Trouble getting past V3s

So I have been bouldering for some time now, and can basically flash most V3s, yet when I try to get on a V4 or anything harder, I can't seem to even make the first or second move. What am I doing wrong?!?!

My guess is you have been using muscle and now you need technique ..

Inside or outside? More to gauge what you mean by a v3 and v4. Gym gradings are often quite a bit softer, so the advice could be different depending which you mean.

My experience with getting over the v3 grade is that v3 can be done just by climbing a lot but if you want to get to v4 and up you need to start doing a lot more specific training. 4x4's, hard hard easy, bouldering pyramids, try some campus board training and start doing a lot of core training. The harder the grade the more training you need to do to pump up to that grade.

Because in the gym, Vb-V3 are very softly graded to keep non-climbers coming back. V4 is typically about where gym grades start to become a little more realistic. And a V4 is comparable to 5.12a crux, while a soft V3 is more like a 10+ crux.

Mostly been bouldering inside but the few times I have gone outside, I notice the obvious grade difference between the two. It feels like it's probably a technique thing but I'm unsure what steps to take from here to fix it. Probably just boulder outside more.

Hunter McPherson wrote:Mostly been bouldering inside but the few times I have gone outside, I notice the obvious grade difference between the two. It feels like it's probably a technique thing but I'm unsure what steps to take from here to fix it. Probably just boulder outside more.

I was stuck in the same boat when I first started. What helped me a lot was starting climbing on ropes. It helped build a lot of technique and foot work. I couldn't just muscle through since routes are a lot longer than boulder problems.

and yea someone said it earlier...you were probably able to just muscle through the V3s where tons of v4s start needing more technique

This youtube playlist will improve your technique. I watch it quite often to refresh. I'm still a noob but this video has done wonders for me.

You probably could start on video 5 as the first few are super basic stuff you should know by now.

youtube.com/playlist?list=P…

How's your core strength? Do you train core much? My experience has shown me that problems V4 or harder are generally steeper and it comes down to having a strong core.

My first guess on things like this is always that you should concentrate on footwork. If you don't want to do any specific training besides climbing, you can try repeating the climbs that were most difficult for you, but try to focus on deliberate movement. Don't adjust or move your feet when they touch a hold, unless you're doing a separate move. Drilling like this well help you realize what placements are good and will help you feel out why. Then, when you try V4s you will better understand the movements necessary and WHY they are necessary.You can also try slab climbing with tennis balls in your hands. That will help you trust your feet.

If all else fails, just look up a bunch of technique help videos on youtube lol.

Quinn Baker wrote:... If all else fails, just look up a bunch of technique help videos on youtube lol.

Most technique videos on youtube suck lol. The playlist I posted is all one needs, it's really just one video broken into sections (gross overstatement). It focuses on footwork and shows why things don't work just like you said. Better to train with a game plan than just randomly climbing and trying to figure things out.

Focusing on technique that you struggle with, on a route well within your capabilities will help tremendously. I think even some experienced climbers may benefit from the video.

Youtube video or forum, who cares where the info comes from. Personally I rather be able to see what's being talked about.

climb some long routes for a few weeks...go back to bouldering and see instant improvement ...also make sure you get a full 2 nights recovery between sessions if you waste yourself. my 2 cents (what has worked for me)

If you can't make the first or second move do what a lot of boulderer's do and buy a thicker pad or stack multiple pads and then claim the onsight.
Yes - this is sarcasm but a germ of truth.
I'm not normally snarky but the set up was too good on this one.

I would say the biggest diffuculties lie in holding onto the hand/finger holds. They always seem to slope-y, thin, too far or oddly positioned to crank down on stick the move(s)

Climbing is all about feet ,core and balance keep repeating that as your mantra and you will be doing gym V5 shortly

Hunter McPherson wrote:I would say the biggest diffuculties lie in holding onto the hand/finger holds. They always seem to slope-y, thin, too far or oddly positioned to crank down on stick the move(s)

Oddly, this says to me that you need to work on body position and footwork. The better those become, the less it will feel like you need to rely on your hands.

For example, I was working a V5 the other day and I felt that I was just not strong enough to make one of the moves. Every time I got into position I felt that I could not move my hands since I was using them to keep myself from coming off the wall. Then, a climber a bit better than me suggested flagging my left foot to the right, behind my right leg. This simple change made it possible for me to move my left hand to the next hold and I was able to finish the route.

Similarly, if you have problems with slopers, consider different body positions. Usually, the lower you can position yourself relative to the hold, the better it will feel.

Quinn Baker wrote: ... a climber a bit better than me suggested flagging my left foot to the right, behind my right leg.

^^^This.^^^ Climb with someone stronger than you (and with better technique). Ask for advice and try it out. It's amazing what a little tweak in your body position can accomplish.

Also, train body tension (i.e. planks).

flagging & drop knees

Paula C wrote: ^^^This.^^^ Climb with someone stronger than you (and with better technique). Ask for advice and try it out. It's amazing what a little tweak in your body position can accomplish. Also, train body tension (i.e. planks).

Agreed. I can't tell you how countless of times I've helped people by just suggesting a different body position completely change the feel of the hold they are on

10,000 hours, young grasshopper... 10,000 hours... And then, you will be able to do V4's with ease.

Not everyone climbs the same but it is amazing how much easier a move can be if you adjust how your leg is hanging. I have spent 3-4 hours trying to figure out a single first move than run through the rest of the route easy.

I have been on V5 problems that me and friend both climbed completely different and completely the same at the same time. I kinda wish I had videos of how we both climbed them the same and different. It is all about how you are flagging / toe hooking / shifting your balance that make that impossible move easy.