About 120' uphill from Moby Dick-Right Side is this 160 foot slab with a tree at the top. This climbs a right facing corner with a small roof, 20' up. Continue up to a belay. Continue up cracks to "The Improbable Traverse", to the left. Belay at the base of a shallow, flared dihedral, leading to the top.
Funny how the traverse is called "improbable." We thought it was pretty simple. Fun climb (first pitch was just so-so) to a perfect ledge. It makes you almost feel like you are really on the big guy. But then you hear someone WAY up above you yell something and it puts you back in your place.
By jpvandever From: San Francisco, CA Apr 6, 2009 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Fun and challenging 5.8 climb. If belaying at the bolted anchors above the first pitch (Supertopo belay), be sure to extend pieces low on P2 to avoid rope drag once you get to the traverse. Leader can protect the "improbable" traverse for second by placing cam high in second vertical crack, midway across the P2 traverse. Can rappel from top of third pitch using bolted anchor and chains at the left end of the ledge (above Little John, left) with a 60m rope down to 3rd class ledges, or all the way to the ground with a 70m rope.
The crux on the first pitch is a little strenuous, but well protected and only a couple moves to a nice rest. Found the "improbable traverse" not so improbable. Follow the finger crack to its end. Pop a piece in the corner and then step left on the only foothold around... Last pitch is fun. More awkward than it looks, but not for long. Good stuff here!