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On Any Monday 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges
Page Views: 1,594
Submitted By: monk on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Climb ~10 feet up to a piton (no pro, ~5.7). Clip that pin, continue up to the remains of another pin (pulled in 2013, see below), and make a delicate move up to the overlap. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux (you can scramble down right from here) or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.


~20 feet right of the Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct crack.


I use a ball nut to backup the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too.

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By paulmadry
Jul 19, 2011

the knifeblade piton is suspect (looks good enough for aid but not far fall). I managed to add a blue a and black alien next to it.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I got replacement cost + a six pack for whoever is skilled with piton craft and replaces that second knife blade pin.

Also, the moves to the first pin feel harder than 5.7 to me - maybe it's a reach thing, I'm 5'5" and to do a tenuous move to make the clip.
By David Stowe
Nov 5, 2012

Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts.
By Lukasz M Fidkowski
From: Berkeley, California
Nov 9, 2013

Fell at the crux today, pulled out the pin (2nd pin). Had a ballnut next to it that magically held...
By losbill
Nov 11, 2013

By SethG
Nov 11, 2013

Glad you emerged unscathed.
By kenr
Jun 3, 2015

Crux might be fairly height+reach dependent.
We did it on top-rope. My partner was much taller, and it seemed that he could reach rock features which I could not -- not actual holds, but things he could use to pull/push himself more easily into balance over a critical dicey foothold at the upper crux. Not to mention that because he was taller his body was already more in balance over that foothold.

So he could get the move (with difficulty), while I could not even come close. But maybe I just need different beta - (or to first become a different better climber).
Jun 4, 2015

I think that might be right, Ken, Scott (monk) has just a little more reach than I do and I remember being just unable to reach the holds he did.

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