Yosemite Moderates

Hello all, I've searched around a lot for a thread along this similar topic, and I don't doubt that it's there but I couldn't find it.
I will be in Yosemite for the first time for a week or so towards the end of May and will be looking to do some moderate sport and trad climbing in the 5.8-5.10 range. The only problem is that me nor my partner are comfortable building gear anchors, so we are looking for something with bolted anchors the whole way up. So far I have found Snake Dike and Crest Jewel. Any other option, other than slabs like these, that could be a lot of fun to get on? We will be bringing a standard North Carolina trad rack (Friends, Tricams, Nuts), so looking to do more than run out bolted climbs like the ones I've mentioned, so any suggestions welcomed.
Thanks in advance,

Will

Goodrich Pinnacle at Glacial Point Apron was one of my favorite climbs in the Valley. A great multi-pitch (700 ft., 7 pitches maybe) with an array different climbing techniques. Fantastic climbing the entire way up with two back to back runout traversing slab pitches (5.9 & 5.7) and a fantastic chimney to top out the climb. For some reason I don't remember building any belays (may have been one at the top of the first pitch, can't remember) and feel like most were bolted. Anyways an awesome climb nonetheless. Hopefully someone will chime in who knows the area more than myself.

mountainproject.com/v/goodr…

mountainproject.com/v/pat-a… (this area has some single pitch mixed stuff and sport routes with bolted anchors on some stuff, it on the way in or out of the park)

Maybe I misunderstood you, but if you can't build gear anchors, than you really shouldn't be trad leading. I would stick to sport routes if that is the case. If it's not then my bad I just misunderstood your post.

You may want to learn how to build anchors there is not a ton of climbs with bolted anchors. If can place gear safely pick up a cordelet and a basic anchor book. But there is a ton of routes that top out on a ledge with a tree that you can simply sling. My best advice would be to pick up the supertopo YOS. guide book and learn how to build anchors. If you get on the snake hike start early and bring a lot of water that can be a long day.

Thanks for the advice everyone! I agree that starting to build gear anchors would be ideal, but I have only been lead climbing since January so i'm pretty new to the sport. I am very comfortable placing gear and on multi-pitch, however I haven't ventured into building anchors just yet. I will plan on getting out a few times within the next week or two and practicing building anchors and take it from there. Keep the suggestions coming, though!

dude just spend an hour or two building anchors with a full rack. then slim the rack down with random pieces as if you had just led a pitch. use only nuts or a mixture. you 100% HAVE to have this skill even if you want to climb a route that has bolted anchors.

it's much easier than you probably think it is.

Greg G wrote:dude just spend an hour or two building anchors with a full rack. then slim the rack down with random pieces as if you had just led a pitch. use only nuts or a mixture. you 100% HAVE to have this skill even if you want to climb a route that has bolted anchors. it's much easier than you probably think it is.

+1. If you are good at placing gear that is half the battle.

"Thanks for the advice everyone! I agree that starting to build gear anchors would be ideal, but I have only been lead climbing since January so i'm pretty new to the sport. I am very comfortable placing gear and on multi-pitch, however I haven't ventured into building anchors just yet."

Put 3 pieces in a crack (not behind a loose block, a solid crack, or even better a few different cracks. If possible use a few nuts, and cams of different sizes so you don't burn all cams in one size. Than Equalize them. I like dynamic anchors the most. I use a nylon double length sling to equalize usually. But it depends on a situation. Different people do things differently. Search youtube for videos, there are really good ones out there. Good luck and have fun in Yosemite!

wpfister wrote: but I have only been lead climbing since January so i'm pretty new to the sport.

Yosemite can humble the even solid 5.9 leader pretty quickly. Learning to climb cracks takes some getting use to, its almost like learning to climb again.

Anchor building is a CRITICAL skill. You have no business leading until you can build an anchor with some measure of confidence. It just takes a couple hours of fooling around to figure it out. Learn how to use a cordellette and learn how to clove 3 pieces together with a rope. That will cover 99% of all anchor situations.

