.

....

I haven't lived on the Front Range in a while but I remember liking Plan B in Boulder Canyon.

Hell, there is a lifetime worth of routes at Shelf Rd in that range.
My Favorites:
Clear Creek: Wet Dream, Balkan Dirt Diving, The Reward/Convicted Felon
Boulder Canyon: Empire of the Fenceless
Shelf Rd: Heavy Weather, Freeform, Spicy Pickle

More will come to me later.

The Ticket and Jolt Cola are two of my favorites. On Blob Rock.

I'm in the same spot. Freeform is at the top of my list. Phenomenal route.

T

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Empire of the Fenceless.

There are also a couple hard elevens nearby that will prove challenging, if not tougher. A really fun crag.

Hell ya on Redneck Hero!

Fission in CCC is given 12c, but it's soft 12b IMO.
Undertow is amazing
Just another Boys climb, given 11d, but is harder than Undertow at 12b
Redneck hero...agreed
Tell Tale Heart...better than Empire which is glued to hell.

Ripcord and Free Fall at Avalon are not very hard at the grade and might go quickly. Both are technical and not too long. They are also side-by-side and could give you 2 for the price of 1 in terms either opportunity or routes to work on.
Good luck!

Tom T wrote:I'm surprised no one has mentioned Empire of the Fenceless. There are also a couple hard elevens nearby that will prove challenging, if not tougher. A really fun crag.

See above. Empire of the Fenceless was the only one I could remember in Boulder Canyon last night. The route has a little bit of glue down low, but that's all I can remember. Who gives a shit? It's a good route nonetheless. It's glue, not a plastic, or chipped hold.

Of yeah a really good one that probably doesn't see too many ascents is Warf Factor at the Overhung Wall in Boulder Canyon. Technically it's at the Sport Park, but it's not at the Sport Park proper. Located downstream and below the main areas. Steep and all natural granite climbing with a fine crux at the top.

Dave Cummings wrote:Le Boomerang 11+ in Eldo Sequential 12a in Eldo Free Speech 12a in Eldo Cinch Crack 12b in Eldo Apple Studel 12a ...

Re-read the title of this post - "Good 12a sport routes to project in the front range?" I don't know about all the routes you posted but a good number are not "sport" routes. Sequential has zero bolts for starters so wouldn't even be a "mixed" route.

A little glue? the whole bottom is a terrible glue job...the jug wobbles and it's ugly. the route 5 feet to the right is way better and has no glue. If you're going to pick a route to be psyched on, project, and put time and energy into, why not pick one that's aesthetically pleasing to look at and doesn't move on you?

Blake Cash wrote:A little glue? the whole bottom is a terrible glue job...the jug wobbles and it's ugly. the route 5 feet to the right is way better and has no glue. If you're going to pick a route to be psyched on, project, and put time and energy into, why not pick one that's aesthetically pleasing to look at and doesn't move on you?

Tell-Tale Heart is definitely leagues better, but I haven't been to that wall in 2 yrs. I'm hoping to get there today, or tomorrow. I'll probably rethink my thoughts on Empire once I do. I just remember that big hold that wobbled having the only glue on it that had pretty much deteriorated when I did that route 3 yrs ago. I was trying to stay within the confines of guidebook 12a routes without the soft/hard consensus from the database.

Big Dog at The Dog House in CCC is a lot of fun. If you're opposed to manufactured holds, you'll have a problem with the route. Whoever put it up must've been excited to use their new drill and glue gun. But, it's fun regardless and the route can be done w/o using the drilled holds.

hipster (at the new hipster wall) in clear creek is a fun little 12a. very gymnastic. has a fantastic 11b to warm up on, right next to it.

jarthur wrote: Tell-Tale Heart is definitely leagues better, but I haven't been to that wall in 2 yrs. I'm hoping to get there today, or tomorrow. I'll probably rethink my thoughts on Empire once I do. I just remember that big hold that wobbled having the only glue on it that had pretty much deteriorated when I did that route 3 yrs ago. I was trying to stay within the confines of guidebook 12a routes without the soft/hard consensus from the database.

Fair enough. The crux on Empire is cool...but the start is not the most fun and inspiring rock climbing. Tale Tell is definitely the route I'd put someone on who can climb in that range.

Wet Dream is a good test of several skills - overhanging gymnastic, slab, and a small roof pull. Wall of the 90's.

Boulder Quartz System is great. Not sure about access to Plotinus wall right now though.

Hot Flyer and Plan B are on Security Risk and both really good. I think this crag is closed until July though.

5.11d, but Eiger Direct is stellar (Little Eiger wall in Clear Creek).

Most of the 12a's are going to be 5.11d/5.12a depending on who you ask, but that seems to be the case with a lot of climbs straddling the number grades. I mention it because several suggestions so far are like this.

Here's a few more I've done that I always go back to repeat. These are in the Flatirons area.

The Big Picture
Undertow
Shalohsh
Chains of Love

These are rated anywhere from 11d to 12b but all the cruxes (to me) seem like either one move wonders or enduro pitches. All are 5 stars in my book.

Is Chains of Love closed right now? I was up at the slab Sunday and wanted to go do it, but was unsure if it was closed or not. Mentor's not closed right?

hell shumin, you don't work 12a sport routes, you onsite them. i've seen you climb a couple times,usually in the 12 range on gear. you should be projecting well into the 13 range.