Longest Free routes in North America

Ill throw another moderate one onto the pile. Ultimate Link-up at Squamish at 9+. I think all combined it is 23 pitches (3 for Bottom Line,8 for Banana Peel,2 for Boomstick, and 10 for Ultimate Everything)

Granted it loses some points for being a link-up, some 3rd in between the technical sections, and being mostly a slab, but definitely nice to have approachable long free climbs you can do in 6 hours.

Closer to home, the International in Glenwood Canyon is about 2000 feet although it's broken up by scrambling inbetween rock bands.

And, what about the Diamond, if you link something on the lower east face and with the Diamond I think you can hit around 2000 feet of vert. They say Notch Peak in Utah is the second tallest face in North America after El Cap but I'm not sure where they're measuring it from because the routes aren't that long.

The link up of the Pink Tornado and Gondwannaland Boogie on Mt. Wilson is longer than the Resolution Arete which is still pretty long.

The Cordes/Woods route on N. Face of Siyeh in Glacier has gotta be in there somewhere.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-condon

In the photo on #3 on Combantant Southwest Bartizans is V 5.10 M4, 1400m or 4600ft

On Tiedemann #7 South Buttress Integrale (VI 5.10 A1, 1600m, Diedrich-Nelson-Ruch, 1988) received a free ascent the other year at 10+ or 11- and 1600m is over 5000ft.

Basically anything under 4000ft shouldn't count if you want the longest free route in North America. Its a different question to say longest big wall free climb.

I'll second Logical Progression (5.13 sport route) on El Gigante; it is in northern Chihuahua and is a steep 3'000 feet/30 pitches. There are other routes involving aid and choss on the main face but it is a clean line and big.

I am not sure about other large faces ( I am sure there are a ton more in Alaska that are missing from the discussion) but I believe The Salathe Wall is the longest route on El Cap at 35 pitches (el cap is a bit over 3,000ft I believe)

Timewave Zero is 23 pitches but it goes fast because it is all bolted and clean with excellent fixed belay and rappel anchors. You don't have to waste any time placing and removing gear, building anchors or re-racking. The route has been climbed in under 2 hours.

nothing to contribute but cool thread

Worth a mention is the traverse of the Trapps below the GT Ledge, "The Great Wall of China". The FA was 67 pitches for about 9,000 feet of climbing rated 5.9 R.

The routes on the north face of temple are listed as 1200m or 4000ft.

I believe the Megalodon Ridge done on Mount Goode in the cascades is around 4000ft.

Wayne also did a really long ridge on Mount Logan in the cascades.

So your local 2000ft chosspile doesn't count.

manuel rangel wrote:I'll second Logical Progression (5.13 sport route) on El Gigante; it is in northern Chihuahua and is a steep 3'000 feet/30 pitches. There are other routes involving aid and choss on the main face but it is a clean line and big.

I'll 3rd the El Gigante Logical Progression.

First you said :

SketchE wrote: I believe the Megalodon Ridge done on Mount Goode in the cascades is around 4000ft. Wayne also did a really long ridge on Mount Logan in the cascades.

Then you said:

"So your local 2000ft chosspile doesn't count."

So my question:

Is this a battle of who's chosspile is better(or longer)?

josh

longer that was what the thread is all about.

And I have been naming all the routes 4000ft or longer that I can think of not necessarily local. There just seems to be alot of routes from mentioned in 2000ft range close to people base areas, and these routes aren't long in the grand scheme of things...

SketchE wrote:longer that was what the thread is all about. And I have been naming all the routes 4000ft or longer that I can think of not necessarily local. There just seems to be alot of routes from mentioned in 2000ft range close to people base areas, and these routes aren't long in the grand scheme of things...

.....forget it.

....I thought it was funny and ironic.

josh