West Slabs Info

When is it too late to hit the West Slabs? Timp is white this afternoon, so I don't imagine there's much time left.

Never too late now. There's bolted anchors the whole way. Boy, does that make me happy.

zoso wrote:Never too late now. There's bolted anchors the whole way. Boy, does that make me happy.

If you can find them, I only found three sets of anchors when I climbed it last fall. I know I must have been off route, but it's pretty easy to get off route when you're climbing such an easy slab.

TP in SLC wrote: Too many bullshit routes being put up "for beginners". I think these over protected routes with convenience anchors all over them (in the name of beginners) is robbing the learning process more than helping. These bolts are a perfect example of robbing a generation of climbers of an experience shared by a couple generations before them.

+1

A whole generation of climbers did just fine learning around here without bolted 5.4's

TP in SLC wrote:The preferred descent is hard to find. But you walk off west hugging the shoulder of the slab; a gully will appear and let you traverse back north and along the slab back to where you started climbing. I think there is a killer picture in the 1996 guidebook. If you don't hug the shoulder on the way down prepare for battle! 8' scrub oak canyons with an 8' backyard fences waiting for you at the bottom, it sucks.

Alternately, you can follow the ridge east a couple hundred feet and downclimb the steep gully looker's left of the wall. Fairly straightforward though a bit exposed in a couple places. Doesn't really suck.

sawyer wylie wrote:I have a friend who was on it about a week ago and said he met people choping the bolts.

This makes me immensely happy. Good work choppers (Note sarcasm with my 1st post and NONE with this one).

TP's info is spot on, stay on the shoulder heading W until you hit the gully and this drops you back to the base of the slabs. I recently missed it and tackled the gully climbers right. I've never hated life so much before... I ended up stumbling on the white wall, went around to find a lady in her driveway screaming at me. I bolted (he he) as she called the cops and had to roll under the fence of the gated community I was in. No fun.

Regarding the bolts, at least a couple people will shit their pants in rage. Good. I have the feeling this might just be the beginning of the cleanup. Bring diapers.

Austin, you'll have a chance to climb the slabs before winter. One sunny day should clear them off.

kennoyce wrote: If you can find them, I only found three sets of anchors when I climbed it last fall. I know I must have been off route, but it's pretty easy to get off route when you're climbing such an easy slab.

Last time I was up there I had no trouble spotting at least 15 anchor stations. Some within 20' of each other. I'm guessing that the stations would have been left alone if they weren't placed next to perfectly good natural protection, and there weren't so many of them. Seriously, you can forgive one gangster raping your sister, but when the whole posse takes a turn, it's time to start busting caps. When they come back for your mother, it's easy to see why you're angry.

For my part, +1 for removing the crapy bolts. We could leave one line of them. Doesn't everyone think that they must have been put there by Tiny Cock types.

Rapping the route is not preferred, but if you do, plan on getting your ropes stuck. Low angles, lots of natural pro to get your rope stuck on.

If you traverse climbers right to the top of the ridge, you'll eventually come to the descent gully. There are several slung trees if you're not a fan of down climbing 4th class terrain.

This post is so full of win I don't even know which part to start laughing at first!

No need for any bolts..... Chop em

Thanks for the info guys. Another question - how easy is it to solo this? I'm a confident 5.10 leader and a fairly confident 5.11b leader. If I do solo it, are there places to escape if necessary or are you committed once you get on?

FREE THE WASATCH FROM THE TC SERIAL BOLTER.

Price wrote:Austin, you'll have a chance to climb the slabs before winter. One sunny day should clear them off. Last time I was up there I had no trouble spotting at least 15 anchor stations. Some within 20' of each other. I'm guessing that the stations would have been left alone if they weren't placed next to perfectly good natural protection, and there weren't so many of them. Seriously, you can forgive one gangster raping your sister, but when the whole posse takes a turn, it's time to start busting caps. When they come back for your mother, it's easy to see why you're angry. For my part, +1 for removing the crapy bolts. We could leave one line of them. Doesn't everyone think that they must have been put there by Tiny Cock types. Rapping the route is not preferred, but if you do, plan on getting your ropes stuck. Low angles, lots of natural pro to get your rope stuck on. If you traverse climbers right to the top of the ridge, you'll eventually come to the descent gully. There are several slung trees if you're not a fan of down climbing 4th class terrain.

+1,000,000,000,000,000

Austin, To actually answer your question... If your leading 5.10 you will run it like dan osman on lovers leap along with a shit eating grin. Go hit it up, you'll dig it, au natural, new and improved organic style.

