Height dependence, ratings, ape index, go-go gadget arms, etc .

Shumin Wu wrote: I'd agree with you IF body/arm strength is the limiting factor in climbing harder. I can do multiple one-armed pullups and hold plank on the bar/rings, but that hasn't helped me that much trying to become an elite climber. It usually came down to techniques, finger/hand strength, and length.

Absoluelty Shumin- I'm not saying either tall or short makes you great. I happen to have monstrerously long arms and used to do the 1-armers and could easly hold a front lever or a flully extended flag before my recent series of injuries. But I still never climbed "hard."

A quote that R&I printed once was:
"Climbing is 90% mental. The rest is footwork."

It is my belief that smaller climbers have an advantage.
Have you seen chipmunks run up and down horrendous overhangs?
If a person is half the size, the holds are twice as big.
In my opinion really large climbers of any ability tend to be the exception, rather than the rule.
As a 6'2" over the hill has been climber with a dead even ape index, I want to protect my ego and delude myself into believing this.

Does anyone know if there are any 5.14+ climbers out there who are over 200 lbs?

the british beefcake john dunne - 14aX !!!! wonder what he's up to these days?

The ideal climbing body: Strong, lightweight, flexible, small in stature, with small hands - yet with the ability to extend the arms when the holds are are high, and to increase the size the hands when the crack widens. Add to that some springy action in the legs, and some adhesion forces in the hands. A bit of She-Ra, GoGoGadget, Gumby, and Spiderman all in one body. 5.14 - yeaaaah.

Tom Hanson wrote:Does anyone know if there are any 5.14+ climbers out there who are over 200 lbs?

Klem Loskot is definitely up there size-wise.

I am 6'3.5" with a +4 AI. I find laybacking and weird drop knee reaches really easy, but have a hard time with dynos, just goes to show everyone has a different style. (I probably find dynos difficult because I rarely have to dyno. I can static most moves like that.) Overhangs are more difficult for very tall people, we have more mass to lug around than short climbers (I am right at 200 lbs).

pfwein wrote: One thing I'm curious about: how often do really short (say 5'2'' or below, but that's an arbitrary number) climbers who have climbed hard stuff get shut down on "easy" height-dependent routes?

That is an interesting point. I know of a climb that is rated V7 that i can do in my hiking shoes that my girlfriend will never be able to do. I personally think it is rated V2 but me being relatively tall (5'11") is going to skew my rating.

I hate tall people. I laugh when they hit they're heads on shit.

Chris Miller wrote:I hate tall people. I laugh when they hit they're heads on shit.

At least we have a reason to live.

tenesmus wrote: At least we have a reason to live.

Ha, like the song. Good come back;)

All you tall people are a bunch of god damn Reachers.