Easy Aid Routes Near SLC

Hello, I'm new to the Mtn Project but hope someone can help provide some information. I'm visiting the SLC, PC area soon and I'm looking for an easier clean (or fixed) aid climb (C1/C2) but tall enough to get up off the deck and teach my son some pig hauling, jugging, setting up ledges from slings, and general wall techniques. (We'll get to hooking, bashies and tied off blades another day.) I find most information is directed to LCC routes called Rivets and the Peeler which sound fine (but really popular?). However, are there not any other longer thin crack climbs around that would give us options? How about a simple rivet or bolt ladder someone has put up for this purpose in a less popular free climbing arena? I'm thinking a nice steep finger crack say 20m or 30m would also work out great! Thanks for any ideas.

i'd riveting to the peeler direct is your best bet. i've never seen a single party on it.

is C2, but requires a lot of micro gear. A cam-hook is recommended also. The Riveting bolt ladder to get to Peeler Direct is easy and fast, but kind of lame. You can also access the route from the left via a pitch of C1/C2 and a 5.7+ traverse. You will not see anyone else there.

Fallen Arches probably goes at C1/C2. There is a 2-bolt anchor halfway up Fallen Arches which would be ideal for deploying a 'ledge. It is extremely unlikely anyone will be wanting to get on this route while you are there; however, they would be mighty bummed. (Even though I know several people who have climbed it, I have only once seen someone on it.)

Stratosphere has one hook move and .10d free-climbing, so that might be out. Otherwise, the top of pitch 3 would be good for a 'ledge. Again, you would probably have the whole buttress to yourself.

um...zion?

Bobby - Stratosphere sounds great but maybe a bit high on the free rating. Is it possible to aid with hooks or nuts through the 10c/d and other harder free sections to turn it into an mostly aid route? Does the roof in the photos of Fallen Arches make up part of the route. That would be cool.

Are the 3 routes you mention reasonable for a haul bag lesson?

Trevor - Zion is slated for October actually. I didn't want to introduce and work out the kinks on the popular walls there (T-Wall or Prodigal) with my son. When we pull in there I wanted to just jump on a route and go.

Fallen Arches follows the cracks. It doesn't pull the roof. There are routes nearby (see the Trinity) which do pull through an impressive roof. I don't know if they can be aided at C1/C2 though. If you are in the area with aid gear anyway, might as well do the Schoolroom Roof. Not worth hauling on though.

Fallen Arches and Peeler Direct are both good choices for learning to haul a pig. Both are just barely under vertical, and relatively plumb. In this case, I would probably recommend Riveting over the regular start to Peeler Direct.

Try both pitches of the Coffin Crack during off hours. I did this once when I was learning how to aid climb...it worked well. It's great that you're trying to practice first on the shorter cliffs before going to Zion. The more routes you get on the faster you'll send.

Bobby Hanson wrote: There are routes nearby (see the Trinity) which do pull through an impressive roof. I don't know if they can be aided at C1/C2 though.

Trinity Left could and its a steep finger-ish crack.

With Brian's suggestion, you could do BongEater the same way, saving a big cam for the top. Stump the Stars would work and you'd never have to worry about crowds.

Great feedback ALL! Thank you.

TP/ Is Town Drunk on the main wall (I'm picturing the walls around Great White Icicle) and the approach via the old powerhouse pipe? How tall is this bolt ladder?

BSMoot- I one or two walls under my belt, enough to know what kinks need to be worked out even with some experience, especially teaching others. Zion has some routes that are great for developing wall techniques for new aspirants but not a place (I believe) to teach the basic mechanics. They're just too crowded anymore to spend unnecessary time on, to teach stuff that can be taught and learned elsewhere. Thanks for the encouragement./Curtis