1 year of rock climbing

So, my first tick on mountain project was exactly 1 year ago. I don't know the first day I actually first tied into the sharp end and started leading, but it was within a few days of that I'm sure.

Anyways, don't really know what this thread about, but I just wanted to share my experiences so far.

-I've been bouldering at the spot for about the past two years on monday nights
-I was first introduced to trad back in April(over a year ago) when my friend Mike took me up the first flatiron. What fun! It got me instantly hooked
-After I went back to cs for the summer I worked until I could purchase a dozen draws and a rope.
-Then I hit up Red Rock Canyon Open Space, a sweet little sport location that has very safe and accessible climbing.
-The first time I ever lead a climb was my second climb(after the first flatiron)
-I read The Freedom of the Hills about three times
-As soon as I could I bought my trad rack(2 hexes, 2 cams, a set of nuts and 3 tri-cams)
-And fell in love with trad
-And now I get antsy if I don't climb 3 or 4 times a week

Specifically in this adventure:
- I have only climbed with people that have had more experience than me 3 times( T.Bubb, Mike, P. Gallagher)
-I have led probably 95 percent of all pitches I have ever done
-Thus, the only way I can push myself to be better is to push myself to the point of falling(safely)
-I have fallen on gear upward of 8 times
-I have only had one piece pop(and my analysis of the placement had been that it was purely psychological pro)
-It was on the yellow spur crux pitch, I was dumb, and strayed away from the bolt ladder up the line to the left where I saw a bolt maybe 15 feet up with a nut at about waist height and the piton about 10 feet below that. My feet skidded off and the nut popped out of some silly horizontal placement and the piton stopped me 25 feet lower. weeeee
-I almost got benighted that same day after trying to figure out how to bail off the yellow spur
-I came back the next day and went the right way, and sent the sucker:)
-I love rock climbing
-I have left a lot of blood on the rock(wearing expensive climbing pants just seems silly when my shorts do the trick just as well)
-I have climbed out of the state once(moab)
-I have met a lot of awesome, nice rock climbers
-I have met a lot of not-so-nice rock climbers
-My partner almost killed Jim Erickson once with a baseball sized rock(sorry :O)
-I've almost been hit by a fair-sized rock
-I've fallen on 5.6, flashed 5.11 and couldn't even get up 5.10a
-I've made some mistakes which if murphy's law had come through I may not be able to post again on mountain project, ever.
-I'm still alive
-I wouldn't trade a second of the time spent rock climbing for anything.

Overall i've discovered rock climbing is a sport in which achievement cannot be measured by numbers, only by how much you enjoy your time in the outdoors with good friends, when you should instead be studying for that next dynamics test.

What are your thoughts on the past year of rock climbing, or your overall rock climbing experiences?

Phil Lauffen wrote: What are your thoughts on the past year of rock climbing, or your overall rock climbing experiences?

I love climbing, but I get somewhat disinterested, and bored if I do the same activity over, and over. In order to keep my interest in any one particular thing in my life, I feel a need to throw in some spice intermittently. This past year or so, in addition to trad climbing in Red Rock, J-Tree, in Tahquitz, and in the Wind River range, I've mostly enjoyed a pretty intensive, and extensive exploration of the Mojave desert, and was truly thrilled with the many backcountry challenges we faced. At times, I've found that digging the truck out of the sand, and dirt can be just as fun as a climbing epic for me, seriously. Caves, historical sites/roads, and mine shafts were also exciting to explore this past year. Driving on long stretches of lonely desert roads in the backcountry with good company, has always been a favorite activity of mine, and we covered quite a bit of ground in the past year; but for the most part, I hardly ever stop thinking about climbing, as it's a very special sport, but if I climb too consistently it starts to feel like a job, and then I tend to pull away from it. I like to mix up climbing with skiing, fishing, boogie boarding, traveling, gardening, exploring, spending quality time hiking, and hanging out with my non-climbing friends, and learning new stuff like snowboarding this past season, and so on.

