Suggestions for Spring trip to Oregon/Washington?

Ah I had missed the 5.7 leading part, yeah not much at index in that range. If you were heading over toward leavenworth it's still worth stopping by and doing great northern slab though, that's a fun route and fair to the grade IMO.

The other posters are dead on about snow for this season, there will be a bit in WA pass or the enchantments. That does make the rap descent off the north side of Prusik a bit more troublesome. I had some good old fashioned type 2 fun getting off of it last May in a LOW snow year.

The approach at WA pass for SEWS is actually more enjoyable with firm snow IMO, then later in the evening coming home you can glissade when it softens. If you're doing the Beckey Route on liberty bell I would bring an axe and some strap on pons. That approach gully is also preferable with snow, no worry about party induced chossfall.

The tooth may have an interesting approach that time of year, when the snow first melts out in the small trees and talus it can make for some spicy moats. That's a cruiser true 5.4 that's mostly low angle. It also has some nice views south to Rainier.

If you are equipped for some easy glacier (ie flat) travel Eldorado is a gorgeous trip. No rock required. Sahale is also amazing, that does require some route finding and a class 3 scramble on looser rock.

Nick Drake wrote:Ah I had missed the 5.7 leading part, yeah not much at index in that range. If you were heading over toward leavenworth it's still worth stopping by and doing great northern slab though, that's a fun route and fair to the grade IMO.

I would add:

Senior Citizens in Space, 5.8 cruise
Peanuts to serve you, 5.9 hand jam
Toxic Shock, 5.8 hand jam
Aires, 5.8 1st 2 pitches
Pisces, 5.6 hand jam

IMO index is a good place to push yourself.

A lot of good advice so far. I will just add a couple pieces of my own opinion. The SE Arete on SEWS is pretty easy for the 5.8 grade (in my opinion). Yes it is a long alpine climb and there are plenty of opportunities to get off route but the crux crack didn't feel hard compared to 5.8 cracks down in TN. The crux for me is always the runout on the "nervous nelly" pitch. As others have stated there will mostly likely still be several feet of snow on the ground but that shouldn't deter you from the climb. Go on a sunny day and as long as it didn't snow within a couple of days the route should be dry. And if you are in the WA Pass area a route you might consider is Prime Rib on the Goat Wall in Mazama. It is all sport climbing but it is a great way to get a newer person some multipitch experience. It is south facing and lower down the WA Pass itself so it should be warmer as well.

I would 2nd the recommendation for Eldorado or Sahale. Both of those would require some snow travel but in June the glaciers are usually flat and tame (very few if any open crevasses). I think that area at the end of Cascade River road in the most beautiful spot in the North Cascades. An awesome classic would be the W. Ridge of Forbidden. It is right between Eldorado and Sahale so same area. Has a little more involved glacier travel and some Class 4 scrambling so take that into consideration. You need overnight permits for any of the above 3 climbs but they are free and usually available on the day of at the ranger station.

Leavenworth is worth the visit. It is a really cool town just to stop by and see, and there is plenty to climb. Even a day hike up into the enchantments (Colchuck Lake) is definitely worth it.

Smith Rocks is a great place. Definitely not alpine but there are a few multi pitch routes. And it is big enough you could climb there for multiple days and still have more to climb. Plenty of sport and trad lines that are 5.9 or easier. The weather is usually much drier too so if Seattle is rainy head to smith.

Another suggestion Prime Rib of Goat outside of Mazama. Then head south to Leavenworth and do some climbing in Icicle.

If you are around the area and don't want to deal with loads of permits or snow check out smith rock. Loads of sport climbing there but also some really good multi-pitch trad. I'd reccomend monkey face perhaps. It only costs $5/day to park your car there which is super worth it in my opinion. It is only 3 hrs Southeast of Portland and a world class climbing destination. There certainly will not be snow either.

From your girlfriend's perspective it's sounding like a pretty big leap from the multipitch climbing you've done together to alpine routes in the North Cascades. If she's done a lot of backpacking and is comfortable with rugged/off trail travel, the transition could go smoothly. If she gets gripped scrambling unroped on a 25º slab, she'll probably hate it. The on trail travel in WA is steep, often exposed, and difficult to follow when snow covered. The off trail travel is not for the feint of heart. Reading a lot into your post, it sounds like the climbing would be the easy part for her. A lot of the approaches (especially with snow cover, as has been described) can be fairly complicated and are usually more challenging than the actual 'crux' of the climbs up here.

