What does your Woody look like???

My wife and I are buying an acreage in the next month or so. This outbuilding will hold my largest home wall to date (I've built 5 over the last 10 years). I'm pretty excited since the building has running water, skylights, and a concrete floor (which I'll cover with a full sized wrestling mat for starters). My plans are for a woodie 24 feet wide, 14 feet tall (with topout) and a variety of angles. Pictures to come later this spring.

Just looked at Dave's freestanding corner wall from page 8. That's what I'll plan for the corner so total width should be 32 or 36 feet.

Great potential Doug, with a building that large. 40'+ traverse I bet!

Matt Roberts wrote: Use "Seconds Pro" from the iTunes Store. I think its 2.99. You might have to fool with it a tiny bit to figure out what you want it to do, but it will do it. Its very, very slick and flexible. I coach the youth at our gym, and I use it for Tabata intervals, I also use it for intervals on my indoor bike trainer. My wife uses it for running intervals, etc. I can't imagine that there's not an interval set that you can't program.

I'm actually putting together a music mashup thing right now for my next hangboard cycle (the rock prodigy 7x7, 7x6, 7x5 one). A bunch of motivating songs that are exactly 120 beats/minute, with obvious shifts every 7 seconds, and even vocal queues like James Brown yelling "GET UP!"

Old school here; just crank out some AC/DC loud on old CD walkman' or a good ole' fashion boombox. I know what pace I should be at by the 3rd or 4th song on the CD. Works for me.

Seth Derr wrote: It may be short-lived, as the structural integrity of the barn is questionable and i didn't exactly realize this until I had the wall built, but i'm using it til i figure out how much of an issue (i.e. how expensive) it'll be to make the barn safe for the foreseeable future.

I am no structural engineer, however it appears that if all you did was run a few vertical supports at either end of the climbing wall along that beam it would add a lot of support. Something simple would be (for one side) to take two 2x8's and screw them together, cut to length (slightly long) and pound them into place. Put a few attachment screws at the top and maybe something at the bottom to keep it from slipping. Cheap and an easy option and from what I can tell would fix most of the problem.

Another option would be to support the wall independently (ie free-standing wall) which would be more work but could be done for not a ton of money.

Andy Librande wrote: I am no structural engineer, however it appears that if all you did was run a few vertical supports at either end of the climbing wall along that beam it would add a lot of support. Something simple would be (for one side) to take two 2x8's and screw them together, cut to length (slightly long) and pound them into place. Put a few attachment screws at the top and maybe something at the bottom to keep it from slipping. Cheap and an easy option and from what I can tell would fix most of the problem. Another option would be to support the wall independently (ie free-standing wall) which would be more work but could be done for not a ton of money.

It's not the wall itself that's falling over, it's the entire barn. The wall's sturdy as can be.

Just finished this crack hangboard. About 4ft long and adjustable overhang, 5 fixed sizes: camalot 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, and 1. Time will tell how it works!

Have my wall at an interim construction point but still usable. My construction partner is going on vacation and we didn't have the time or necessary wood on hand to complete the 4x8 roof that's going to meet the top of the wall. The 2x4 supporting the middle will not be needed once the roof is installed and we can attach beams that will re-distribute the weight on the main 8x8 panel. One reason the main face is heavy and would flex at the middle without the support beam is it's actually two separate 4x8 panels (we built it that way so it will be possible to eventually get it out of my apartment). It's going to be really awesome when it's finished and I get some more holds, but it's still pretty good for the next couple of weeks.

Darren that looks awesome... I think I'm gonna have to replicate that!

T.J. Esposito wrote:Darren that looks awesome... I think I'm gonna have to replicate that!

2x6s, bare and sanded. 4ft lengths

plywood in the back and to provide support. 2x4s across top and bottom for support.

crack spacers i used were something like:
0.5-0.6" tips(put a slight taper in the tips to cover the pinky locks..)
0.77" tight/good fingers
0.93" rattly/big fingers
1.15" ringlocks
1.30" tight hands

the rope lashing at the bottom acts like a hinge.

daisies provides angle adjustment.

maybe overkill, but it does not flex even if i am campused on it.

Built a couple new volumes for my Wall in the past couple weeks. Since I was going through the trouble I decided to document how to build a simple Triangle Volume with details instructions and measurements for a good sized volume.

If you haven't built a volume for your wall yet you are missing out since they are easy, cheap, and add a lot to your wall.

Please let me know if you have any questions or feedback:

LINK TO INSTRUCTIONS: andylibrande.com/homeclimbi…

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS:

youtube.com/watch?v=TlF1Gzk…

SOME PHOTOS:

Looks sweet! I've got 3 volumes for mine I've been slowing finishing up. I figure they'll be great to put up when I'm bored with current routes.

Nice triangular volumes...much like my designs on my woody for last 6 years. Seems to be an easy way to construct simple volume shapes. See alot of similar ones now used in gym comps too. Guess we are on to the right design technique for sure. I like the geometric shape that woody walls now take due to the increased us of strange volume pieces.

I just want to say thanks to all of you here who have brought climbing back to life for me. I did a little bouldering and "buildering" during college and it slipped away from me since. Many thanks to Andy for sharing his wall photos...I ordered 50 holds today and will start building my outdoor wall based on your build. I'll be glad to share some photos once I'm done. I'll be adding on in different phases as well. I can't wait to share and learn more from all of you.

Heres the re-vamped version of my woody, added the wall on the left.

Slowly getting this thing built in my barn. The right side tops out at just under 14 feet. The lower vertical looking sections are actually about 10 degrees overhanging but I'm thinking of redoing the left half (making the real overhanging portion start at 4 feet off the ground instead of it's current 8 feet).

The exposed wall behind the ladder on the right side of the photo will be filled in to provide an overhanging corner. The loft in the upper right part of the pic will have it's own cave with a 75 degree section of 4 to 5 full panels.

Doug Lintz wrote: Slowly getting this thing built in my barn. The right side tops out at just under 14 feet. The lower vertical looking sections are actually about 10 degrees overhanging but I'm thinking of redoing the left half (making the real overhanging portion start at 4 feet off the ground instead of it's current 8 feet). The exposed wall behind the ladder on the right side of the photo will be filled in to provide an overhanging corner. The loft in the upper right part of the pic will have it's own cave with a 75 degree section of 4 to 5 full panels.

Damn this is a sick wall. On the left side I agree with you and think that you should make it a consistent 20-30 degree wall over the whole length. Lots of climbing holds are created for that angle and it allows you to use very small holds to jugs very easily. I would just put a 2ft kicker and straight up to the ceiling from there.

Nice work!

Thanks Andy. If I stick with a four foot kicker on the left half I can use previously purchased 2x6x12's to keep the framing simple. If I go with a two foot kicker I'll need to buy more lumber.

Attaching the upper plywood is gonna be tough. I'm already stretched out doing the framing with my ten foot ladders.

For padding I've got twenty mattresses. They'll be doubled up with two layers of carpet on top.