If I take too long of a break from climbing (like missing a weekend), I crave it like a mother Fu**er! Trad climbing pretty much is the only sport that can get me totally in the zone; blocking out any stressors in my life. I need that relief every now, and then. A good climbing epic, uh, I mean adventure, really clears my head. : )

Great post. I can relate.

Last year about this time I was at a point in my life where I was trying to reestablish who I was. Problem was I wasn't really sure. I, sadly, didn't know what I enjoyed doing for myself. So, I took up knitting.... a washcloth (sort of) and a half later I gave up on that.

I had always wanted to try climbing, so I headed by myself to the climbing gym. I loved it! I didn't know anyone who climbed, so I was a gym rat for about a month. I eventually met some people to get outside with... and I was addicted.

It has been truly life altering. I found something that I am really passionate about! I also seemed to have, at least some, natural ability for it.

Climbing offers me peace, satisfaction, a sense of accomplishment, relationships and memories that I will treasure always, endless possibilities and goals to achieve. It has also dished up a healthy dose of fear, frustration, physical pain, loss, and guilt. I value each of these, for you can't experience true joy without knowing pain. So...Bring on the OW's!? ; )

Gotta say Im not as excited about climbing as you Phil. I certianly remember when I was as stoked back in the early 90s Love to hear hear about folks just being plain excited about climbing instead of guarding their egos. Maybe I take climbing for granted now but I cant imagine life where it is not an option. I have no desire to keep climbing for the sake of numbers. Highlights in the last year include developing an area in Oregon. Bolting and cleaning several 100' plus aretes and cracks with my good friend Elmo. This development was a whole lot of hard and dirty work but very rewarding and got us both in shape. We were able to finally complete a project of ours called K9 Shanghai a three pitch climb with some very difficult climbing. The first pitch took me four times to redpoint without whipping onto small cams. I really dont enjoy projecting climbs but Im glad I kept trying this one. The feeling of getting to the anchors was wonderful. Also I am glad to have moved to Logan, Utah where I am surrounded by good rock in every direction. Finally got a weekend at City of Rocks without being chased away by bad weather. The next weekend spent a day on the wonderful stone of Little Cottonwood Canyon with a new friend. We ended up collecting the gear of a guy who dislocated his shoulder on Gordons direct. A fantastic climb I didnt think I could follow clean but did!
Aimee if you want a taste of OW try the third pitch of Green A. I was scared and wanted to puke but Im glad I did it. Climbing is so strange in that way!!!
R

... first tick on mountain project was exactly 1 year ago. I don't know the first day I actually first tied into the sharp end...within a fewdays of that I'm sure....I've been bouldering at the spot for about the past two years...I was first introduced to ...I worked until I could purchase a dozen draws...The first time I ever lead a climb was my second climb... read The Freedom of the Hills about three times...my trad rack(2 hexes, 2 cams, a set of nuts and 3 tri-cams) -...I get antsy if I don't climb 3 or 4 times a week...people that have had more experience than me 3 times...have led probably 95 percent of all pitches...I have fallen on gear upward of 8 times -I have only had one piece pop...maybe 15 feet up...the piton about 10 feet below that...the piton stopped me 25 feet lower...climbed out of the state once...fallen on 5.6, flashed 5.11 and couldn't even get up 5.10a

Overall i've discovered rock climbing is a sport in which achievement cannot be measured by numbers...

Really?

I started climbing last March and also became completely addicted. I had been in the climbing gym a couple of times and it was ok, but my first time outside I tried tying into the sharp end and leading(pathetically) and became obsessed with climbing. It was all sport for a few months until I quit my job and started roadtripping. Did my first trad lead in June in the city of rocks. Bought a Westfalia Camper Van and roadtripped more. I love big multi pitch trad climbing but also enjoy pushing myself on sport. I think doing both keeps it interesting for me. I got my AMGA SPI certification in November and am taking my WFR this August. I would eventually like to take the Rock Instructor course and guide a bit parttime. I really enjoy sharing the sport I love with other people.

Unfortunately, I am working again(way too much), but frequently daydream of roadtripping from crag to crag in the westy.