Smith really sounds like your best option. Wherever I May Roam is deservedly popular, but honestly you should check out the routes in the Marsupials based on your interest in alpine-lite climbing. (Marsupial Traverse, Cave Route, Round River Direct, Birds in a Rut) Make sure you check into bird closures as some of the popular moderate multipitch climbs are affected) It could be pretty good in June, but expect it to be on the hotter side of good... It's also (as I'm sure you realize) not on the way between PDX and Seattle. Then again, there's not a lot worth climbing on that is.

Thanks for the great advice and suggestions guys.

Max, I think she would be fine as she has a pretty good head and natural ability BUT after reading your comments and everyone's feedback I think you do have a point. I think we are going to end up going for a more laid back trip and ditch the alpine objectives. I would still like to see the Enchantments - maybe we'll stick to hiking there for now. The Marsupials looks like a great suggestion if we do end up at Smith. We are still in the planning stage so anything is an option. Looks fun!

You might also consider doing one of the routes on mt St. Helens if you want to climb one of the volcanoes.

Marlin Thorman wrote:A lot of good advice so far. I will just add a couple pieces of my own opinion. The SE Arete on SEWS is pretty easy for the 5.8 grade (in my opinion). Yes it is a long alpine climb and there are plenty of opportunities to get off route but the crux crack didn't feel hard compared to 5.8 cracks down in TN. The crux for me is always the runout on the "nervous nelly" pitch.

Marlin you're thinking of SW rib, I confused things because I SE arete when I meant *south* arete.
mountainproject.com/v/south…

I agree the SW rib is pretty easy for the grade, if you follow the old Beckey guide and go up around the chockstone then traverse right in to the start of the wavy crack it's only a 5.8 for a couple feet.
mountainproject.com/v/sw-ri…

Mike Hazard wrote:Thanks for the great advice and suggestions guys. Max, I think she would be fine as she has a pretty good head and natural ability BUT after reading your comments and everyone's feedback I think you do have a point. I think we are going to end up going for a more laid back trip and ditch the alpine objectives. I would still like to see the Enchantments - maybe we'll stick to hiking there for now. The Marsupials looks like a great suggestion if we do end up at Smith. We are still in the planning stage so anything is an option. Looks fun!

Why not head out the enchantments and do the hike up Asgard? If you're both comfortable on that then you would be prepared for the approaches to anything at WA pass (which is really a cake walk). I would recommend bringing your rack if you go to Leavenworth though, lots of fun climbing and multi pitch options in the Icicle!

If traveling from Portland to Seattle, consider the Tatoosh range (access via Rainier Paradise road). Easy access/approach, and has everything from walk-ups to 5th class pinnacles. No multipitch (everything is pretty short) but great alpine feel. There will probably be a lot of snow up there in June, but there are no glaciers and the south facing walls will probably be fine in the sun (Castle Peak, Unicorn Peak).

Nick Drake wrote: Marlin you're thinking of SW rib, I confused things because I SE arete when I meant *south* arete. mountainproject.com/v/south… I agree the SW rib is pretty easy for the grade, if you follow the old Beckey guide and go up around the chockstone then traverse right in to the start of the wavy crack it's only a 5.8 for a couple feet. mountainproject.com/v/sw-ri…

Thanks for setting me straight Nick! Yes, I meant the SW Rib.....definitely recommend that route. And the crux I was thinking of was the runout just below the "bear hug" pitch. Like 5.6/5.7 friction with plenty of exposure. Always a fun outing!

Bumping this thread-Is Index climbable in April? I have to be in Seattle for work and thinking of tying in a long weekend on either end.

VRP wrote:Bumping this thread-Is Index climbable in April? I have to be in Seattle for work and thinking of tying in a long weekend on either end.

As with all things in the PNW, depends on the weather. Some of the best climbing I've had at Index has been in December and January. The Lower Town Wall is south-facing and tends to dry fast, although a few routes seep. In April, as long as you have a sunny day that's not preceded by a week-long stretch of rain you should be good.

James Sledd wrote: As with all things in the PNW, depends on the weather. Some of the best climbing I've had at Index has been in December and January. The Lower Town Wall is south-facing and tends to dry fast, although a few routes seep. In April, as long as you have a sunny day that's not preceded by a week-long stretch of rain you should be good.

Cool, thanks man. That's kind of what I assumed so fingers crossed.

Index is climbable RIGHT NOW, 60 and sunny today. Man I wish I were out there. So yeah, you never know what the weather gods will give us.