Wisconsin's Top Ten Leads Under 5.10


jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

Damn straight I am. You suck Jay!

Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,333
jon jugenheimer wrote:Damn straight I am. You suck Jay!

Them's fightin words Jon!
Gokul · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1,536

#5-ish: Michael's (seriously, I don't understand why it's so reviled)
- need more time for the rest of the list -

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

Peters is the worst below .10 lead at the lake. I would put it on my top 10 worst climbs...

Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,333
jon jugenheimer wrote:Peters is the worst below .10 lead at the lake. I would put it on my top 10 worst climbs...
Peters, aka "The Official Access Gully of the DLFA"
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

I always thought the DLFA gully was to the right, the actual gully.

N. D. Guerre · · Trois-Rivieres, Quebec · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

You Americans, always quibbling over such insignificances. Perhaps if your fragile excuse for a state had any real climbing, you would not be spending so much time on the internet.

Alas, while I am marooned here in this detestable flatland of snow and substandard cheese, I will oblige you with a list of my own.

The most enjoyable (those with some, shall we say, esprit) routes under 5.10:

1. The Summit Tunnel Route - Shiprock
2. Charybdis - Devil's Lake
3. Epiphany - Devil's Lake
4. Drunken Sailor - Devil's Lake
5. Air - Necedah
6. Impossible Crack - Devil's Lake
7. Upper Diagonal - Devil's Lake
8. Michael's Project - Devil's Lake
9. Pine Tree Step-Across - Devil's Lake
10. Via Apia - Devil's Lake

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,042
jon jugenheimer wrote:Peters is the worst below .10 lead at the lake. I would put it on my top 10 worst climbs...
Ha! You're going to have to try harder than that to stir the pot.
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

Upper D. #1 best climb under 10 @ D'lake

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

My list, in no particular order.....

Upper D
Brinton's
Peter's (clearly Jon you are just wrong)
Charybdis

Pine Tree Step across

The Bone
Weisner's Face
Lost Face

Curving Crack

And for one not at the Lake
End of the Innocence

Never climbed Air so I do not know its quality.

Ron L Long · · Out yonder in Wisco. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90

Wobbly D was good until some one broke a hold off up high.

False Perspective was good until some one pulled the jug out.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,042
Ron L Long wrote:Wobbly D was good until some one broke a hold off up high. False Perspective was good until some one pulled the jug out.
Your biography will be titled "Ron Long: A One Man Ice Age"
James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,042
Ron L Long wrote:...Never climbed Air so I do not know its quality.
It's rad! Let's go Sunday! I'll lead!
Chris treggE · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,285

Air is dull compared to fire in the sky. I suppose it could be considered a warm up for FITS.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,042
Chris treggE wrote:Air is dull compared to fire in the sky. I suppose it could be considered a warm up for FITS.
Between you and Jugs, you guys are going to have to do a more provocative job of trolling. The only decent troll I see here is the canuck.
Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Breakfast of Champs, Brinton's Direct, The Bone and Sun Top Tower should be on the list.

btw, I like Michael's Project, it's always been one of my favorite easy leads.

Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,333
Ron L Long wrote:My list, in no particular order..... Upper D Brinton's Peter's (clearly Jon you are just wrong) Charybdis Pine Tree Step across The Bone Weisner's Face Lost Face Curving Crack And for one not at the Lake End of the Innocence Never climbed Air so I do not know its quality.
Are we not numbering our lists now? And I see Ed posted only 5 instead of the required 10 routes. It's chaos!
Mr. Mix · · Sauk City, WI · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 395

Really James, Swiss Cheese and PWB Arete?

Alright I'm in:

Upper D
Birthday Crack (don't think I saw this one yet)
Curving Crack
Chicago
Breakfast of Champions
Briton's Crack
Orgasm (don't believe I saw this one either)
Cleo's Needle
Air
Mung

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,042
Mr. Mix wrote:Really James, Swiss Cheese and PCB Arete?
Probably the Pointer in me talking.
Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,392
N. D. Guerre wrote:your fragile excuse for a state had any real climbing, you would not be spending so much time on the internet.
FRAGILE?? how dare you, sir! We have a very robust excuse!

Good list, btw.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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