Not only do I love the sport, it has led me to a lot of cool places and have made a ton of really good friends.

Climb on!

Doug

Wonderful, engaging post, Phil. Besides enjoying your intensity, I was a bit jealous of your rapid progress. But remembering my own learning curve, from first tying in at 14, to things I got on a year or two later, well, that had some big jumps too.

I guess youth is the time for accelerating exploration. But there's no reason middle age has to be season of coasting. Thanks for the starry eyed kick in the seat.

Thanks Reed! I don't think I realized that had an OW section. I'll add it to my list : ) I really want to do Certain Death!

Drift...sorry

Aimee Bates wrote: Drift...sorry

Drift rocks!

Aimee Bates wrote:Thanks Reed! I don't think I realized that had an OW section. I'll add it to my list : ) I really want to do Certain Death! Drift...sorry

Aimee, you can drift whenever you want. It adds spice, girl! ; )

Shawn Mitchell wrote: Drift rocks!

Yep, that's our M.O.

Will S wrote: ... first tick on mountain project was exactly 1 year ago. I don't know the first day I actually first tied into the sharp end...within a fewdays of that I'm sure....I've been bouldering at the spot for about the past two years...I was first introduced to ...I worked until I could purchase a dozen draws...The first time I ever lead a climb was my second climb... read The Freedom of the Hills about three times...my trad rack(2 hexes, 2 cams, a set of nuts and 3 tri-cams) -...I get antsy if I don't climb 3 or 4 times a week...people that have had more experience than me 3 times...have led probably 95 percent of all pitches...I have fallen on gear upward of 8 times -I have only had one piece pop...maybe 15 feet up...the piton about 10 feet below that...the piton stopped me 25 feet lower...climbed out of the state once...fallen on 5.6, flashed 5.11 and couldn't even get up 5.10a Overall i've discovered rock climbing is a sport in which achievement cannot be measured by numbers... Really?

Come on was that really needed??

Phil awesome post Im glad to hear how excited you are. Ive only been climbing about 6 months longer then you and Im right there with you. Its the greatest thing to ever happen to me and I hope this excitment stays with me forever!

Phil Lauffen wrote:Anyways, don't really know what this thread about, but I just wanted to share my experiences so far.--- What are your thoughts on the past year of rock climbing, or your overall rock climbing experiences?

Nice post Phil, thanks for sharing. The occasional reminder to remember why we started climbing in the first place is great.

Ive been climbing for about 16yrs now, and each and every climb means as much now as those first one's. The excitment I had when I placed my first cam or sent some hard(for me) sport is still the same now as it was then. And IMHO, I think thats so important and whats its all about. Your right- it isnt about numbers, its about enjoyment. Nevermind Will S's syninicism, it is about what it means and what is fun to each individual. Individuality- the beauty of our craft.

I used to climb 4-5 days a week. Roadtrip every other weekend. Climb fearless and w/o worry. Now, even though family, kids, jobs and life and thrown speed bumps and changed that a wee bit- the drive to be my own dirtbag, weekend warrior climber has never left my soul. It will drive me till I can climb no more. With life a bit settled and the kids older, getting back in the groove has never felt better. Back to 2-3days a week has climbing NEEDS fullfilled and the stress it relieves lower. SO wether on that classic 5.7 trade route or pushing my skills on harder alpine, trad or sport- Im find the same contentment from it all. My highlights-

