What is the safest climbing helmet?

I've been looking into getting some helmets for kids recently and was wondering what the "safest" one is.

I am curious for adults though too. Like a lot of climbers I wear a helmet sometimes (mostly on multipitch climbs). I chose my helmet more for comfort. But if you are going to wear a helmet, shouldn't you wear the safest one?

Jim

jim.dangle wrote:I've been looking into getting some helmets for kids recently and was wondering what the "safest" one is.

The safest one is the one you will actually wear...

Well, like everything, the answer is "it depends." Do consider that if you are looking for a helmet that is purely for impact absorption (i.e. falling debris, lightweight, compact are NOT a consideration) you might be better off with a helmet designed for another activity, like cycling, especially if it fits the kids better - it may be difficult to find a well fitting kids climbing helmet, I don't know what is available.

What age? My kids now 4 and 6 wear their bern helmets. They are rated for cycling and skiing and seem to have a hard shell that might stand a chance at penetration protection. Its the best I could do.

Mark E Dixon wrote: The safest one is the one you will actually wear...

This statement actually holds a lot of truth to it.

When I working at bike shops I encouraged people to not just get the cheapest thing but something they actually like in both helmets and bikes.

Get something that fits really well (ie comfy) and something that you actually like the design of it. If you think it's lame you will be a lot less likely to wear it.

Petzl makes a children's helmet that is cert-ed for BOTH climbing and biking

Each sport has a different certs for their helmets, but snowsports and biking have much closer certs (in terms of impact and coverage) and really helmets from one can be used for both.

I've long thought that it would be nice if the UIAA hemet standard were a graduated scale, like car crash ratings are. Unfortunately, it's a pass/fail system, which means there's not really a way to compare two helmets that both meet the standard. There are a few helmets that meet the UIAA standard as well as the more stringent ANSI hard-hat standard (petzl vertex), but none of those that I'm aware of come in kids sizes.

Mark E Dixon wrote: The safest one is the one you will actually wear...

Exactly...a comfy helmet that comes down past the temples of your head, and covers the back of the head well. Not always the lightest most op-art modern looking thing, but a solid brain bucket that will do the job in comfort.

vincent L. wrote:

mmm I don't know if you hit the glass and it broke it could be dangerous I think something like this is safer:

The problem with climbing helmets today is that not a single one will do a good job of saving your melon in the two scenarios our heads are confronted with.

Helmet A, is your typical hard hat style climbing helmet that is designed to protect you from falling rocks. These are only certified by the UIAA by a top drop test and are not tested for side or back of the head impacts.

Helmet B, is your typical high density foam helmet with or without the plastic shell. These are usually lightweight especially the non shell coated ones. They are also usually certified for multiple sports such as bicycling and climbing but are only good against falls where the climber hits their head on the side back or top. Such as could happen when one takes a lead fall. These helmets do not protect you against rockfall nearly as well as the hard hat style of helmet A.

There has yet to be a helmet that can be certified under both categories and that is something we as climbers need to be asking of from our manufacturers.

I personally wear a Bern helmet that is not certified against rockfall. I figure out of the two scenarios whippers with concussion potential seem far more likely/frequent. Not to mention my helmet at least helps against the small rocks... I guess maybe if you climb somewhere super chossy you might want the rockfall protection more.

Either way any helmet is better then no helmet

These photos are great. Literally, laughed out loud. Especially the Rick Moranis one (wasn't that Spaceballs?). Where can I get one?

Should one that is concerned with which is the "safest helmet" even participate in a sport such as rock climbing? Hmmm?

Bob Dobalina wrote:Should one that is concerned with which is the "safest helmet" even participate in a sport such as rock climbing? Hmmm?

Yes because wanting to be "safer" makes you a gumby noob. You are ignorant. You stick clip Bob, sorry but your argument against safety seems awfully hypocritical. I wear a helmet but never stick clip, does that make me as bad ass as you are Bob??

Bob Dobalina wrote:Should one that is concerned with which is the "safest helmet" even participate in a sport such as rock climbing? Hmmm?

No, you certainly shouldn't climb if you are concerned about the best helmet or the strongest knot or the best cam placement or safest belay device, etc.

Thomas T wrote: mmm I don't know if you hit the glass and it broke it could be dangerous I think something like this is safer: pm me I have youth sizes as well

Sorry. Wrong. sharp edges on it could cut the rope. Danger, danger.

ChefMattThaner wrote:The problem with climbing helmets today is that not a single one will do a good job of saving your melon in the two scenarios our heads are confronted with. Helmet A, is your typical hard hat style climbing helmet that is designed to protect you from falling rocks. These are only certified by the UIAA by a top drop test and are not tested for side or back of the head impacts. Helmet B, is your typical high density foam helmet with or without the plastic shell. These are usually lightweight especially the non shell coated ones. They are also usually certified for multiple sports such as bicycling and climbing but are only good against falls where the climber hits their head on the side back or top. Such as could happen when one takes a lead fall. These helmets do not protect you against rockfall nearly as well as the hard hat style of helmet A. There has yet to be a helmet that can be certified under both categories and that is something we as climbers need to be asking of from our manufacturers.

Don't believe that's true. To get UIAA helmet certification, helmets must pass both top, front and side impact tests along with a penetration test.

Granted, the hard shells do better at the top test and the foams do better at side/frontal but they both pass the tests. Arguably the standards are pretty low and any helmet out there provides less than ideal impact protection but it's a trade off of protection vs weight etc . I opt for the foams most of the time as my major concern is side impacts from lead falls.

^^^ this is true they do side drop impact tests on all helmets. However most of the hard hat style helmets offer very poor side and back protection. The current UIAA test allows for the mold to be angled at whichever angle necessary in order for their straight drop test to impact the side of the helmet. Unfortunately there has yet to be a quantitative way to describe how much of your head is covered by the helmet. One can just look at pictures of helmets and see which ones offer more all around head protection.

That being said all helmets are good and will be better then no helmet.

Climbing.com on UIAA and CE helmet certification

ChefMattThaner wrote: Yes because wanting to be "safer" makes you a gumby noob. You are ignorant. You stick clip Bob, sorry but your argument against safety seems awfully hypocritical. I wear a helmet but never stick clip, does that make me as bad ass as you are Bob??

"I'm canceling my plan to climb el cap because I'm really concerned that the safety rating of my helmet is too low"
- Said nobody in history, ever.

I wear a helmet all the time with each of the sports I do. I like safe gear but helmets for rock climbers are about as important as helmets for sky divers.
Plus a recent published article has shed light on the fact that rock climbing helmets are flawed in their design to begin with. They are designed take impacts mainly from above. Turns out, most head injuries incurred while rock climbing are caused from side impacts.

And btw, I only pull out the stick clip when I'm dead-ended while aid climbing on a big wall bolt ladder with missing fixed pro. You can call that cheating if you want...

^^^ Untrue. Both the foam and the hard plastic shells must transmit no more than 8kn of energy through the human body in order to recieve a UIAA rating.