Rope Severed by Carabiner

looks like a #4 to me. aside from that, yeah cleaning draws at the mother lode is going to be a pain. i am pretty anti permadraws, but i can see the value of having them there. probably best to get a bunch of folks together to chip in and get some steel biners, similar to a lot of gyms.

Coeus wrote: If you are such a hard trad climber, then why are you calling that blue camalot in your hand a #4 in the caption. Why don't you practice being a climber a bit more before you stick your uninformed opinion where it doesn't belong.

Haha, because it is a #4 cam. The BD #3 is dark blue while the #4 lobe is a lighter blue. Take a look at the photo then of my profile pic. It is clearly a #4.

If you want to use perma draws by all means go ahead. I am not gonna sit here and argue that you shouldn't. In the world of climbing, any expert will tell you never to trust gear you don't know the history of. It is common sense, but I guess that is why we have accidents that could easily be avoided. You really don't need to be trying to flame someone else's post I am sitting here asking why you can't just take your own gear up and not use the other gear in place. Do us all a favor and drop your ego for a few and realize we are doing something we all equally love to do and try to take others opinions to heart as even the "dumbest" trad climber can help you avoid killing yourself. Cheers.

For clarification, I never said I was a hard core trad climber. I love trad, sport, ice, bouldering and pretty much climbing in general. I do not hate towards any particular type of climbing and enjoy the company of others outdoors. If I am not at work and pulling on rock it is a great day.

slim wrote:looks like a #4 to me. aside from that, yeah cleaning draws at the mother lode is going to be a pain. i am pretty anti permadraws, but i can see the value of having them there. probably best to get a bunch of folks together to chip in and get some steel biners, similar to a lot of gyms.

Slim, that is def a way to go right there. If you must insist on perma then utilize the best equipment possible.

Bud Martin wrote:^ Cleaning Overhanging or Traversing Routes Just remember to unclip from the other side of the rope BEFORE you unclip the last piece or you will take your belayer for a ride. (Did this to my girlfriend, she wasn't psyched.)

Ditto . Just saw a guy do this to his girlfriend at RRG on Sunday. She was swept off her feet and taken within inches of a big tree 20 ft. away.

tony tuttle wrote:Are fixed draws common on sport routes in other areas of the country? Aside from somebody projecting a hard sport route and leaving their own draws up, I don't think I've heard of this being done. I haven't been climbing out east though. Utah, Idaho, Nevada, California mostly.

Are you sure you've actually been climbing in Utah? There are fixed draws all over the place in Maple Canyon.

Jay

George Heib wrote: even the "dumbest" trad climber can help you avoid killing yourself.

Im certain im the dumbest trad climber and I cant help anyone avoid killing themselves. Sorry guys.

tony tuttle wrote:Are fixed draws common on sport routes in other areas of the country? Aside from somebody projecting a hard sport route and leaving their own draws up, I don't think I've heard of this being done. I haven't been climbing out east though. Utah, Idaho, Nevada, California mostly.

Since your profile says you live in SLC, you might want to check out Hell's cave and El Diablo wall in AF canyon, China cave/wall in Logan canyon, and you seriously need to hit up Maple canyon.

Ted Farley wrote: Im certain im the dumbest trad climber and I cant help anyone avoid killing themselves. Sorry guys.

+1 For truth, I climb with this guy.

I removed two of these death bringers from the top of Ro Shampo this past Friday. Apparently people are not getting the picture.

You "removed" Bud & Ted from the top of a cliff, is that what we call it now??

Joe Virtanen wrote:I removed two of these death bringers from the top of Ro Shampo this past Friday. Apparently people are not getting the picture.

i climbed the route, but followed me up and just before we tried to make the parkour leap to the sandy bottom joe busted out his 50 foot stick clip to help us down. thanks again joe, we owe ya!

ps i think this thread is done

No problem, I have a picture of that too!

Two weeks ago the leaver biners on the Ro Shampo anchor were still newish, that thing must see crazy traffic.

Forestvonsinkafinger wrote:Two weeks ago the leaver biners on the Ro Shampo anchor were still newish, that thing must see crazy traffic.

Or... some jackass jacked the good biners and left the crappy death biners.