- the knowledge Ive gained fron climbing, other climbers, road trips, falls, summits and rescue's is invaluble and irreplaceable
-the beauty Ive seen will keep a smile on my face even on the bleakest of days in the "real" world
- my first big fall, a 35footer on sport, changed me and made me a better climber
-the older I get, the better I climb
-being part of a life saving rescue forever changed my outlook and approach towards our sport. An experience I cherish that happenend and hope i never have too repeat
-roadtrips- Everywhere(tons left too) in CO., SLC and all over UT, Moab, IC, Castle Valley, Red Rocks, Zion, J Tree, The Black, El Portrero(12pitch sport!), Hueco Tanks, Sedona n all over AZ, all over NM, high peaks like Petit, Kit Carson, Vestal, Ellingwoods, many more and the many small crags and cool small palces Ive been are memories I will cherish every minute of evry day and only hope to grow in the future
-realizing doing it the way(within standards and guidelines) that works for me is the best and only way to do it
-complacency can be futile
-knowing to NEVER forego safety for ANYTHING
-climbing lingo is truly our "own" language and Im glad I speak it
-loving Im a climber and knowing I wouldnt trade that for anything
-my first multi-pitch with my son and the one with my love
and last but not least
-all the great people Ive met and shared time, even if only short, with along the way. Climbers and our community represent some of the best there is out there!

So, all you climbers out there, remeber the passion of climbing and all it has brought into your life. Even if the"real" world is slowing you down- climbing is always there for a lift- even if you only climb 5.6 once per Mo. A climber is a climber, no matter the type/level you do- and once a climber, always a climber.

Have fun out there!!! Climb hard, Climb safe.

Will S wrote: ... first tick on mountain project was exactly 1 year ago. I don't know the first day I actually first tied into the sharp end...within a fewdays of that I'm sure....I've been bouldering at the spot for about the past two years...I was first introduced to ...I worked until I could purchase a dozen draws...The first time I ever lead a climb was my second climb... read The Freedom of the Hills about three times...my trad rack(2 hexes, 2 cams, a set of nuts and 3 tri-cams) -...I get antsy if I don't climb 3 or 4 times a week...people that have had more experience than me 3 times...have led probably 95 percent of all pitches...I have fallen on gear upward of 8 times -I have only had one piece pop...maybe 15 feet up...the piton about 10 feet below that...the piton stopped me 25 feet lower...climbed out of the state once...fallen on 5.6, flashed 5.11 and couldn't even get up 5.10a Overall i've discovered rock climbing is a sport in which achievement cannot be measured by numbers... Really?

I guess the point I was trying to make was that numbers didn't matter in the end, only that I spend all that time doing what I love... guess that wasn't clear. The numbers in the paragraphs above make it interesting for the reader.

I think Will S might have been a little tongue-in-cheek.

Phil, it is really great to see your progress and enthusiasm in your first year of climbing. Keep the fire burning.

As for me, the last year of climbing was one of the most fun I can remember in my 35 years of climbing. Mostly because of the excellent posse I climb with and some new additions including my most valued partner, the best one I have ever had.

I can't wait to see what's around the next corner.

Shane Neal wrote: An experience I cherish that happenend and hope i never have too repeat... Kit Carson...

I once found some sunglasses up there.

"when you should instead be studying for that next dynamics test."

phil lauffen

"If you haven't been able to tell by now, I'm an engineer and I keep a log of all the climbs I've ever done"

dave holliday

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I starting to see a pattern

Good to see the progression Phil and how excited you are. I can't wait to see what I have accomplished by this november which will mark my 1 year in the sport....tune in next time folks haha

Christian wrote:I starting to see a pattern

You'd be surprised how many climbers are engineers, engineering students, or other highly technical/problem-solving types. It's in the nature of what we do. Granted, being an engineer isn't a pre-req for being a climber, but hopefully any climber has at least an innate concept of--if not formal training in--physics.

Justin Cantrall wrote: You'd be surprised how many climbers are engineers, engineering students, or other highly technical/problem-solving types. It's in the nature of what we do. Granted, being an engineer isn't a pre-req for being a climber, but hopefully any climber has at least an innate concept of--if not basic formal training in--physics.

My innate understanding is that gravity sucks donkey balls :) haha

no no no... you have it all wrong. Gravity does not suck; it pulls. ;)

Besides, without gravity, what fun would climbing be? Defying the forces of nature is what it's all about!

edit: but what about anti-matter? If gravitation is proportional to mass--which is a property of any matter that has density and occupies space--then wouldn't anti-matter "push" instead of pull? If we were climbing on anti-rocks, we'd be pushing towards the ground.

This is fun. :)