Climbing a route with a stick clip?

Well, sport climbing is just glorified toproping anyway. If the objective is to just do hard moves without worrying about risk, why not do something like this?

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r133/TheCamhead/672125800_jXpB5-O.jpg

Shumin Wu wrote: Trophy!!! We can use a jt512 at mp.com.

Oops...did I say that? I didn't realize it had transpired to more than a fleeting thought in my head... The comment was a bit snide and I apologize for my transgression of rule #1.

I'm thinking also of designing some moveable bolts. As you reach for the stick-clippie, the bolt just kinda sorta moves up the wall, like a magnetic-field repellent.

Shumin Wu wrote: Trophy!!! We can use a jt512 at mp.com.

:) funniest thing I've read today!

I honestly don't really care what people do as long as they don't hog a route all day. You can have your time with the rock. do what you want. But it just looks super sketchy. The one in penitente was some chick on a slab sliding around, while the stick clip swung all over.

Driving to the hospital with a four foot rod impaled through your kidney would be more adventurous than just free soloing the thing.

The method can be quite civilized, actually. You stick clip the first bolt, batman to it, clip in to it, stick clip the next, batman to it, clip in to it, etc. You can have a toprope on your new project in just a few minutes. Seems way more efficient than flailing and bailing off of your own draws.

Though I've never done this, I've seen it implemented quite safely.

Again, just to clarify, this technique never involves actually climbing with a stick clip attached to you.

Next time I see someone doing what I saw I'll inform them they are doing it "wrong"

I have actually done this lame method of ascent on multiple occasions.

Usually on something pretty hard (like 12b or harder) with old school bolting ,so we are talking like 8-10 feet between bolts.

The idea is that you are having trouble going bolt to bolt, so you use this method to rig a top rope. Then you work the line into submission on TR, then finally try a real lead after you figure out the moves.

Although I didn't use this method often, I quit doing it completely almost a decade ago. I found I could almost always go bolt-to-bolt even on hard lines, if I would just try it and take an occasional fall. Which is no big deal.

There are two risks to using the stickclipitup method:
1. Minor Risk: you will become a weenie and tend to default to the TR method rather than just going for it.

2. More significant risk: at the moment you clip into the single bolt and pull up all that slack, you are 100% reliant on that single bolt and whatever you have clipped into it. So in the unlikely event of a bolt or gear failure, you have no backup.

My advice: use your stick clip as intended - to clip a high first bolt. Then throw it in the bushes. You will have more fun without it.

Is it really that hard to use the bolt gun?

Dusty wrote: Your profile says that you lead 5.10b, but follow 5.11d... you must have an enormous pair of balls!

that's right, dick...er, i mean, dusty. i like to be realistic in my claims. if i can't regularly onsight a grade, i don't claim that i can lead that grade. i have not cleanly climbed an 11d yet so i'm not claiming i can lead it. but, i've taken plenty of big falls trying.

but, don't worry, i promise i won't make fun of you if i see you working your way up a route with a clip stick.

bob branscomb wrote:....If you're really pushing your limits trying to improve and don't care about doing an on-sight, why not?

95% of climbing is mental toughness. You aren't pushing your limits when you eliminate your potential for a fall.
If you just have to get on stuff that is too hard, or too scary for you, please just top rope it. That way newbies don't get stupid ideas that they might end up using and then hurting themselves. One more good reason not too. Because people are going to laugh at you if they see you doing it.

TedV,

I just laugh at people that think they can actually reach 65% of sport route anchors from the top of the cliff. Also at most sport areas, its not appropriate to go to the top of the crag because of rockfall. Let people do their own thing as long as it doesn't affect your group. Know it all Gumbies make me angry sometimes.....sorry.

What's the big deal about stick clips? After quick look at the tick lists of some the naysayers (btw I know mine is blank), I would suggest this for some people. I am not trying to be rude, just politely offering a suggestion for improvement. How will you ever know what your body is capable of if you never try something that is out of your league? Getting on routes harder than you can do often make routes at your limit not seem as hard.

Many people get in the way of their own progess by adhering to antiquated notions of the "right way" to do things. My experience through the grades taught me that if I wanted to climb 5.12, I had to get on 5.12, lots of 5.11 wasn't enough. So stick clipping up a route to get a top rope on it has helped me get where I want to be.

Crag Dweller wrote: that's right, dick...er, i mean, dusty. i like to be realistic in my claims. if i can't regularly onsight a grade, i don't claim that i can lead that grade. i have not cleanly climbed an 11d yet so i'm not claiming i can lead it. but, i've taken plenty of big falls trying. but, don't worry, i promise i won't make fun of you if i see you working your way up a route with a clip stick.

It sounds like someones getting fussy.

Coeus wrote:What's the big deal about stick clips? After quick look at the tick lists of some the naysayers (btw I know mine is blank), I would suggest this for some people. I am not trying to be rude, just politely offering a suggestion for improvement. How will you ever know what your body is capable of if you never try something that is out of your league? Getting on routes harder than you can do often make routes at your limit not seem as hard. Many people get in the way of their own progess by adhering to antiquated notions of the "right way" to do things. My experience through the grades taught me that if I wanted to climb 5.12, I had to get on 5.12, lots of 5.11 wasn't enough. So stick clipping up a route to get a top rope on it has helped me get where I want to be.

Yep.
Also, why the hell do people care if someone else uses a stick clip?
You do your route the way you want to do it, I'll climb mine the way I want.

So what your saying is that you are so scared of falling that you "have" to use a stick clip? Because I can't honestly think of any other reason why you would "have" to use one between bolts.

Just a thought from a gumbie who has never used a stick clip in 21 years of climbing.

Phil Lauffen wrote:Next time I see someone doing what I saw I'll inform them they are doing it "wrong"

That seems like the right thing to do. It certainly sounds like they were doing something wrong.

TedV wrote:So what your saying is that you are so scared of falling that you "have" to use a stick clip? Because I can't honestly think of any other reason why you would "have" to use one between bolts. Just a thought from a gumbie who has never used a stick clip in 21 years of climbing.

Sometimes you simply cannot pull the moves between bolts! If you're projecting a climb which is truly at your limit, you probably won't be able to do all of the moves your first time on the climb. So you suss out the moves on toprope, then start doing lead burns, and eventually send. I think the most rewarding climbs are the ones which you can't possibly fathom redpointing the first day on, but after a few days on the rock, you execute it flawlessly.

TedV wrote:So what your saying is that you are so scared of falling that you "have" to use a stick clip? Because I can't honestly think of any other reason why you would "have" to use one between bolts. Just a thought from a gumbie who has never used a stick clip in 21 years of climbing.

Falling isn't always scary...sometimes it is inconvenient. I would rather not expend the energy trying to hang draws and get the rope up. It is using my time and energy efficiently to complete a route in this style (i.e. after work climbing, short winter days etc.)
In 21 years of climbing without a stick clip, what is your hardest send? Your tick list suggests 5.10+? Don't be a stick in the mud...try a stick clip, you might just get that 5.11 you've been dreaming of.

Dusty wrote: I think the most rewarding climbs are the ones which you can't possibly fathom redpointing the first day on, but after a few days on the rock, you execute it flawlessly.

Taking this notion one step further...I have recently broken into a new grade on trad gear because I "cheat" and use a stick clip on practice (read: sport) climbs that were too hard. Suddenly 12a on gear isn't so bad because it isn't as hard physically as 13a. My mental state is relaxed because I know my body can do it. Now that's rewarding.