Spend $11 to save YOSAR the trouble of plucking you off a climb and charging you $10,000 for negligence.

barnesandnoble.com/w/climbi…;ean=9780762723263&isbn=9780762723263&r=1

I wouldn't be leading on gear if you can't build a gear anchor. Simple as that.

Buy "Climbing Anchors" by John Long, as somebody else mentioned. It's a great book that you can always refer back to for years to come.

I will plan on getting out a few times within the next week or two and practicing building anchors and take it from there. Keep the suggestions coming, though!

Yur GUNNA DIE!

If you can place gear that will hold a lead fall, you should be able to learn how to build trad anchors pretty quickly. Once you've learned about equalizing and backing up pieces, it's mostly a question of learning to spot a series of placements that will work together, and that comes with practice.

To answer your question, Braille Book is probably my favorite climb in the range you describe, but that's quite an undertaking for a new leader. Stiff walk in, 6 pitches, and if you hike to the top of Higher Cathedral Rock after the climb the view of El Cap is spectacular. Bishop's Terrace is an excellent 5.8, the second pitch had bolted anchors the last time I was there, and apparently a 70 meter rope will let you combine both pitches (I think). It's a very popular climb, so expect to wait in line. Serenity Crack has bolted anchors, the 3 pitches are 5.10a, 5.10a and 5.10d. The 5.10d section is short and kind of soft.

I don't remember making a gear anchor anywhere on the RNWF of Half Dome, I think they were all bolted. And it's only 5.9, with a few pitches of easy aid...get after it!

Serious answer...stick to single pitches until you know how to build an anchor (among other things). There are lots of awesome single pitch routes in the valley. Better yet, like everyone else said, it's not rocket science; learn to build a simple gear anchor and get on all that the Valley has to offer!

I would HIGHLY recommend Little John Right at the base of El Cap. The first pitch is just ok, but the other two are fantastic. Two of the three belays are (were?) bolted with the middle one being a piece of cake hand crack. Just plug in a couple cams, equalize them and voila! Perfect basic practice and about as easy as a built anchor gets. Each belay is at a ledge and you get to feel like you are really climbing the Captain!!!
mountainproject.com/v/littl…

For help with equalizing, I would recommend a product from Metolius:
metoliusclimbing.com/equali…
Easy to use and pack up when done.

Seriously though, go to Swan Slab and just practice building anchors. Find as many crazy places as you can try to build one with three solid pieces. Work out your system. Work out how to protect various pull directions. Ask other climbers to come over and take a look. Consider taking a class. Do whatever it takes to learn how to be safe. Have a great time! Yosemite is an amazing place. It's just incredible being there. Enjoy the experience!

I would second getting John Longs book

Go to the base of some rock and spend the day building anchors. Do not pass go until you would hang off any of them over the yawning void. Use more than three pieces until you can do this stuff blindfolded.

Then check out

this- - has a few bolted anchors and kinda reminded me of Whitesides.

Jamcrack and lazy bum?

Jared Garfield wrote:Maybe I misunderstood you, but if you can't build gear anchors, than you really shouldn't be trad leading. I would stick to sport routes if that is the case. If it's not then my bad I just misunderstood your post.

This +1 probably shouldn't be taking on yosemite

csproul wrote:I don't remember making a gear anchor anywhere on the RNWF of Half Dome, I think they were all bolted.

That's pathetic. When I did that (albeit a long time ago) there weren't any bolted belays that I can recall. When did Yosemite become some Euro crag?

Anyways, like everyone has said, if you can't build an anchor you should not be trad leading. Simple as that. I actually learned in the opposite order. Learned to climb at Mt. Rubidoux (smaller top roping area) so I was building anchors before leading. Have to get that skill down unless you and your partner want to be scooped up from the base of a crag somewhere after an anchor pulls and you both crater. Don't be that guy. If you're new to the sport, you'll likely be doing it a long time. Take some time to get the basics down. It'll open lots of doors for you.

Church Bowl is good, although I felt like an entertainment to tourists....not that I mind that. They will come up and ask you a few questions, maybe ask to touch your biceps etc. he he its all good for somebody's ego. Those foulks are friendly.

Pro is abundant there. You guys should be good.