Sad representation of Boulder climbers

I was just at Upper Limits yesterday and asked if anyone had read this post/article. No one there had yet. I hope some of their employees can chime in on the topic soon.

Crag Dweller wrote:The story is a poor piece of literature written by someone who comes across as having the maturity of a 5-year old. Having to take a belay test with an ATC, Having to 'rent' a lead rope, Having to drop from a boulder problem rather than top out... Are these things really worth complaining about? BFD...shut up and enjoy the fact that you're able to climb while home for the holidays.

Very True. When I started to climb here in St. Louis all we had was the Good Life climbing gym. Poorly desingned by todays standards but Jim Thurmond did a good job. I loved every time I was there.

We have Upper Limits now and it is a lot better. I used to drive to the UL in Bloomington, IL to climb in the silos just for a change of pace. Granted Jenn may have just been half-joking in her article, but no one around here (living or visiting) should take UL for granted.

Mark Wyss wrote:I was just at Upper Limits yesterday and asked if anyone had read this post/article. No one there had yet. I hope some of their employees can chime in on the topic soon.

Of course they haven't. Why would anyone that lives in St. Louis read a Boulder newspaper?

I can't imagine that anyone that writes for any kind of publication could be dumb enough to think that an article like that would not get a big response. The girl is probably sitting back and enjoying all of the attention. My money says that she is just poking fun at a segment of the climbing community that deserves to be poked every once in a while. I don't mean everyone that lives in Boulder; I mean everyone who has ever talked/looked/typed down to someone else for any reason as trivial as where you choose to live or how you choose to pursue climbing. I have to admit, she made me think about a few things.

I think it's time for everyone to back off a little, chill out with the letter writing and scolding, and see the article for what it is: an attempt to get some of us to realize how silly rock climbing really is, and how ridiculous we all are for taking it so seriously.

Wouldn't you just be glad and appreciate that you had a gym to go to while in St. Louis? I climb at UL and in spite of 27 years of climbing my hair didn't get on fire because I had to take a belay/lead test.

OK, one last comment on one small point, mainly because it continues to amaze me how prevalent the straw man is here...

No one was complaining about them requiring a belay test. The issue was them having anyone take a belay test with an ATC when they were planning to actually use a Gri-Gri. That's like checking to see if someone can walk before allowing them to drive a car.

Every gym SHOULD require belay tests. If any gym wants to ban Gri-Gris or require everyone to use ATCs, FINE! But it seems only logical to test with the device the person plans to use - ESPECIALLY if they plan to use a Gri-Gri (which sees more user-error than all other devices put together).

Have to agree with Ian and Slim.

Crag Dweller wrote:The story is a poor piece of literature written by someone who comes across as having the maturity of a 5-year old. Having to take a belay test with an ATC, Having to 'rent' a lead rope, Having to drop from a boulder problem rather than top out... Are these things really worth complaining about? BFD...shut up and enjoy the fact that you're able to climb while home for the holidays.

You are quite the literary master yourself. Explain to me the structure of the following sentence:

Having to take a belay test with an ATC, Having to 'rent' a lead rope, Having to drop from a boulder problem rather than top out... Are these things really worth complaining about?

I think its reflective of our culture that so many people consider her work to be 'poor literature'. At what point did satire cease to be literature? Read "A Modest Proposal" by Jonathan Swift for some classic satire. If you really think he is advocating eating babies, you need to attend high school again.

Kevin Craig wrote:Every gym SHOULD require belay tests. If any gym wants to ban Gri-Gris or require everyone to use ATCs, FINE! But it seems only logical to test with the device the person plans to use - ESPECIALLY if they plan to use a Gri-Gri (which sees more user-error than all other devices put together).

Good point- especially that last sentance... there's another thread on here about Gri-Gri mishaps, and they appear to be numerous.

Reading stuff like this reminds me of how lucky I was to have lived in Boulder in the 60's and how glad I am that I don't live there now.

How can an extremely boring/uninspired/pseudo-self deprecatory article spawn 4 pages of thread? I'm afraid MP really needs an enema.

CoffeeClimber wrote: LOVE IT!!!!

Has Boulder diversified? I think I caught a glimpse of the Pearl Street Mall in the documentary music video. WORD TO YOUR MOTHER, and long live Vanilla Ice.

PS [I got it CofeeClimber- Tee Hee]

Bump for the First Of Tha Month!

youtube.com/watch?v=bpBP9dA…;feature=related

Happy New Year! : )

Disclaimer: My sweetie's from Boulder [No, he's not a trust fund baby]. I love the place, and you people!

We at Upper Limits actually did read the article after it was brought to our attention, and weren't offended by it in the least. We are an indoor rock climbing gym, and we have instituted rules and regulations that people don't always like or understand. We climbers tend to be, as Jenn stated, an outlaw bunch, so Upper Limits also hears a good share of complaints regarding said rules and regulations. We're used to it, and, honestly, took her blog to be more satirical than serious.

We also understand Jenn's frustration with our smallish facility. When the original location was built in downtown St. Louis 10 years ago, the sport of climbing hadn't yet exploded in the Midwest, and the current gym was appropriate for our customer base. Now, however, it's time to join the big leagues, and we are so excited for the next phase in Upper Limit's development. Upper Limits' second St. Louis location boasts wall build-out by Rockwerx, top-out boulders (come back, Jenn! We'll let you top-out those boulders!), separate group areas, a massive arch, exercise room, etc. Feel free to look us up if you're ever in the area! I can guarantee we have some of the friendliest members around (and we can tell you where all the good micro-brews are!).

Brandi Ball
General Manager - Upper Limits, St. Louis

I spent five years in STL and while I didn't care for STL as a place to live, I was so happy to have UL and the fun folks there including Brandi. So yeah, it's not Boulder, but so what? Embrace the variation.

I think that Brandi's (from Upper Limits) post is the best of four pages of whine, drivel and outrage. Thanks Brandi for reminding us what a mature response looks like. I'll be sure to visit when I'm in STL.
Mal

Malcolm Daly wrote:I think that Brandi's (from Upper Limits) post is the best of four pages of whine, drivel and outrage. Thanks Brandi for reminding us what a mature response looks like. I'll be sure to visit when I'm in STL. Mal

+1

And even though I'm a New England elitist, my sister lives in nearby St. Charles and every time I've been out to visit I've thought St. Louis to be cool town.

GMBurns wrote: +1 And even though I'm a New England elitist, my sister lives in nearby St. Charles and every time I've been out to visit I've thought St. Louis to be cool town.

OK. Apparently I suck at adding photos to MP. The Photo (if anyone cares)

Thanks, Mal! We'd love to have you visit next time you're in town!

And Callie, we miss you! The gym isn't the same without you.

Brandi

Mike Lane wrote:How can an extremely boring/uninspired/pseudo-self deprecatory article spawn 4 pages of thread? I'm afraid MP really needs an enema.

It's F'n cold out Mike.... what the hell else are we gonna do? Tomorrow looks OK tho.

Sarcasm is the bottom-dweller of social humor.

Just call me a catfish.

call me an idiot .... but i dont see the problem with having people use an ATC for their belay test ... if you cant belay properly with an ATC ... IMO you shouldnt be climbing at all

there are some gyms that ONLY allow the use of gri gris in toronto ... IMO they are doing their members a disservice unless those members plan to climb outdoors with gri gris only

that being said ... its their gym and their rules .. if you dont like it ... climb somewhere else, go outdoors ... or go climb that funy st louis arch thingamajig ...