Wisconsin's Top Ten Leads Under 5.10

Foreplay was really hard for you Mike....your Ex told me.

jon jugenheimer wrote:Foreplay was really hard for you Mike....your Ex told me.

Heyo!

jon jugenheimer wrote:Foreplay was really hard for you Mike....your Ex told me.

Now that's troll worthy!

jon jugenheimer wrote:Foreplay was really hard for you Mike....your Ex told me.

ZING!

It was my first...

Mike, I heard you couldn't get your GF up Orgasm either, even after climbing Foreplay.

But, no sad face, I couldn't get her up on top rope either.

I think what makes this list significant is the story behind each route, the day, who you are with, was it onsight? with a rope? Did you watch some 60 yr old lady cruise it?

There are so many routes I haven't been on yet, but for now my list would go something like:

1. Prime Rib
2. Brinton's (direct)
3. Upper D
4. Cleo's Needle
5. Watermarks
6. Roger's Roof
7. Chicago
8. Orgasm
9. Queen's Throne
10. Stinger/ Weissner Face

jon jugenheimer wrote:Mike, I heard you couldn't get your GF up Orgasm either, even after climbing Foreplay. But, no sad face, I couldn't get her up on top rope either.

Don't you have some ice climbing thread to moderate?

Calvino wrote:I think what makes this list significant is the story behind each route ... with a rope?

Now that's a good question!

My favorite solos:
Push-mi Pull-yu
Lost Face
Peter's
Pine Tree Step-across
The Bone
Foreplay
Turk's Head Ridge
Double Overhang
Queen's Throne
Cleo's North Face

Honorable mention:
Everleigh Club Crack
The Horse
The Pillar (at RR Amph)
Bloody Finger

My Favorite leads thus far.

1. Roger's Roof-Bomber gear with an insecure (with my hands) roof pull.
2. Dippy Diagonal
3. Brinton's Crack - Gorgeous, aesthetic lead.
4. Pine Tree Step-Across - Screws your head on tight.
5. Birthday Crack
6. Queen's Throne - Bomber gear, perfect holds everywhere.
7. Peter's Project
8. Upper Diagonal
9. Hydroponics
10. Curving Crack

That being said, there is hardly a lead I don't love.

Gokul, I believe the question was about LEADS not SOLOS :P

My list, based partially on climb quality and partially on the good timez had on said climbs:

Cleos (via any route)
Everleigh Club Crack (If only it were 100ft taller!!!)
Double Overhang (always fun)
Keyhole Chimney (who doesn't love a keyhole!?)
Dippy Diagonal
False Alarm Jam
Peter's Project
Push-mi Pull-u
Full Stop
...and the one that I know would be awesome if conditions had been different: Turk's Head Ridge (if anyone wants to do that again with me let me know!)

There are no leads under 5.9 at DL.

Your right mike. Conditions update was just made on the ice page. Finally out of Nebraska now,my trolling for the month is over.

Kinda new to Devils lake climbing. Spent most of the spring and summer making long drives to the Black Hills and Devils tower. Got in a little climbing at the Lake before it got cold. Got a chance to do a lot of the routes that are on most peoples list of top 10s. One in particular that I got on and don't see listed is "Queens Face" which I thought was a super fun 5.8.

Hmmmmmmmmm..... you did say Wisconsin, didn't you? Here's three from Devils Lake's red headed step-child, Taylors Falls (Wisconsin side).

Inside Corner
Yosemite Crack
Sentinel

Tradoholic wrote:There are no leads under 5.9 at DL.

Rhoads, that's not even good trolling. Try again.

Tradoholic wrote:There are no leads under 5.9 at DL.

Nick, don't you know by now that not everyone climbs for the same reason you do? I'll bite anyway though, what makes something a "lead" in your book?

Peter L Scott wrote:Hmmmmmmmmm..... you did say Wisconsin, didn't you? Here's three from Devils Lake's red headed step-child, Taylors Falls (Wisconsin side). Inside Corner Yosemite Crack Sentinel

I did say Wisconsin, but I only see three routes listed!

I'm surprised there is no love for Castle Rock South.

Buddha Bukstein is a nice long route, with a good balance of solid and suspect rock, especially right after the roof.
Walk The Line was my first .10, but on the second send I thought it was a bit easier than Congrats, so .9+ enough for this list. And I cratered from that nice jug after the finger crack. It was before I knew liebacks weren't the best option for finger cracks and I had more balls than gear. I'll never forget how much of a mindfuck it was looking up and seeing my belayer, then seeing the massive holes my feet had made in the decaying pine needles.
Best Jams in Wisconsin might not be the best jams in Wisconsin, and you might not technically need to jam, but with a little focus, this is great for lapping.

I wouldn't change my list, but these three routes have to be on somebody's list.

Doug Hemken wrote: FRAGILE?? how dare you, sir! We have a very robust excuse! Good list, btw.

The only thing that is "robust" about this state is the average cheese-curd-laden, beer-soaked waistline.

N. D. Guerre wrote: The only thing that is "robust" about this state is the average cheese-curd-laden, beer-soaked waistline.

Oh, good one!