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South Early Winters Spire
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Direct East Buttress T 
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SW Rib T 

SW Rib 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Donald Anderson & Larry Scott, 1964
Season: Late spring to early fall
Page Views: 6,844
Submitted By: BenCooper on Apr 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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approaching the crack variation

Description 

This a great route on very good rock, with good pro on the harder sections, and some easier and spicier slab runouts. Definitely a step up from the Beckey Route in length and commitment, but not as committing as say, the NW Face of Liberty Bell. Also, note that you can add a long pitch below what I call P1. We just traversed in, but it is possible to climb up directly to the left-leaning white crack.

References: Beckey Bible (Cascade Alpine Guide, Rainy Pass to Fraser River) has a good topo.

P1: climb the nice, wide, 5.8 left-leaning crack. Belay at the top of this crack at a tree. 5.8, ~80 feet.

P2: Continue up and left to a tree, then up and right to a belay below the Boving Roof and the West Face route to the left. 5.6, ~60 ft.

P3: Continue right and up to the base of the obvious dual offwidths, past some delicate, unprotected 5.6+ slab moves. ~100 ft.

P4: The bear hug pitch. Climb the very fun dual offwidth crack. From the top of the cracks, move up and right below a white wall into a corner and belay. 5.7+, ~80 ft.

P5: clip a bolt, then climb easy slab (5.5 or so) to the arete. Continue following the slabby arete with no pro, and belay at the 'Rabbit Ears,' two bouldery towers with rappel slings. Watch rope drag. ~165 ft.

P6: Either rappel or downclimb into the gully, then climb up from the gully on easy crack systems to the summit blocks. 5.5, ~80 ft. Watch your rope line here if you combine the downclimb with the cracks to the summit. I remember doing this as a short downclimb pitch, then a short pitch to the summit.

Location 

The route is located on the south/west side of the WA Pass group, on the west face of South Early Winter Spire. Hike from the Blue Lake TH for ~1.25 miles until you reach a clearing. From here, follow climber trails (step lightly and around the fragile alpine meadows) to the far right side of the face, underneath the SW Couloir.

From here, scramble up the couloir past the giant chockstone. Continue up about 50 feet until you can find a decent spot to traverse left across some ledges and through some trees on the face. I remember doing a short 20 foot rappel to get to the beginning of the 5.8 left-leaning crack.

Descend the South Arete route with some class 3/4 down climbing and a couple of rappels.

Protection 

1 60m rope. 1 set of stoppers, 1 set of cams to #3 camalot, with doubles in the 1" to 2" range for extra comfort, though it's not really needed. Also bring a large cam (approx. new #5 camalot size) for the Bear Hug pitch.


Photos of SW Rib Slideshow Add Photo
The route.  Bear-hug pitch visible, as well as the nice white crack first pitch.
The route. Bear-hug pitch visible, as well as the...
5.10 crack variation
5.10 crack variation
Justin high on the route.
Justin high on the route.
Heading up the couloir and left to the start of the left-leaning white crack.  There are a few options on the traverse left (high or low).
Heading up the couloir and left to the start of th...
5.10 crack variation
5.10 crack variation
start of the route
start of the route
SEWS
SEWS
Crack variation
Crack variation

Comments on SW Rib Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 28, 2009

I'd recommend climbing into the gully on the right of the rabbit ears. It's fairly easy and avoids the rappel. The rappel is kind of scary since I'm not quite sure what is holding the rabbit ears on.
By blakeherrington
May 2, 2009

The best way to reach the base of the slanting wide crack (listed here as P1) is to begin at a Y-shaped Larch tree, then follow corners and cracks straight up. (5.8)

A second option for pitch #1 is to the left of this, and is .10b gear-protected face, with some flakes and cracks.

Above the wide slanting crack (pitch #1 here) you can also go straight up and climb a three-star 5.10- finger crack.
By Ralph Bodenner
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

+1 to Blake's first suggestion for P1. Fun, steep, well-protected 5.8. With a few longer runners, you can link the 5.6 slab with the 5.7 bearhug pitch (which protects well with a single #5 Camalot). After the next slabby pitch, simulclimb toward the rabbit ears, but move down and left around them on a ledge (one bit of exposure, easily protected). You will reach the notch this way without rappel shenanigans. Then it's a short 5.4 wide crack to the top.

A big avalanche path now obliterates the trail at the second switchback. Hike straight up when you meet it until below the slabby cliffs, then pass them on the right.
By Nick Jackson
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The 5.10 finger crack Blake speaks of is incredibly fun, I definitely recommend it.

Also, we didn't take a #5. There's a spot for a small (yellow?) TCU behind a chockstone for the wide section on the left leaning crack pitch that's good for some mental pro.
By Jordan Sahlberg
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun route. To echo the sentiment of those above, the 5.10- crack above the classic 5.8 jam pitch is absolutly amazing.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another fun variation is to climb the Boving roofs, instead of the slab traverse to bear hug OW. Stiff 10b.
By JenniferL
5 days ago

Using the route description from Supertopo, if you opt to do the easy 5.5 variation on P3, you can link P3 and P4. P4 is really short. Just don't clip into the tree that's used for a belay at top of P3, otherwise there's a lot of drag.