just click and look at your ticks. Huh seems like you fell off Caustic 2 weeks ago. Bit of Juggy 12. Dare I say soft for 12. But I'm sure the guys at your gym think it's solid for the grade. +1 for the OP jumping on the hardest route in the country too. Great context. Try pushing yourself outside your comfort zone and you may just suprise yourself. Not every progression is linear.

Why are you so hostile? A beginner wants advice on what routes to try so I offered my method.

I didn't say I climb 5.12 as a brag because I didn't realize that's a big deal. You offered no help to OP but do feel like it's a good use of your time to stalk my profile to mock me, cool story bro go troll 4chan.

Norse Force wrote:If your in the Gunks or Eldo, I would say about 5.5+ or MAYBE 5.6.

haha!

5.5.... I can solo a 5.5

Eli lines wrote:5.5.... I can solo a 5.5

Find some obscure 5.5 at the Gunks or Seneca and see how that goes for you...

M Sprague wrote: That is an old way of grading that has not been used by most for a long time.

This. What theschmuck said has represented grading for a while now. Though it's worth mentioning that a lot of climbs from back in the day were one move wonders (e.g. anything in the Gunks under 5.12). Another really good example of the new style is anything at the Motherlode in the Red. Blake Bowling told me there's nothing in the madness cave harder than V3 IIRC.

Marc have you done Predator at Rumney? I've heard that the hardest bit is V5, granted a stack of V4/V5

Jon Frisby wrote: This. What theschmuck said has represented grading for a while now. Though it's worth mentioning that a lot of climbs from back in the day were one move wonders (e.g. anything in the Gunks under 5.12). Another really good example of the new style is anything at the Motherlode in the Red. Blake Bowling told me there's nothing in the madness cave harder than V3 IIRC. Marc have you done Predator at Rumney? I've heard that the hardest bit is V5, granted a stack of V4/V5

This is a gross oversimplification even if you want to limit the statement to "anything in the Gunks under 5.12."

the schmuck wrote:Lots of misconceptions here that have been covered on MP many times. A 5.8 with one 5.12 move is 5.12. A route with 20 .12- moves (v4/5) that is sustained with little rest, could be as hard as 13+ or more. A great example is Zee wicked witch at enchanted tower. It has no move harder than v2, but checks in at 12c/d.

Ok playing devils advocate,
(That is I know what a 1 move wonder is, On Any Monday , is the only thing that sticks out in my mind but there are many others)

What is a one move wonder?
a hard move after a stance, or a move and then a spot where a rest or stance can be 'copped',
is that what you mean?

Is it that there is one sequence that is at the grade and most of the rest of the climb is easy?

I have always tried to reduce the number of rests, that I take on successive burns.
( NOT weighting or hanging on the rope, type rests )

If there are rest to try to 'copp', they are part of the route, and can be a important part of the way to climb a hard line.

'Stylin" or 'floating' a route is the most desirable style.
Trying to make it look as easy as can be is a goal.

The facts are that full physical exertion,(dyno's etc. more often a part of, Very hard/ Bouldering type climbing) is often a display of -' Force over steep matter', - and less of a dance, than a dead-lift.

I'm not sure what you are asking me Mike, as I never mentioned anything about one move wonders. But let me try to get to the gist of what you are getting at.

5.8 to a short V4 to 5.10 would be 12- or 11+ at most.

Easy climbing to V4 to moderate climbing to V4 with no opportunity to rest between the two V4 sections may be 12b/c or more.

80 feet of sustained V4 with no opportunity to rest may be somewhere in the 13s.

V4 to V4 to V4 with full recovery rests in between each crux would still likely be 12-.

Just to reiterate my example, calling something like Zee Wicked Witch (12c) or 49 (12a) at Maple 11- or 10+ would be absurd, but those are the hardest moves on those routes when taken by themselves.

   Grade consideration is important to a degree. Principally, the primary concern should be safety ( i.e., reduction of bodily injury), and ( more subjectively ) the simple enjoyment drawn from an engaged activity. That said,.. just go find climbs that look appealing, and give them a whirl,.. an awareness of how one’s ability fits within the system will become apparent. This suggestion is recommended for short ( 1 - 2 pitch routes ). The game of grading is most useful for longer climbs,… simple enjoyment often wanes on a 1000 foot climb that has a 5.9+ X pitch high up. Cheers !! 

In my Gym, V5 might be 5.10c/d