Austin Baird wrote:Thanks for the info guys. Another question - how easy is it to solo this? I'm a confident 5.10 leader and a fairly confident 5.11b leader. If I do solo it, are there places to escape if necessary or are you committed once you get on?

Its super easy. My first and only run up it was with a major hangover and no rope. You can down climb it if need be. There are ledges for lunch. Hence, the ridiculousness of bolting the route and the descent.

Price wrote:Austin, you'll have a chance to climb the slabs before winter. One sunny day should clear them off. Last time I was up there I had no trouble spotting at least 15 anchor stations. Some within 20' of each other. I'm guessing that the stations would have been left alone if they weren't placed next to perfectly good natural protection, and there weren't so many of them. Seriously, you can forgive one gangster raping your sister, but when the whole posse takes a turn, it's time to start busting caps. When they come back for your mother, it's easy to see why you're angry. For my part, +1 for removing the crapy bolts. We could leave one line of them. Doesn't everyone think that they must have been put there by Tiny Cock types. Rapping the route is not preferred, but if you do, plan on getting your ropes stuck. Low angles, lots of natural pro to get your rope stuck on. If you traverse climbers right to the top of the ridge, you'll eventually come to the descent gully. There are several slung trees if you're not a fan of down climbing 4th class terrain.

Wow, that's rediculous, Thinking about it more, I climbed the route two years ago, and the beta I got said that there were anchors every 200'. I ran across 3 sets of anchors one at 400', 600', and 800'. I did rap the route using the abundance of slung trees through the top section of the route, the three bolted stations I mentioned, and another slung tree for the last rap. I don't know how the walkoff is, but I certainly wouldn't want to do the rap again (due to stuck ropes and having to reclimb sections to get the ropes unstuck then downclimb back to the rap stations). Of the three rap stations that I saw, only the ones at 400 and 800 feet were even needed to rap because the one at 600' was right infront of a BFT. I fully support chopping the convenience anchors I think they are completely unnecessary, and make you think that rapping the route is a good idea(which it is not).

SL,UT wrote:Lets start chopping chairlifts too! I don't want to see any of you riding them. Back when I learned how to ski you had to hike to the top. I'm so old school and cool. Plus all of those lifts in LCC just go to the same place.

This discussion is not about old established bolts. It is about relatively recently added bolts to a traditionally adventure route. If you want to make the analogy to skiing, that's fine, let's do so: We already have TONS of lift-severed terrain in LCC and BCC. We don't need lifts up Hogum or Cardiff.

SL,UT wrote:Sorry about the rant...I really need to pay more attention to Guideline # 1, dont be a jerk. Once again sorry. I just don't understand why we can't be more accomadating to beginners or people of different climbing abilities.

Because in my opinion, dumbing shit down for the lowest common denominator is doing them a disservice in the end. Learned skills can save your life or your friends life...and commitment is a great thing. In a society of convenience...choose difficulty...that is why we climb...right?. If these concepts seem strange...maybe climbing isn't for everyone. I think our community is amazingly tolerant...maybe these beginning climbers need to sack up. Climbing is dangerous...and if it's too scary...then maybe some extreme checkers would suite them better.

SL,UT wrote:
Sorry about the rant...I really need to pay more attention to Guideline # 1, dont be a jerk. Once again sorry. I just don't understand why we can't be more accomadating to beginners or people of different climbing abilities.

Accommodating: Slips, Geezer wall, dogwood, school room, Draper Red Rock, half of American Fork.

Not Accommodating: Making it so easy that there is no challenge or respect.

Hell, why don't we lower all the NBA hoops to 8 feet, so when I make the Jazz starting lineup I can dunk too. (If the other players don't want that, we can keep the 10 footer in there for them and they can just ignore the 8 footer.)

If you want to play in the minor leagues, I suggest you find some low angle rock and establish your own routes. If it's on private land and no one else is climbing it, you can put a bolt every 2 feet for all any one would care.

Austin, go solo this thing. After you do, you'll be surprised that you ever considered bringing a rope. Then you'll probably want to go do it again the next day.

Agreed. My 1st time I drug a rope and ran it out til the rope ran out and set an anchor--the whole way up. The book says, "exposure that just keeps increasing the whole way". Personally I only felt it was exposed (mentally @ least) for the 1st 200 feet or so. After that it was so slabby it felt very secure.

Have done it sans rope ever since. Makes a good alpine workout.