Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Aid, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: Eric Eliason and Lenny Nelson, late 1960's
Page Views: 3,977 total · 27/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Very thin crack with so so gear. I think if you fell, a lot of the gear would pull out until you hit the four bolts at the start.

Location

From the top of Riveting head up four more bolts to realy thin crack with a bashie as the first move. Climb the thin crack with marginal gear.

Protection

BD C3's, ballnuts, and small nuts work well. Bring tons and tons of small stuff.
The gear's really not too bad on this one. Small offset nuts work really well for the midsection of the climb, either HBs or Wild Country superlight rocks. C3s or hybrid aliens work well down low, and there are good tcu and nut placements later in the climb. A cam hook can be really useful to skip some of the marginal, fiddly nut placements.

Don't clip the rope to the fixed bashy after aiding on it. If you fall it will rip and that part of the climb probably won't go clean if the bashy is gone.

Also, a single rope rap with a 60 m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap station at the top of the crack (tie knots in the end). Nov 5, 2006
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I thought the gear on this was easy, and straight forward. I carried 2 metolius offset cams (0-1,1-2) a set of peenuts, one small cam hook, and a standard rack from 00 metolius to .75 BD c4. perfect rack for this climb. Definitely fun! Jul 11, 2011
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
  C2
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
  C2
This climb is actually 2 pitches, sharing the same first pitch as Black peeler, but they diverge at the ramp. On P2, it is a pretty long reach from the last bolt to the bashie even though I was top stepping. Maybe the bashie was at the bottom of the crack before like it says in the description, but it is at least another foot higher than where I was expecting it considering that the bolts to get there can be ascended from the 2nd or 3rd steps. I had to top step and tie a quickdraw open to get the extra inches to reach the bashie and I was in directly to the last bolt. Maybe a top-step sub-step would have worked. This is a fun clean aid route.
Gear: small gear up to a #0.5 C4 for Peeler direct, and a #0.75 can be placed if doing P1 of Black Peeler to access the ramp and start of the route. Mastercams and small nuts worked well, offsets would have helped, cam hooks got their use, but no other body weight/hooks/peckers were necessary. Jul 9, 2012
Alma Madsen
Foster City, CA
 
Alma Madsen   Foster City, CA
 
I had to do the same as DrApnea - tied a quickdraw open and had to top step to clip the bashie. I was clipped in direct to the top bolt of the bolt ladder and I'm 6' 2". Once on the bashie, the rest of the climbing was pretty straightforward. I few trickier placements in the lower half, and the upper half ate up small cams, especially offsets. Didn't use one on this route today, but cam hooks would have worked well. Overall, a really fun aid route.

Gear placed: Micro brass offset, HB #5 brass offset, DMM walnut #2, #5, Metolius offset master cams 00/0, 0/1, 1/2, BD X4 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, BD C4 0.3 Sep 13, 2014
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
The first ascent was by Eric Eliason and Lenny Nelson, late 1960's Sep 17, 2017
A history of the P.D. Started in 1965 with Paul Anderson to heckle Ellsworth&Conrod. I returned in 69 with Dave Boyd. Dave was the responsible person for all the hard work on pitch two. Using old "Betons" ( a god awful wrapping of aluminum wire around a steel wire loop) rurps and tied off knifeblades he reached and established the bolt ladder. unfortunately dave's work took him out of town. after a delay Eric wanted to finsh the route, not knowing when dave was coming back, I agreed. Eric and I finished the route the in the fall of 1969 and dave never spoke to me again. Lenny Nelson S.L,C. 29 aug 2018 Aug 29, 2018
zoso  
Ooooo, please please post a pic of a "Beton"! Aug 29, 2018
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Zozo, see photo...of a Beton. In 1976, my friend Steve Aldous took a fall when this popped, It was placed in a ridiculously shallow little groove....can't believe it held on an earlier ascent. It was located just off of the ramp at the start of the bolt ladder....props to Dave Boyd for placing it! Maybe Lenny can explain how they're made! Aug 29, 2018

More About Peeler Direct

Printer-Friendly